SlowDriver

After I reinstalled my tranny I noticed that my stock driveshaft lengths are wierd. I'm sure the lengths of the front and rear drive shaft pieces are the same.

The front drive shaft is fully contracted, while the rear driveshaft is about half extended.

I'm sure I put the truck back together right, but I didn't notice this before. The truck does seem to drive ok.

Does this sound right?

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

Umm...

Isn't it clear that the distance from the tranny to the front diff is a LOT shorter than the distance from the tranny to the rear diff??

Assuming you're right & the shaft pieces are all the same (I think that's true), there's your answer!

Dean

SlowDriver

Dean,

Yes, but I wanted to be sure this is right, and that I didn't screw something up. This also means that there's not nearly as much structural support on the rear drive shafts as there are in the front.

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

your right. thats how it is suppose to be

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah...my rear center twisted apart when I dropped in a .21. The spline grooves were twisted like threads on a screw!!!

So if you're upgrading the engine...plan on getting steel centers at the same time!

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

really. what 21 you using? been thinking about [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6033397645&fromMakeTrack=true]getting these[/link] he also has some titanium that are cup design. i have only sheard the 4 screws in the diff cup. but that was only me 2nd run too

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

meh...those look kinda lame. Could be wrong, but they just did the 'ball' design of the stockers in metal. And SLIDERS??? Who knows what the design is like 'inside'...I'm guessing steel sliding within steel will get crunked up rather quickly. They're gimicky.

And REAL CVDs can be rebuilt if/when the little parts (pins, barrells) wear out.

Stick w/a proven name (and design!!) so you can get parts down the road. I made a mistake by buying Team BlueStar shocks...the shocks are OK, but when I bent 2 shafts, I couldn't find replacements (they're slightly wider than most of 'em)

THESE are the best (I assume you have a stock chassis), and at $52, including cups, you'd be silly to spend $50 on the others: http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...re/13512T.html

These are a good option as well, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDXN8&P=7

..but I'd go UE...that $52 price is a lot less than it used to be!

Dean

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

what i had thought was to put a little lube in the sliders. as for parts your right. but I don't like the idea of knowing a part has weak parts that will have to be replaced at intervals. For my axels i got the ones from Team Blue Star

Deandome

My Feedback: (1)

EVERY CVD of any status has rebuild kits (even Dynamite/XTM). They throw pins when the 'barrel's' set screw loosens...the pins/barrels wear out. It's about $5 per pair for these tiny parts in the rebuild kits. We're not talking 'regular intervals'...it's a crap shoot, but it's part of the game. These parts are the reason CVDs are CVDs...not dogbones!!!!

You'll find out soon w/your TBS ones, and I think you'll kinda regret going that way when it happens. They probby came assembled, hopefully, WELL assembled, but I can guarantee you, they are NOT as good/strong as UE or MIP...THOSE CVDs need/offer rebuild kits, and you'll be *****ing when you find you can't rebuild yours.

I'm not being a deek...that's just the way it is. I HAVE TBS shocks...well, 6 of 'em as I had to replace 2 when I bent some shafts.

Use ebay to find good prices on name brand stuff (like thru RC Boyz!)...but stay away from things that ONLY exist there. There's a reason that they're not marketed via retailers/e-tailers...it's cuz they can get away with offering ZERO support. And like I said, UE Ti centers are only 3 friggen dollars more than those funky sliders...there's no question on which is a better product AND value!!!!

Dean

LJ NITRO

My Feedback: (2)

i understand your point. and yes i understand getting a product with support and repair avalibility. i just don't like the idea of knowing the parts will break. i would rather buy a part advertised to be better (doing the research before purchase), and that does not have little parts to replace. of course if they bend or break i will go with a different axel but in the mean time i will not baby them so i can still have fun and give my full opinion later on to some one in need