xxx123

Folks,

I know the yopic has been covered many tims. But, basically, I need to replace the spur every single time when I raced and jumped. I considered I am a very safe and conservative drive.

Any ideas on how to improve it? I am thinking to install a 3 point roll cage and see if it will help? They are not chaeap, runing around 40 bucks. Its a 3 point roll cage, its not the chrom cage. What do you think?

On the other hand, I can hardly believe the flex from the chassie will create the proble? I tried to twist it by hand, not ever moved a little? Please help me understand this physics?

PS: All screws are tighted, motor mounted and mesh is excellent, ckecked b4 race. I guess this may be the reson why buggy and truggy have steel spur?

Cheers.....

mrjerryk

Check the gap between the spur and the clutch. Use the paper method to do it.

stovepipe

Try going with a steel spur gear and again make sure you do the paper deal.

tommythecat

My Feedback: (2)

Check your engine mount for cracks, make sure it is properly aligned with the spur, and tightened solidly to the chassis.

Also check to be sure the tranny is properly secured to the chassis.

Make sure you properly adjust your slipper clutch.

Do not land from big air heavy on the throttle.

Remember, when setting the gap between the the clutch bell and spur gear, the idea is to have them meshed as tight as they can get without binding. You want them as close to eachother as possible without causing too much friction when they mesh. Basically, I just adjust by hand with the mount bolts just 1/2 turn out from tight, sliding thge engine in a little at a time, until it is in so far that the spur gear does not spin freely because of it binding with the clutchbell, then I pull it out a little at a time until it spins freely again, check to make sure the eingine is squared up with the spur, then tighten the mounts. The paper trick is a good start for establishing the proper spur/cb gap.

gkcontra

It could be chassis flex as you hinted to in your 1st post. I'm not a big proponent of aluminum everything, especially if racing, but aluminum chassis braces and if you are running a Pro .15/2.5 MAXX you may want to consider a thicker main chassis as well.