starting point
#2
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RE: starting point
If I remember correctly the HSN is 4 turns out, the LSN is flush with the end of the slide and the idle screw is a 1-2 mm gap
You can always check on the Traxxas website for any settings or directions/instructions you may need.
You can always check on the Traxxas website for any settings or directions/instructions you may need.
#3
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RE: starting point
I agree with above reply. I always go to manufacturer specifications If it is something I am not familiar with. You must start there first. Also make sure you are getting fuel through the carb. And of course spark!
make sure the glow plug is good. Good luck!
make sure the glow plug is good. Good luck!
#4
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RE: starting point
thanx everyone. brought it too factory specs i can get it to start but just won't stay running long. used truck, very very very dirty!!! i'm taking it all apart and cleaning it up, the carbs pretty gummy so i think that may be one of the problems too. finding more broken stuff as i dig further into it too. stripped wheel nut i still haven't gotten off cause someone ran off with all my vise grips. Broken moter mount. broken cooling fin. no front halfshafts. turnbucke on one of the servos missing. screw that holds steering linkage is is a sheet metal screw lol. and i'm still digging into it!!!! oh well, what do u expect for a hundred bucks i guess huh? maybe since i'm tearing it all apart i may have to upgrade some too. wish me luck on my getting my first nitro up an runnin..
#5
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RE: starting point
Well, if u think the carb is somehow gummed up, carefully unscrew it from where it sits in the base of the engine, being careful not to lose the o-ring that sits under the carb, then, carefully take out the high speed needle screw and low speed needle screw, get some denatured alcohol, and let it soak in it for awhile. Then dry it off and re-assemble it. And at that point, hopefully that will help de-gum the carb and get rid of all the gunk that maybe inside the carb from use of the previous owner. Good luck with it man!!! [8D]
#6
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RE: starting point
Matt, May be nitpicking here but, the carb does not unscrew from the engine. There is a pinch bolt that needs to be loosened and freed up and then the carb just pulls out. Didn't want to see somebody twisting and twisting the carb thinking that would remove it when it would actually probably cause damage.
#7
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RE: starting point
ORIGINAL: DaveG55
Matt, May be nitpicking here but, the carb does not unscrew from the engine. There is a pinch bolt that needs to be loosened and freed up and then the carb just pulls out. Didn't want to see somebody twisting and twisting the carb thinking that would remove it when it would actually probably cause damage.
Matt, May be nitpicking here but, the carb does not unscrew from the engine. There is a pinch bolt that needs to be loosened and freed up and then the carb just pulls out. Didn't want to see somebody twisting and twisting the carb thinking that would remove it when it would actually probably cause damage.
#8
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RE: starting point
cool cool, got my engine out, spayed the whole thing down with brake cleaner and took a toothbrush (not mine) after it. didn't bring up the right socket for the carb so gotta go back to the garage to get that but have a quick question. when I rotate the engine i gets hard to turn when aproaching tdc and the piston seems to "click" into place at tdc then its hard to get it out of tdc. not really hard, i don't have to force it or anything. is that normal?
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RE: starting point
Perfectly normal and desirable. It means that you have "pinch". Pinch is where the piston and sleeve fit togeather tightly and is what allows compression to happen (these little motors don't have rings like a bigger engine does). You should be able to feel the pinch even with the glow plug out. With the GP in what you feel is a combination of pinch and compression. It's best to store the engine with the piston at bdc after running it in order to preserve that pinch.