sb13

My Feedback: (52)

There are 3 things I'm in the need of for my new Picco Red Dot.

#1- Air Filter, is there one I should buy or use the stock 2 stage? I assume there must be a better one for the Picco.

#2- Pipe and header, I'd like one that mounts the same as the stock one if possible. I have the THS set up on my OS but it just makes sense that there has to be something better for a true big block that mounts without problems or do I need to go with a side mount but from what I hear they are not a good fit.

#3- Clutch, although the stock clutch works I figure there must be something better for the big torque the Picco puts out.

Thanks for your input and help. I'd like to get the perfect set up and I need to start ordering parts asap so I'm ready for the install when the motor arrives.

I'm not worried about the money end of it so much so I'll pay what it costs to have the very best set up.

matts6887

I would use the stock 2-stage filter for a air filter, however, u can go to a motor-saver filter if u think it might help. But I think its almost the same size as the 2-stage filter. For the pipe, have u thought about the THS racing pipe?; or have u already got that one? The reason I ask is because that is suppose to be a good pipe...but then there is also the vantage racing pipe as well; as for which one will fit the same as the stock pipe; I'm not totally 100% sure about that one there. For the clutch setup, I would definitely say go for a 3-shoe 3-pin setup like I just got for my 3.3. Now I am not sure what the one I got is like because I haven't had a chance to run it yet. And im thinking most people might frown on this one, but I decided to give it a shot and I hope I didn't just waste $19 on it. as its a 3-shoe, 3-pin setup from INTEGY, which u could consider, but there are others out there. Either way, good luck with whatever u decide....[8D][8D]

RCCanuck

the stock air filter is actually better than most aftermarket ones......As I said in your other thread your best bet is the OS header that is made for the 3.3 or the 18tm or 21tm......pipe is a toss up between the Traxxas resonator and the THS for the stock location. If you want to run a side pipe which will be the best performance go with the JP3....Stick with the stock setup for clutch until you are not happy with it anymore.....I actually prefer it over the 3 pin design....Like I said your bearings are key to a proper working clutch especially a TRX clutch....On a side note: the perfect setup comes from trying many setups until you find the one that is right for you.....I say have fun with it...If something breaks,,,, upgrade it......

NitroVenom

The best way to get the power out of your motor is to get a side pipe. The only problem is you have to cut out the body. A LOT to get it to fit over it. That is up to you if you want to do that though.

For the clutch I would get either and MIP 2 shoe clutch set or find a good pair of alluminum. If you REALLY want to spend some money, you could buy a fiorino clutch setup for around $70.

newgst

I will second the Mip Clutch kit. Longer laster shoes and higher quality spring.

If you already have the Ths pipe that is probably your best bet for rear exhaust unless you are going to go side pipe which of course you will want to use the JP pipes

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

Ok so the THS pipe will be fine with the big block so I'll keep that along with the THS header. I'll look at the fiorino clutch and keep my 2 stage air filter. So I'm down to choosing a clutch if I do anything different with it. The side pipe would be nice but I don't want to hack up the body becouse I'd hate to have a pipe off the side that might get hit and also I want to buy a nice crowd pleaser body that is already painted by one of those guys who make them look wicked.

dkastil

i have a motor saver it fits the picco and clears the spur by a hair .i have a 5340x platinum header that i run 2 springs the picco port is fitted for a stock trx with the bolts but you dont want to bolt your header to the block that is asking for trubble and i run a vantage pipe with that header and i also have a trinity that comes with its own header witch is nice and verry loud . The clutch i run is a mip pad with a 19t rrp clutch bell and i sugest getting a 36t intigy spur this will give you alot more top end and you will still have more low end because the picco is a beast .

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

Thanks for the tips. The THS header is held on by springs too so I should be good with my complete THS set up unless it's not good for the big block. People are saying they use it and it's fine?? Mine is a low to mid range pipe though so I might want to upgrade to a top end pipe with the Picco. I will also change the gearing too, are you running a steel spur gear?

dkastil

yes i have a 34t and 36t integy steel sput a 38t rrp steel spur and a 17t and 19t rrp hardend steel clutch bells for break in i am keeping the platinum close 40 43 ratio and teh 36t spur and 17t clutch bell for break in i will run the 36 /19 or 34/19 after break in . I have a rrp wide 43t 38 t steel wide ratio gear kit #rrp8007 for speed . i found it for 75 bucks on ebay steel gears are a bit heavy but they are suported by berrings and with the big block power it is the way to go so you never have issues with gears .

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

Does'nt it concern you that if something was to go it might be more costly than just a plastic spur? Just wondering. I have plastic gears in my tranny so I'd rather eat a spur gear then the next weakest link. Maybe there are things I need to do to prepare it for the big block, if so tell me what you think?

matts6887

Well, keep this in mind dkastil; just because u have steel gears, doesn't guarantee that u won't have any issues; because all sorts of interesting things can happen when running steel bells and the like; now I am not saying that something will happen, however, it CAN happen and has been known to on occasion....

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

Ok I've got my set up now. I ordered, and don't cringe, an Intregy 36 tooth spur gear. It's plastic but yet made of a meterial a little stronger than the stock Traxxas gears. I've ordered a 19 tooth cluth bell, heck I forget the brand but it is hardened gears, I'm gearing it more toward top end by not a ton. I like low end but the Picco will give me plenty of that and my other set up probably would have been geared way to low for the Picco which was 15/38. I'm using my existing THS header and pipe. If anyone thinks that is going to choke my Picco let me know becouse I want the right pipe but I want a rear, not side mount. I'm taking out my THS rear drive CVD and using the stock plastic one there, the rest both center front and drives to the wheels are all THS. I want a plastic spur and the rear plastic drive shaft as insurance. If something is to give I'm purposely choosing the areas to give that are easy to change and don't cost alot to replace. Smart choice I think. So there it is, my new set up when the Picco Red Dot arrives. Oh yeah, I also ordered the MIP clutch shoes and spring too. I'll hope for the best. the only real concern I have is am I restricting the Picco using the THS? Is it in fact ok for a big block engine. Worked fine on my mid block OS TM .21. I'm also sticking with my Traxxas 2 stage air filter.

dkastil

no it doesnt i have ran alot of nitro cars ,that is a silly question think about the drivetrain lets start at the wheel you have the nut and hub then the universial or cvd diff then center universialor cvd the outdrive the 2 speed then spur then the clutch bell and engine what is the more time part to deal with BAM the 2 speed trannie id rather have a 2 buck universial or cvd input or out put break one setscrew and you have a new one on ,if you blow a gear in the trannie you have to take it out of the truck ri pit apart replace the parts and clean the gear pieces out . I run all rrp gears in all my trucks and i have zero issues.. you guys talking about issues running rrp gears lol i rather the that over issues using plastic rofl ,trannies are plastic because it is cheep that is it and ok for a stock .93 hp 3.3 not a 2.7 hp monster and if you jump or crash ever you will never rip any teeth off on impact have i missed something ,you know there is a slipper on the spur and if you run it tight it is safer with steel .

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

I really don't find it to be a silly question at all. I think we are thinking the same way only you're allowing certain parts to break if that was to happen and I'm allowing another part to be the weak link in the system. I'd personally rather replace a spur gear myself. Now, the tranny I agree that I want it to hold up. When my rear tire locked up at high speed a few days ago it took out my tranny. I wish I had steel gears in it so something else would have gave instead of it. In fact I might go ahead and add the steel gears to the tranny but keep a plastic spur along with the rear drive shaft. Maybe I'm wrong but I believe we are thinking the same but not doing it the same. If the slipper is set properly it should do just that, slip no doubt about it. What do you do with your diffs if anything? I've never been inside a diff so I really no nothing about them. I'm not trying to get in to an argueing match here but instead just trying to learn the best way of doing things and set it up with a "weak" link somewhere in the drive train that will give first and be an easy fix if it was to ever happen and we know it probably will.

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

Ok, I'm looking at the Robinson tranny gear sets. There is a wide ratio and the standard. I've heard of the Traxxas close ratio sets but I don't believe I've seen the wide ratio before. So my question is this, does the standard set just replace my existing set up and nothing changes and the wide ratio set does what? Is it going to change gears later with this set or sooner? I would think later from the sounds of it but I really don't know alot about the gearing set ups for the tranny. Which would be prefered for general use and not racing if thats a question that can be answered without being 100% based on what each person prefers which I'm sure it is.

matts6887

I have to side with and agree with Scott on this one. I too would much rather replace a spur gear, than something else because a spur gear is one of the easiest things to replace on the truck. As for the trans gears, well, I could possibly see the need for steel trans gears, but if u don't have to go to the expense and time of putting them in, then why bother? Ive heard of countless other people say they have used a big block with stock plastic trans gears and the trans help up completely fine....just my thoughts here on the "wonderful" subject

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

Yeah Matt I agree abot the tranny but I might install a set but that would be about it as far as metal goes along with what I already have like the CVD's. Not for sure yet. I like the post about me posting alot too, lol show some pics he says. I have and they look nice although my Revo is far from the best upgraded truck and I'm not claiming that it is. darn man, can't we just show what we have and BS here on the forums or is this a competition or something?? Just funny to me.

matts6887

Yeap I hear ya on the competition and the "Funny" part; it is funny to watch how some people will make it kinda seem like its a competition out of the whole thing, when one person is "merely" trying to point out something simple; I, of course will not name names or point fingers because that would be.....well.....just plain "WRONG" lol and uncool to do that....but I am sure those people or persons know who they are and thats all I will say at this point.....

dkastil

serious i dont want to rip on you guys but think about it break the dravetrain down part by part i dont care if you get rrp or not .I have run cars since i was 10 years old i am 35 now your week link idiea is not smart with a tranie and drivetrain . other parts of your car it does like if you were to run aluminum a arms you want to run a plastic pivit so it will snap before you bend a a arm in a crash but i am 110% agnst having week points in the trannie if a rock stopped your tire with all steel the slipper would slip and nothing would break i got barbed wire wrapped around my cvd and wedged between the spur and clutch bell ,labor day at high speed and nothing broke the same day a big rock got stuck in the dish of the wheel and jammed agn no break . do what you want but i am serious think and break down your car and its functions one by one and dont take the advice of arm chair tech's without you your self thinking it threw .

sb13

My Feedback: (52)

Well thanks for the input. I am considering building the tranny with metal gears. It's not a bad choice as far as the tranny goes.

dkastil

i am off to run my picco now .

NitroVenom

Ok the reason the spurs are plastic is so there is a weak point in the system. The weak point in the system is broken first because its cheap and easy to fix(the spur only breaks due to adjusting the slipper wrong or setting the gear mesh wrong). If you have a metal spur, and that doesn't break under load, it will take out the next peice of the drivetrain out, which oddly enough is the clutch bell(seen it happen a few times). If you put metal gears in the trany, you'll not only weigh the truck down, but you'll get less performance from it. The lighter your truck is the better. Also, if the tranny is under load, and doesn't break at the weak points, you'll end up bending and breakin axles or diffs.

I'm against metal gears in the tranny, mostly because I race every once in a while but also because its not needed. I have had my Revo for 4 years and I have gone through about 4 motors. Those 4 motors have seen the same tranny and I have only broken the idler gear once(Kept giving it gas while I was stuck on a rock).

I'll come back on later to explain the diffrent gear ratio's for the tranny and what to do with the diffs.

-Mike

dkastil

armchair mechanics to the rescue , i bet you have a reson to not wear a rubber when you hook up with a skank . I will take the extra 0z and the small loss in the takeoff .I run outlaw over powerd cars that can not race i only hit the tracks on practice days my st is a xxxnt with a .18 tz with all rrp gears except for the comp gear ae 24 t clutch bell and losi kevlar spur for what i loose from weight i make up in power buggies cant catch my small xxxnt and my revo picco .26 red dot with all rrp except for the intigy spur is so freaking fast and bomb proof the 2.7 hp and steel gears are the way to go, they made the car for a .93 hp mill

rcnitrohead

No one cares about your personal experiences. What mike said was entirely of truth and if you have a problem with intellectual reasoning behind the physics that affect certain parts in our vehicles, then you have no place here. Metal spurs are extremely unnecessary in most of our situations, almost all spur gear demise is due to melting from an overheated CB or an improperly meshed spur. Now of course a metal spur increases rotating mass, but I doubt its enough to notice any difference and should be disregarded unless you are looking for the lightest setup possible. Whether you like it or not, the spur exists to protect the tranny and be the first point of failure in the occurrence of a breakage, it is the "weak point" and its really sad that a 35 year old cant see the reasoning behind that, its not even being an armchair engineer, its pure logic. If you didnt need a weak point, you would have direct drive into the tranny and then you would be enjoying yourself...

Tom.

dkastil

nitro if you make a all steel trannie the slipper is the weak point ,do you not get the point when you drop a way bigger motor you have build your car up with cvds and steel gears and know how to use your slipper and adjust your gear mesh if that is to much for you i am sorry , bash and jump you for shure want steel ......... and as for the plastic spur protecting your trannie who was saying go steel spur and keep th e plastic trannie i am 100% steel the only part of my drivetrain that is week is the universials and they are plastic and 2 bucks and take 1 set screw to replace witch i pointed out when i broke down the drivetrain , keep your setup great i run what i run . and below is a ling to the week link in my drivetrain a plastic halfshaft and yokes
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMJG9&P=M


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMHW5&P=FR



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