.15 rebuild
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.15 rebuild
ok so my tmaxx got put in a box like 8 yrs ago when i got tired of trying to tune it. well i just pulled it out again and found that it needs a few parts like a connecting rod and seal. anyway are there any tricks that i should do to this thing while ive got it apart? anything to seal it better, make it run better, maybe even a little faster, that kinda thing. thanks!
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RE: .15 rebuild
the only trick you need to know about is...................................
the traxxas engine exchange program!!!!!!
i have the pro.15 t maxx ,the engine sucks!!!!
the 2.5 or 3.3 engines are over twice as good .
the cost is under a hundred dollars. that would barly
cover the cost to rebuild the pro.15 by the time you do it properly.
e.i.,new crankshaft bearings,new crankshaft,new piston and new sleeve,new con rod,
and possibly a new carb, maybe new pull start or one way bearing.
add's up in a hurry, do your self a favor, and just get a 2.5 or something else
trust me, save your self a head ache!!!!!!!!
the traxxas engine exchange program!!!!!!
i have the pro.15 t maxx ,the engine sucks!!!!
the 2.5 or 3.3 engines are over twice as good .
the cost is under a hundred dollars. that would barly
cover the cost to rebuild the pro.15 by the time you do it properly.
e.i.,new crankshaft bearings,new crankshaft,new piston and new sleeve,new con rod,
and possibly a new carb, maybe new pull start or one way bearing.
add's up in a hurry, do your self a favor, and just get a 2.5 or something else
trust me, save your self a head ache!!!!!!!!
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RE: .15 rebuild
you have to change a lot more to go to a 2.5 or 3.3, if you are going to go to something else get the OS .18 CV RX S, they are like $130 right now but go on sale for $100 fairly regulairly, and are a direct bolt in for a pro .15. more reliable and about the power of a 2.5 and won't destroy the stock drivetrain near as fast as a 3.3
if it's been sitting that long, the bearings on the pro .15 go out easy, if you have the crank out and either the front or rear bearing are chunky when turned with your finger, replace them! or at least rinse them out with WD 40 or something very thoroughly and look to be sure there is no pitting on the bearing surface.
if it's been sitting that long, the bearings on the pro .15 go out easy, if you have the crank out and either the front or rear bearing are chunky when turned with your finger, replace them! or at least rinse them out with WD 40 or something very thoroughly and look to be sure there is no pitting on the bearing surface.
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RE: .15 rebuild
well when i parked this thing all those years ago the only reason i didnt rebuild it was that nobody had a con rod in stock. i already bought all the bearings piston/sleeve and had spare one way and clutch anyway so 12 bucks for a con rod aint so bad now. just curious if there was anything i didnt know about rebuilding this thing thats all
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RE: .15 rebuild
in that case , some times you may need to put a zip tie in the the port to remove the cylinder .
you may have to heat up your block in your oven to remove the bearings.
you want to pay attention to which way the piston and sleeve come out as they are timed
I woulod use some castor oil to lube the engine in reassembly!
tighten your head bolt's in an x pattern.
there is a few things, we have no idea how much you know or dont know
so there is a few things about rebuilding an engine
there are a lot of vids on you tube about this subect as well
you may have to heat up your block in your oven to remove the bearings.
you want to pay attention to which way the piston and sleeve come out as they are timed
I woulod use some castor oil to lube the engine in reassembly!
tighten your head bolt's in an x pattern.
there is a few things, we have no idea how much you know or dont know
so there is a few things about rebuilding an engine
there are a lot of vids on you tube about this subect as well
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RE: .15 rebuild
one nice thing about the pro .15 is it has a pin in the block and a notch in the sleeve so it only goes one way. and I think with the piston the G clip goes toward the carb (replace that thing too, I think it's $2 for two of them, it's a good idea to replace). The rod on the other hand I believe is directional, I don't remember where the oil hole is on the thing but that's what it was about...
there are a few performance tricks out there, if you do a google search for "pro .15 turbo" you'll come up with a few things. I played with one once but it was kinda worn out to start with and it was like 8 years ago... one thing I do remember is rounding the corners of the rod so it's not square to make it more like the 2.5 rod, and polishing the port in the crankshaft.
there are a few performance tricks out there, if you do a google search for "pro .15 turbo" you'll come up with a few things. I played with one once but it was kinda worn out to start with and it was like 8 years ago... one thing I do remember is rounding the corners of the rod so it's not square to make it more like the 2.5 rod, and polishing the port in the crankshaft.
#7
RE: .15 rebuild
The pro.15 engine is not worth rebulding especially if it needs a con rod.
A new .15 is only $85.00 through the ERP. and it comes with a new OWB and Pull start.
A new .15 is only $85.00 through the ERP. and it comes with a new OWB and Pull start.