gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

rryman...which os engines are you using? two or four strokes and what size!

I will be using os .32 two strokes with with my proven 4-bladed wood 9x5 master airscrews
which I make myself.
I had this engine/prop combonation on my 8 lb c-160 transall. It worked excellent [sm=thumbup.gif]
Take offs were at 1/2 throt., punch almost vertical at full throt. to a cieling of 500 ft (not very scale like) and cruise at a slow scale speed at a click or two above 1/4 throt.

by the way my os .32's turned 11,500 rpm.

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

Gunny, I'm using OS .25FX on this one. This is the first FX engines I've used. I was impressed with the way they broke in. I'm sure they can use a little more running, and I didn't do anything with the idle adjustments yet, since I had to put them back in the pods from the test stand and will have to readjust the linkage, etc. I'll do that on the plane. I kept a tach on them during break in and each time I leaned it out during the break in cycle I was picking up additional rpm.
I broke in the .25 LA engined I have on my Transall the same way, and as I recall I was getting about 12-13k out of them after break in.
I'm going to seriously try to find a 3 blade prop that will work on this C-130. So far, I haven't found a 9 x 4 three balde. I'm sure someone should make one. I had what I believed was 9 x5 three blades on the transall originally and they just didn't cut it. Turns out they were 9 x 6. Guess they were just a little much for the .25 engine.
I'm getting good performance out of the .25LA engines on my Transall, I can only imagine how those .32's make it perform. If this 130 takes off and lands as good as my Transall, I'll be more than satisfied. The Transall has probably the most scale looking take offs and landings I've ever seen in a model I had. I know, (before someone remnds me!) that it's the pilot, not the plane, but this is a very well behaved airplane.
Keep in touch,
Randy

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

the best 3-bladed props which I like to use in order of power and performance are:

#1 girsh-magnum tornado props, (seams like tower hobbies no longer carries them)

#2 graupner props

#3 master-airscrews

the props which dont work (for me at least) are Jo-Zingali black plastic 3-bladed props and apc 4-bladed props. []

a pic of my c-160

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

I weighed the beast again tonight and it comes out at 17.25# dry. Add the difference between a 1100mah and the 1500 that I'm going to put in, whatever nose weight it takes and that will be it. Maybe still possible to come in at 18#.
Randy

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

looking good[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=greedy.gif]

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

I will check the throws tomorrow and let you know what I am flying. Black looks nice..

Has anyone flown the bird yet other than myself and Bob. Still wondering how to get under 20#?

The stringers were spruce 1/4x1/4" on the floor. 2 equally spaced in the landing gear box and 3' long. I just centered them up. Epoxied them to the floor and landing gear box. Then I put 4 oz glas over them.

Dah,, maybe this is why I am at 22 #'s. In any case I have 19 flights. Been flying the stinger 1.2 with my trusty 1.8 Saito. Flat spins have been working out well.

The winds here have been 15 g to 20 knots across the runway so the herk has stayed in the hanger.

Caution,, when landing the herk, the wing spand will NOT allow a lot of maneuvering low to the ground. When you align on the runway don't S turn on final,, Fly it down and keep it centered with small turns.

Let me know when anyone else is flying. (I have been building another big bird,, and not on line this week ),, Shame on me..
I will check the throws.

I did use about 1.5#'s of weight in the nose to balance. Perhaps without this I would have been about 20#'s.

I did not use any chokes or filters in the servo wiring. I did however use 2 rec. and 2 bat packs. 1 rec operates the wing and the antenna follows the top of the fuse and into the rudder up to the tip.

The other rec is in the landing gear box and operates all the fuse. equipment. The antenna runs on the floor and about 10" away from the other antenna. There is NO electrical connection between the wing rec. and the fuse. rec. This keeps glitching out of the system. At least for me anyway it works. I also use NiMh 1450 ma batt's.

Back tomorrow with throws.. Jim

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

Will be much appreciated for the rest of us

Thanks, gunny

c-130RCpilot

I have reviewed the Skip Mast C-130 plans and cannot find any wing washout. The best I can determine is the wing root and stab are 0 degrees. I am thinking of adding 2 degres of washout to the Mast 130 I'm building and am looking for suggestions. Can any builders of the Mast C-130 help me with this? Were your birds built with no washout as well?

c130nut

Anybody got any digital pics of the inside of their AE C130? Like how the servo trays are or the control rods?

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

Bill, Here is two pics I took of the inside the way I did the hook up.With all the room that's available in this thing, there are lots of possibilities-this is just one. I opted to put the rudder servo about on the CG instead of the tail, and use a pull-pull cable. I have two Hi-Tech HS-2225BB servos for each elevator, located on each side of the stab.
Used the same servos for the ailerons.
Picture one-Directly looking down into the fuse from the wing saddle. Rudder servo is in the center of the landing gear box, and the receiver is mounted on a ply plate on the right hand side. Beneath the receiver is a styrofoam block in which the landing gear light circuit board is embedded, with rubber pads on each side of the board. On the bottom of the ply plate I put aluminum tape, to possibly shield any signals from the circuit board to the receiver, although I did not experience any problem with this during check out.
Picture 2- is a shot looking forward from the wing saddle. You can see the nose steering servo, which is located directly inside the access door I made on the left side of the plane. You have to make some sort of incision in the fuse in order to even get to the nose to put the stuff in! This is what I chose to do. The 9 volt battery is for the RAM rotating beacon and is velcro'd to the nose gear ply mount, and the circuit board for that is velcro'd to the floor directly in front of the access door. Forward of that is the "floor I put in to support the battery/batteries for the flight pack. I have velcro glued to this floor for attachment of the battery. Hopefully, a 1500mah pack will just about balance the thing. If not, in goes the lead!
One thing that has been if immense help to me is a device that I call a "copycat" (I don't know what others call it).
Trying to get ply plates to fit inside the fuse and getting the right shape is a problem. With this device, making a former is a piece of cake. I'll send you a pic of it if you don't know what it is. Hard to describe. Available at most any hardware store.
You know, someone could take these couple threads and put together a helluva set of instructions for building this bird!! I know I would have been lost without Jimcorks help.
(still think we should have a "Herk Rally" somewhere!!)

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

OOPS! Two things in pic 2 above need explaining. The battery laying on the floor of the fuse is just temporaryily laying in there-won't be there when the big one goes up front. The white things on the right side of the pic is guide tubes made out of business cards for the battery wire from the switch to the battery. My switch is installed in the fuse under the right wing. I'm trying to keep the battery wire as far away from the rotating beacon wire as I can, because I got a lot of servo jitter in this when it was mounted back where the landing gear light board was. Guess it was too close to the receiver. Another great thing about working on big airplanes- plenty of room to move stuff apart!
Sorry for that screw up, but I've been looking at this computer screen since 4pm today. Bought another printer last weekend, only to find that the operating system on the computer wouldn't support it. Had that updated today, and half the other stuff I had wouldn't work, and I've been downloading updates, drivers, etc. since then to get everything all back in one pile! Hopefully, I'm done!!!
Randy

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

rryman, is that a spring on your nose gear for shock absorption?
I cant quite make it out in the picture.

thanks, Gunny

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

Yes, that's my contraption I worked out to give some spring to the nose gear since there is none built into the gear wire, it's just a straight piece of 5/32 rod. I just thought it might help out somewhat on a rough field.
Randy

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

Good point. I'll be doing something similar.

c130nut

I think I must be blind, what spring? I cannot see what you guys are talking about.

c130nut

Hey guys, I just wanted to tell you about the conversation that I had with Duralite systems the other day. I was thinking about buying one of the powerbox distribution system for the C130. I did not know that it has a built in amplifier/isolator for the long servo cables. I have heard of guys having problems with long runs, and this would fix it. It really sounded like a great product. I think I am going to rig it into the C130, and run two 200 ma packs. Now, which reciever to go with. I read a review of a FMA receiver that has the technology to lock onto the signal signature of your radio..... sounds interesting. Anybody heard of this one?

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

Back at the bottom of page 2, there is a picture looking at the front end of the fuselage taken from the opening in the wing saddle. If you look close, you'll see there is a springaround the nose gear wire. sort of a vibration damping thing I installed. many nose gears have a coil of wire in them to absorb some shock. This is just a straight piece of 5/32 rod. Hopefully, this will take some of the shock out of the nose gear and also take some off the nose steering servo. also put sort of a big "Z" bend in the wire between the servo and the steering arm to absorb some shock before transmitting it to the servo gears.
===========
Haven' heard of the Duralite thing, but was reading something intersting about the new FMA device. I belive it was their latest edition of the Co-Pilot, which is programmable to return the plane to a pre-set flight pattern should you lose signal. If this works as well as their original co-pilot, I'll probably be looking into one.
Randy

c130nut

Go to fmadirect.com and look at the new receiver and the thing you are talking about. I read about it also. It sounds great!

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

Finally back. Holidays and travel.

(note this is inches not metric for those out of country)

Elevator +/- 1"

Rudder +/- 2" (Rudder mixing is 1/4" L and R for Full Aileron travel), This will help on turns and engine out.

Aileron +/- 1 1/4"

Flaps 1 1/4" in full down position measured from trailing edge of wing to trailing edge of flap. (Flaps are sized as per plans)

Hope this helps. I did not measure the nose wheel throw, you can adjust it on the ground.

For the discussion of sheeting. I used the 48" sheets and only had 1 splice (If I remember correctly). I off set the sheets and covered the center wing only, then the wing end panels. My splices were cut at a 45. Sheeting strenght after covered w/ .4oz glas has not been a problem. For those who might have not seen other thread. I did have an issue with contact cement (Sorgum) delaminating. I don't think there was enough tensile strenght when I made a hard landing. The delamination occured at the end of the joiner tube which I think caused a high pressure point and began the delamination. After finding the delamination I split the trailing edge open and used West Epoxy with piano wire to spread it inside the sheeting and on the foam. Since then I have had no further issues. Watch the sheeting closely. My main gear does not have much spring and if you land hard the long wing span gives quite a bit of leverage on the wing joints.

Let me know when someone else is airborn. Happy flying.. Jim

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

Here is my attempt at putting the nose art on the plane tonight. Since decals weren't in the budget, I made an attempt to do-it-myself. I'm fairly satisfied with the results. Some of these even varied a little from aircraft to aircraft.
Randy

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

Nice job on the nose art. I flew the E model and was up and close to the A models and the nose art looks great.

Finally I got a digital camera, so I can not get pics of any item on my herk you might like. I will photo the tail with my squadron markings and tail numbers.

It will be exciting on the first flight. For take off I accelerate, and it does reach a max speed on the grass, then add full up elev, the nose will lift off like the "big herk" and it will roll on the mains for about 15' more then the mains will lift off. Caution, don't over rotate at lift off. I had #1 engine sag out at lift off and it made an exciting takeoff. I pulled throttle back,, leveled out and the engine settled in. I made an immediate landing and richened up 2 clicks and flew the remainder of the day.

Be sure to photo takeoff roll and flights.. (Waiting for your photos.)

Jim

jimcork1

My Feedback: (4)

How did you do the panel lines?

c130nut

Simply AWESOME... Incredible!!!!!!!!!

fossil

My Feedback: (25)

rryman,
That looks great, I have been on the C-130 for 24 years and that looks almost real. You did an awesome job. I can't wait to get started on mine. Got some work on the house and a H9 P51 to do first then its next.
fossil

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

The idea for how to do the nose art came to me the other night, actually while I was doing a little cleaning up. I had some "Ultra trim" rolls there and figured I could use it for part of it. The yellow moon is self stick vinyl I got from the LHS who has a machine to cut vinyl letters, but it is basically the same as the Ultracote trim stuff. I found a logo of the ghost and minigun on a Spectre patch which I downloaded from the Spectre Association web page. I resized it on the computer to the size I needed for the plane, then printed off a left hand and right hand version. I took that, taped it over the yellow vinyl and put it over a poster board backing, used a new X-acto knife and cut out the moon. Then I taped the cut out part back into the template and cut out the ghost from the white trim. I applied that, and the rest of the detail which was too small to cut out I painted on, such as the flames coming out the gun, and the other small details like the eye on the ghost. The letters "THOR" came from a vinyl sheet of letters & numbers available at Office Max, Staples, etc. They are red letters, but the ones on the original bird were red with a white bottom, So, dab on a little white dope and that was that. I used the same letters and numbers for putting on the tail numbers and the number on the nose.
PANEL LINES--- I've been contemplating trying this for some time, having read about it other places, including this site, so it's not my idea. The lines were made using chart tape. I hadn't heard of this stuff until I read about it. it's something that draftsmen used apparently before the days of computers and CAD. It is a very thin tape. I used 1/32" wide. My buddy Pete (jmupilot) told me how he did it on his U-2. When you are ready to paint, you clean the plane good (I used alcohol) so the tape will stick. Apply the tape where you want the lines. Then lay on a final coat of primer over it. If you want thick panel lines, put on more primer. I put on one good coat and it came out just fine. When you remove the tape, you will have a depression in the surface. I then LIGHTLY sanded over the lines with 1000 grit paper to justs knock down the edge. Then you're ready to paint. They are really not noticeable until you get close to the plane, and the gloss black and camo also subdue it some. I really liked the effect it gave.
And yes, there will be at least one video camera on the first flight. When I had my A-26, my son and I took it to the field one afternoon just to do some taxi tests. With an airplane that weighed in at 20# and had 880 sq. in of wing, I wasn't optimistic that it would even fly. My "plan" was to just lift the plane about 2' off the ground to see what would happen, then set it back down. We have a 1k runway, so I had plenty of room. Well, about 150' before I was ready to try this, the plane jumped into the air on it's own, with no application of elevator. By the time I got over being startled that it was in the air, it had started a slight roll to the left and was over the corn. I had just cut the throttles but got back on it when I knew it would be in the corn. The rest of the flight was crazy-got most of it on the video camera except when I told my son to put the camera down and come help me with the trim. We did manage to get control of it and make a good first flight and landing. Yes, I'll be looking out for anything like that this time!

Randy