KMP P-38
#51
Thread Starter

hehe.....well the acces through the engine bulkhead is 
Well, during instalation of the rudders and elevator and servos I have run into small anoying things
There are only 6 pin hinges included with the kit, which is enough for the inboard flaps. But Im missing a further 8 more for both rudders.
I also had to remove some fiberglass in the booms so the elevator/rudder/throttle mini servos will fit.

Well, during instalation of the rudders and elevator and servos I have run into small anoying things

There are only 6 pin hinges included with the kit, which is enough for the inboard flaps. But Im missing a further 8 more for both rudders.
I also had to remove some fiberglass in the booms so the elevator/rudder/throttle mini servos will fit.
#53
Thread Starter

your welcome
I actualy only needed two, as my nose gear didn`t leak. But I changed all 3.
Maybe I was just out of luck with the 2 others.
And please take lots of pictures of the b-25 whwn you get it. I also want one of those [8D]

I actualy only needed two, as my nose gear didn`t leak. But I changed all 3.
Maybe I was just out of luck with the 2 others.
And please take lots of pictures of the b-25 whwn you get it. I also want one of those [8D]
#55
Thread Starter

I had an unused electric pneumatic valve lying around......easier to install than the mechanical servo operated valve 
Also installed the two outboard flap servos.

Also installed the two outboard flap servos.
#56
Thread Starter

Also glued the stabilazer onto the booms, and installed one of the rudders. Will have to wait for more pin hinges until the other one can be installed too.
#57
Thanks for all the great pictures, I can see many, many small changes between my older version and the new one, a lot of major stuff too, it looks like the quality still isn't very good though.
#58

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From: MeridaYucatan, MEXICO
ORIGINAL: av8r4aa
I am working on the first generation KMP P-38
It looks like they have really done a lot of improvements to your plane.
I changed out the gear to robart and moved them up higher in the well.
That way they will retract fully into the wheel well.
I am working on the first generation KMP P-38
It looks like they have really done a lot of improvements to your plane.
I changed out the gear to robart and moved them up higher in the well.
That way they will retract fully into the wheel well.
Woud you help me givin me the part number from Robart do you use in yours?
Also want to know if you use Robostruts and Wheels from them. Mine fly really well but I cant make the gear to work and is a shame.
I´m attaching a picture.
#59
Thread Starter

Thanks for all the great pictures, I can see many, many small changes between my older version and the new one, a lot of major stuff too, it looks like the quality still isn't very good though.
I wish others would take as many pics of their planes........ I am pleased with the quality though. Its a fairly easy to build plane, that has a good finish, and satisfies my need in a p-38 standoff scale plane. You cant satisfy everyone..thats imposible
There are always hits and misses in every ARF kit.
Im looking forward to flying this thing [8D]
#60

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From: Coppell, TX
My landing gear choice.
I used the Robart 630 and 640 nose gear.
I had to remove the existing mounts and raise
them up. This made the gear retract fully into the well.
You could probably get less expensive gear than these.
They are for 12/25 lbs. aircraft.
I would use a less expensive set if I had pavement to fly
from.
I am using a 3 and 3/4 inch tire for the mains, it looks about scale.
Greg
I used the Robart 630 and 640 nose gear.
I had to remove the existing mounts and raise
them up. This made the gear retract fully into the well.
You could probably get less expensive gear than these.
They are for 12/25 lbs. aircraft.
I would use a less expensive set if I had pavement to fly
from.
I am using a 3 and 3/4 inch tire for the mains, it looks about scale.
Greg
#64
Thread Starter

Can you mount the flap servos so they are semetrical so no reverser is needed?
Sam
Sam

The inboard, and outboard flap servos are installed semetrical, in both sides.
Im using 2 Y leads, and 2 channels for the 4 flap servos.
Im also going to use a Y lead on the ailerons, and a Y lead on the 2 elevator servos.
#67
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From: , OK
hey you got a nice looking bird there!, could I make a suggestion without insulting you?. here I go. I have been doing lowvoltage eletronics for 20 years now, not saying that you will have a problem but tiewraping servo wires is not the best idea and if you still decide to do so make them LOOSE! Whenever you tighten on a wire you drop the resistance value of the wire, this dose'nt nessesarly mean it wont work, but the wire is designed to work BEST at a certian resistance value. its kinda like putting regular oil in a porshe when it really needs synthetic! hope you take this in mind. (Blenderm skin Tape) the best stought in the world and very light! Have a great day! Chris
#68
Thread Starter

Thanks alot chris. I did not think of that.
Fortunatly I have installed them all loose, so I can slide the tie wraps back and forth to fit the harness properly
So that should be fine [8D]
Please guys, say something if you think I have done something wrong. Might exand the lifetime of my plane
Fortunatly I have installed them all loose, so I can slide the tie wraps back and forth to fit the harness properly

So that should be fine [8D]
Please guys, say something if you think I have done something wrong. Might exand the lifetime of my plane
#71

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From: Bryan, TX
Looking great Sonnich....You are truly doing a fantastic job...We appreciate your input and all the pics...I am awaiting the B-25...or OV-10 or maybe I will cave in and buy the P-38!!!!!!!!!
#73
Thread Starter

Installed the rudder and elevator pushrods..
First try did not work out, so I had to change it.
I initaialy used a carbon rod, with a steel wire, and clevis in each end, but there was just too much slop where the wire bends.
I was not satisfied.
First try did not work out, so I had to change it.
I initaialy used a carbon rod, with a steel wire, and clevis in each end, but there was just too much slop where the wire bends.
I was not satisfied.



