UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

I am starting to build a E2 Hawkeye, complete with retracts, complete scale lighting, and a rotating radar dish. It's 49" long and has a 69" wing span. I'm not sure if I will go with two OS .25 FX's or two OS .40 4 strokes.

I have a question regarding the rotating radar dish. What size/model electric motor can I use to provide the scale motion? Will an electric motor cause interference with my servos and receiver? Also, are there any informative sites on setting up and sequencing landing gear doors?

Any info will be appreciated. I will have pics as soon as I make noticeable some progress.

Mike

valentrd

Now that will be a really cool Scale Model to see Make sure you post pics..

Regards

rcmiket

I've always liked the E2C never got around to really looking into it. Are these your plans? The Tu-4 at Top Gun used a electric motor to turn the Radar dish on his plane. It was a electric all the way. Looked real good. I'll try and find the info on it. Good luck keep us posted. As far as the gear doors Jomar makes a sequencer that worked real well in my Mustang. BVM I'm sure also makes one for there jets. You might try rcscalebuilder.com for some tricks on set up I recall a guy did a pretty good job showing his Mustang doors. -Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

No, these are not my plans. I purchased them on EBAY. I was worried they would lack the detail to build a quality airplane, but I was very surprised. I received 5 sheets some as long as 6 feet. VERY detailed! I have started with the easiest part, (my opinion), the radar dish. I will be posting pics on my website as I make progress. They can be viewed here:
http://webpages.charter.net/ulkowski/

I have most of my concerns worked out except for the retract doors. I'm not sure if I will have enough room in my engine nacelles. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Stay tuned for more updates...

rcmiket

Looks pretty promising, would you be intrested in selling a copy of your plans?-Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Hey, I would have NO problem sending you a copy, but this would cost some money. I have already made a copy of the plans at Kinkos, just in case I ruined a sheet. It cost me$25. Then it would cost an additional $7 to package them in a shipping tube and send them off priority mail. Just let me know....

It might be cheaper bet would be to win this auction on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
I'm not sure how this guy is making copies, but they are definately worth it. He has very fast shipping too.

I just bought a new set of robart air retracts. I will be fiberglassing much of the aircraft for strength. I should be ready to glass the radar dish this weekend. Picture will be posted as the progress continues...

rcmiket

Yea,I just placed a bid on E-bay. That looks like the way to go. Thanks Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

I'm looking for a solution for a single fuel tank using two engines. Is it better to go with 2 header tanks, similar to what is used in helicopters, or is it better to use a fuel pump/regulator. I will be installing a pair of OS 52 4-strokes and I won't have much room in the engine nacelles for a fuel tank, much less a header tank, because of the retracts.

Looking for some opinions on my design thoughts. I wanted to install a single tank (size yet to be determined, probably 14-20oz)along the CG lines, and run a pair of Ironbay fuel regulators. I was going to install mainly brass tubing running from the main tank to the engine nacelles. At either end I would use standard fuel tubing to make the final connections. I didn't want the standard fuel tubing chafing/rubbing within the wing structure. Would both pressure lines from the mufflers have to be routed back to the main fuel tank?

I have found posts within this forum describing close to what I want to do, but not exactly. I don't want to use a perry pump due to the space limitations. I'll be lucky if I can get my retract door to function.

Any thoughts or design help is appreciated.

Mike

BillS

My experience indicates that header tanks will be needed. They can be as small as one ounce. One feeder tank was unsuccessful because of mixing of muffler pressure. However two feeder tanks was successful. Muffler pressure does need to be routed to the main tank. Might remember that at times the engines will be run at different speeds on purpose. Muffler pressure from the wide-open engine will be too great for an engine that is idling.

If concerned with chafing/rubbing the fuel line can be clamped. Nylon clamps are available from Radio Shack. Chafing has not been a problem and I run the silicone fuel tubing loose through the frame.

Twins are twice as much fun and ten times as much trouble.

I have no experience with pumps or regulators.

Bill S

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Mike:

Most people using a remote tank with header tanks are kidding themselves. The purpose of the header is to keep a constant fuel supply without having to worry about the clunks drawing air in extreme maneuvers. As far as the engine is concerned, hydraulically the engine sees the fuel draw from the remote tank as though the header tank was not there.

In the case of the r/c helicopters mentioned, the engine is perfectly capable of drawing fuel from the main tank without the header, if your engine wont pull fuel from the remote without the header tank, it will not pull fuel with the header tank.

Using muffler pressure and a single remote tank will lead to erratic mixture as the two engines change speeds, but two remote tanks, each half size (one for each engine), will work fine IF the engine can pull its fuel that far.

Using a regulator, either Cline or Iron Bay, works fine with a single tank. The pressure lines from both engines should be used, a check valve in each, then teed into the remote tank. Use a separate clunk for each engine though. I've tried a single clunk, unless the fittings and hoses are large there can be some interaction. I have to qualify this one, as mine have all been pumped rather than pressurized. Might work fine with the pressure system.

All this having been said, look at [link=http://www.elliotfan.com/temp/duelist.html]Mucksmear's ME-246[/link] - single remote with headers, works fine for him.

Bill.

rcmiket

Mike;
I bought the plans you have on E Bay and am waiting for them to show up. I have the same concerns as far as the tanks. Once the plans arrive I'll check them out and look for options. This is the real fun part of trying to model a seldom seen plane. Hang in there I'm sure we can come up with something. Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Well, from the pics you can tell my radar dome is less than ideal. http://webpages.charter.net/ulkowski
It would take too long to fix and would be too heavy in the end. So, I have opted to rebuild the dish from scratch. The basic problem I had was the outer edges could not be rounded in there current form. It came out lop-sided and very unbalanced. I need this to be near perfect so it doesn't cause any unwanted flight characteristics. Back to the building board....
On the other hand, the radar dish pylon came out extremely well. I will be doing the final sanding and fiberglassing this weekend. [:@] D#mn, I forgot about that mandatory female holiday that men/husbands have to participate in.......aka Valentines Day. DELAY OF GAME- 15 Yards!!! Ok, maybe the following weekend I'll get to it. More to follow...

rcmiket

Mike, I just got finished looking over the plans I got for the Hawkeye. Are you dead set on glow? After checking them out I noticed it calls for 2 colbalt 30's. Target weight 8 lbs. Seems to me electric would solve a few problems. The electric stuff I've tried in the past has just plane s---ked. With the new stuff out maybe it would be the way to go. I'm really pleased with the plans and am looking foward to playing around with this one.-Let me know what you think.-Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

I will always be a glow engine flyer. But, electric would solve some building issues. I'm shooting for 10-12 pounds. With all the upgrades I plan to do, I will be doing some extensive re-enforcing of the fuselage.

What are you thoughts for the cockpit and engine cowlings? I plan to build and sheet the forward part of my fuselage with balsa. As for the engine cowlings, I will be contacting a few venders looking for a close match to the front part of the engine cowling, then building and sheeting the aft portion with balsa/light ply.

I plan on creating a access panel on the side of the fuselage with the easy refuel connection, the charge ports, the air retracts connection, and the remote glow adapter. This will lock shut with magnets or a small door handle.

I need to find a contact somewhere out there with extensive Navy connections. I need some closeup pictures of the plane. Any ideas?

Mike

rcmiket

Do a goggle search on the E-2C there's a bunch of stuff you'll be amazed. I have to be honest the 12 lb. weight is really pushing it. I built a C-130 that I'm refinishing right now and made a mold and did my own glass cowls, I'll post some pictures over the next few days they might work. I'm going to get with a few friends who know a thing or two about electrics and see what I can come up with. Hang in there . Oh ya about you will always be a glow guy after 15 years of the R/C stuff I've learned "never say never" -Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Well, my weight might be a bit high. I am honestly ball-parking it. I figure it will be heavier than what what the original plans called for. It will all depend on how much fiberglassing I do once the basic airframe is built and sheeted. I have a new pic on my webpage showing the beginning stages of my second radar dish. I want to make it stronger but lighter than the first one. I have added blocks to the outer ring, so I can sand the edges to make the radar dish circular. My first try had to many squared off edges. It would have been too time-comsuming and heavy to make it round and finish it.

Mike, do you plan on using your C-130 engine cowls on this project? Are they a close match/fit? If so, I might have to talk you into making some more... (For the right price, of course) You mention, "never say never", well, for this one, I plan to stay glow. I think we will both reach some interesting hurdles if we build one glow and one electric.

But this is half the fun!!!![&:][8D]
Mike

rcmiket

I've been tied up at work will past some pictures of the 130 cowls soon. Hope all is well. Mike

rcmiket

I found some time, this cowl I made from a wooden plug I made. Did a plaster of paris mold and layed up some glass. As you can see its close I think what I'll do is try to do one as per the plans. Got some outof town stuff over the next few weks so I not sure when I'll get to it. MIke

redtail

My Feedback: (15)

MORE, MORE, MORE, your not being fair - - not posting any further construction photos. I'm dying to see the build. PLEASE. A sincere fan of the "Hummer". Chic White

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

Redtail, take a look here:
http://webpages.charter.net/ulkowski

Its easier for me to post pictures on my site for now. Not sure if you wanted to scratch build, but I am having my plans cut at www.kitcutters.com. If you would like to get in on purchasing the same kit (discounted for multiple orders ), I would/will let them know to cut another kit.

Here's some ideas I plan to incorporate in the E-2:
1-Robart Air Retracts
2-Landing lights (Working off a micro switch when the gear is in the down position)
3-Rotating radome (Working off a micro switch when the gear is in the up position)
4-Tailhook (Will move when landing gear deploys, but non-functional as an arresting gear)
5-Onboard Glow for my twin OS 52's mounted inverted.
6- Twin .50 Cal's in the belly turrent....... Strictly for self-defense!! (Joking)

This will be an awesome aircraft when completed. If you need pics of the full size E-2, let me know. I have found a good collection from many angles.

Mike

rcmiket

Mike whats the cost of the kit from the kitcutter? -Mike

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

As quoted from an email from the owner of KitKutters, "cost for the full wood kit would be $210 plus shipping which should be about $25 in the US."

First I thought it was high, but after I looked into getting the plans converted to CAD, I realized it might actually be cheaper. It's not like you see this kit everyday. I'm willing to pay it.

Mike

dizza

Wow those guys are right by me, located just a few minutes away. And they cut the smaller Palmer C-130's! No other kit cutter would do that model.

-d

UkerDuker

My Feedback: (3)

How do you load picture within a post? Guess I'll just keep posting the link to my site. http://webpages.charter.net/ulkowski
I have been sanding for about 6 hours trying to get all my tail fins shaped. I almost choked myself from all the dust.[:'(] But it has been worth it. My tail is almost complete. I will be adding a pair of flex cables within the horizontal stab and sheeting the bottom side, then I should be ready for fiberglassing.
I should be receiving the mechanics early next week for controlling the radar dish rotation. I will be using a standard(modified) Futaba 3003 servo and a power gearbox from Robotzone.
http://www.robotzone.com/customer/se...ubstring=sg220
This will slow the constantly rotating servo down to the scale speed of the radar dish, 7-8 RPM.

More to follow..... --Mike

rcmiket

Mike- If you look at the bottom of the repley box you'll see a "click here to uplaod" Hit that the browse button. look in the file were your pictures are theen click on the item.Its really easy once youve done it once or twice. I'm looking foward to your report on how your "kit" looks from the cutter.-Mike