MMallory

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Pete, I'll try to remember to weigh it for you. I think it is around 11 lbs. I have larger holes in the cowl and I run the rear engine pretty rich for cooling. No problems with overheating.

The struts may not be functional by design (I don't know for sure). As I mentioned the builder of my plane is of unknown origin and it is possible the need for the struts on mine is due to poor building technique.

Mark

atsioukl

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Hi Pete,

You are correct - the booms are permanently attached to the wing on my 336. Before doing this though, I had to make sure the entire wing assembly fit into my SUV. And I tell you what, it barely makes it!

Anyhow, I hope to get lots more done on the airplane this weekend. I'll make sure to post more pics.

Good luck with your first flight - I'm sure things will turn out just fine.

Anthony

jmupilot

I tried to uplonad pics here in the thread but i couldn't get them to post, so I put some in my Gallery.

Pete

atsioukl

My Feedback: (1)

Pete,

I know that I have seen and commented on you 336 before, but, I must tell you again that it looks AWESOME! You did an excellent job building and finishing. I can't wait to hear how your first flight goes.

Anthony

whvandy

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Hey Guys, I'm also building a 336 Royal kit. The struts are missing. Any help on how to build struts would be appriciated. And how to secure them to the wing/fuse. I was thinking 2 70 Surpass for power, think the exhaust will clear? Thanks, Bill

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

Bill,

I build struts out of 1/4" dowels and 1/2"x 1/4 balsa sticks.

Use adhesive backed sandpaper and put it on the dowel. Sand a concave "nest" in the balsa stick and then CA the dowel into the stick.

On one end carefully cut a slot and epoxy and pin a plastic hinge. On the inside of the fuselage, epoxy a square piece of basswood and cut a hole in the fuse for the end of the hinge to mate with the basswood. Then epoxy a piece of basswood on top of the hinge so you have a tight fitting basswood/hinge/basswood sandwich. Drill through the sandwich for a 6-32 bolt and thread the basswood using a 6-32 tap.

Now, measure the strut length, cut to correct length and make the other end similar to the first one. Drill a hole for a 6-32 bolt in the hinge and drill and tap a hole to accept a bolt in the wing (you should have already built the bolt platform, right?)

Remove the bolts, Take the strut out and sand the balsa stock to an airfoil shape. Use some filler at the glue line if you need to.

Don

whvandy

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Thank you very much, Don. Will try your method.... Bill

hattend

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Bill,

Here is a set of Struts I made for a Goildberg Cub.

It is similar to the description I gave above. The good news is you only have to make a single strut on each wing. I covered it with monokote after final sanding.

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2931204/anchors_2935764/mpage_1/anchor/tm.htm#2935764#2935764]Post #10[/link]

whvandy

My Feedback: (1)

Don, read the other post, struts look great! One question, is the strut made from one strip of balsa or two like a sandwich around the dowel? Thanks, Bill

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

The dowel is the leading edge of the strut. The balsa behind the dowel is sanded to form the airfoil section.

BTW: I had a typo in post #56. Don't drill a 6/32 hole in the hinge but drill a hole to pass a 6-32 bolt. Sorry 'bout that.

Don

jmupilot

You do have the plans for the 336 right? The struts dont go out on the wings of the 336, but attach to the bottom of the tail booms. Mine are very short about 4 inches long I think. I'm not sure they are really funtional on the royal kit but I have mine on anyway. You can see then in one of the pictures in my gallery. I still havent gotten the nerve to test fly mine yet. Damn it's just to nice to look at. Maybe one of these days I'll get it in the air. There is another one flying in our club, and its look great in the air. The owner says its a piece of cake to fly.

Pete

whvandy

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Pete, I do have the plans, but they are kind of vague as to exactly where the top and bottom attach fairings are located and how to attach them. I'm thinking with the weight of the a/c the struts are functional, so the attach fairings have to be more than just glued in place... What are your thoughts, guys??

Bill V.
Gap, PA

MMallory

My Feedback: (1)

Bill,

On the Royal kit the struts are functional. Mine are attached to the bottom of the booms and near the gear on the fuse. Just glued into a slight groove sanded in the surface. My struts are simple plywood notched to mate with shorter ply mounts.

Mark

atsioukl

My Feedback: (1)

Bill,

The struts on this kit are built by sandwhiching together 2 pieces of what appear to be 1/8 ply. These pieces are to then be sanded into an airfoil shape. As Pete mentioned above, the struts do not attach directly to the wing, but rather, to the bottoms of each boom.

If you go back to page 2 of this post, you'll see some pics of my 336 at primer stage. You can clearley see how the struts will be attached.

As for power, I too chose 2 OS 70 4-strokes. It's a bit more than what's recommended but I'd rather be safe than sorry in the event of an engine out. As for the clearance on the 70's, if you do it right, you should only have a small portion of the valve cover sticking out. Unfortunately, there is no way to completely conceal them in the cowling. I think I also have some pics of my engines moutnings in this thread. Page back and look.

Hope this helps.

Anthony

P.S. to Pete - I can't beleive that you still have not flown that pretty 336 of yours. Hurry up and get it up in the air. : )

mystar46

Hi all, I bought this kit new back in the early '90's and have partially completed it. I am making mine an O2A. I want to do a pretty good scale job on it.
Royal's "glue blocks of balsa together and carve an airplane out of it" methodology leaves much to be desired. I've been looking for a suitable fiberglass cowl to modify and replace the front end of the plane from the firewall forward. I'm thinking a 1/5 or 1/4 scale Cessna 182 cowl might do the trick. Don't laugh, but I'm also determinied to put retracts in this thing. Just coming up with a concept of how it will work is very challenging. The mains drop down and come together and then fold back into the bottom rear of the fuse. The nose folds forward up into the cowl. (another reason to go with a fiberglass cowl.) If anyone else has been thinking about this or actually has something that works please let me know.
I have the fuselage basic frame completed, the wings framed but not sheeted and the horizontal stab framed. I'm getting tired of looking at it sitting on the shelf and would really like to get going on it this Winter.
I was surprised to see a fellow club member (whvandy) building the same plane. Bill, maybe we can share some ideas about this model. I was also thinking about using OS .70 4-strokes for power. The RCV 60SP engines might also be a good choice to keep things scale and leave plenty of cooling room around the engines.

MMallory

My Feedback: (1)

Dave,

Try a search, there is a company which make a slightly larger kit with retracts (expensive). You may be able to get some ideas from their design.

For engines, I used an OS 60 in the nose and an OS 46 in the rear. They work great and sync up perfectly.

Mark

whvandy

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Sorry, double post!

whvandy

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Dave, The 336 I have was framed up when I got it. (except for the struts). I've had to remove both cowls so I can remove the stock hardwood engine mount beams, and get it ready to accept anti-vibration mounts for the Surpass. A fiberglass cowling for the front would be great, but finding one would be tough. Making one, or having one made would be prohibitively expensive IMO. I also un-sheeted the bottom of the wing and removed all the bellcranks and wire. I now have 6 servos in the wing, along with the rx. Good luck, when your's is ready to fly, let me know, I'll run over to the goat farm and watch... Bill

mystar46

Mark, I've been looking for a long time with no luck. The ones that I found (Nitroplanes, KMP, and another real big one the size of a compact car) were all fixed gear. If you're sure you found one before, that gives me hope though!

Bill, I found cowls at Fiberglass Masters and Stan's Fibertech both for Cessna 182 that I think I could easily modify to fit. (I used to be an autobody mechanic) I started building mine with the bellcranks and I think I'll continue that way. Sounds like yours is a lot further along than mine. How about I watch you fly first! [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Dave

MMallory

My Feedback: (1)

Here is the link to the guy who had the retracts. http://www.rtaerospace.com/Cessna02A_kit.htm
Here is a link to another thread which discusses them. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3202650/tm.htm

Good luck.

mystar46

Thanks very much! Maybe I should just scrap the Royal kit and get one of those!

atsioukl

My Feedback: (1)

Dave / Mark,

How about you guys post some pics of your work. Would love to see it.

Anthony

MMallory

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Anthony,

I purchased the Royal so I can't take any credit for it good or bad. I did build the KMP and added a full light package with strobes. I will try to take a few shots of both and post over the weekend.

Mark

whvandy

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Dave, Here's where I am at the moment. Just got done mounting Du-Bro anti-vibration engine mounts. (I always use them on 4 stroke projects). Next will be to tap the mounts for the engines, install the tanks, figure out where my fueling valves will go, re-install the cowlings, fill and sand the fuse. Then start the finishing process. The wing is ready for paint, as are the tail booms. I'm taking it slow, things always turn out better that way, plus it's gonna be a long winter.... This is actually one of three projects I'm trying to do this winter, the Skymaster, a World Models P-82 Twin Mustang, (It's going to be electric), and a Cermark BD-5 that's also electric. I'll have to re-mortgage the house to buy all the Li-Poly's I'll need, but you gotta do what you gotta do... Hope I can find the time to get everything done. It's also nice having an understanding spouse... Have a nice holiday. Bill

mystar46

Here are some pictures of what I have so far. (not much unfortunately)
As you can see I've been messing around with a set of old CG mechanical retracts. I don't think I will end up using these but they're helping me visualize how I want the gear to work. The bottom of the cowl is all blocked up, but like I said earlier, it will probably be lopped off and fitted with a fiberglass cowl. I also have a 1/48 and 1/72 plastic model to use for reference. The scale cockpit interior kit came with the kit. I still have all of the original plans and the kit is 100% complete.