GTX SlotCar

That's going to narrow it down some. Off hand, I can think of 5 possible causes.
1. The TX could have a dirty rudder pot (potentiometer).
2. The RX could be bad (not likely).
3. There are usually 3 capacitors on the main motor. They help to filter some of the RF sent by the motor so it causes less interference with the RX (and nearby radios and TVs).
4. One of the servos could have dirty connections inside causing interference.
5. The battery connections could be loose. Most of the time, on 72mHz radios, when I had glitching problems it was caused by this. If the JST connectors on the battery & RX aren't real tight, it causes problems. This can happen after plugging them in and out just a few times.

One way to start tracking down the problem would be to unplug your main motor and fire up the heli with the tail motor running. Make sure you anchor the heli down, and also, operate the servos with you cyclic stick. It'll take quite a while to run through a battery pack, but you should run 2 or 3 packs through it. If there's no problem, chances are the RX, TX and servos are OK.
If everything is OK, plug your tail motor wire into the main motor output on your 4in1 and repeat the test.

nascarfaad

Thanks Gary~!!! I'll give it a try after I give it a maiden flight with the changes I've already made. How to you clean the pot on the transmitter? Also, what will that last step tell me exactly? Thanks again for your quick response. Hope this helps me figure it out.

Fugitive_Bill

Nascar,

Regarding a few of Gary's tips:

1/ Dirty Pot.
You need some stuff called Electro Lube http://www.electrolube.com.au/ you should be able to get it from
Radio Shack or any decent electronics store but it's not cheap. (7-10 bucks)
You need to try and use the straw (like what WD-40 comes with) and try and spray it down the shaft of the pot, then work the pot back and forth and hopefully it will get in there and clean the wiper.

5/ Bad Battery connection:
Sounds like he means the socket and plug from the reciever to the tail motor is not getting a solid connection and being 'noisy', like the pot could be, Electro Lube might work there too.

Hope that helps a bit.

-Bill!

GTX SlotCar

Radio shack has a product called Tuner Cleaner that works well, but it's expensive now - about $11 I think. Auto parts stores like NAPA usually have electrical contact cleaner in larger size cans for less money.
Contact cleaner may work on the JST connectors (battery and 4in1), but usually I've just replaced them. The end on the battery (actually the female end) is usually the first to wear out. Sometimes you can get a bit more life out of them by squeezing the metal female pins to make them tighter. In general, I don't think JST connectors are the best solution for batteries, but they've become standard for the size range of batteries in these helis and we even use them on our SuperPacks as a convenience to our customers.

In reading over my last post, I noticed I didn't finish the point to item 3 in the list [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]
The point was that one or more of the capacitors may be damaged or missing and it's causing interference.

horsfordtone

Hi Gary et all,
Finally got a chance to sort out the #4 heli.
Thanks for advice and reading most of the other info on this site, here’s what I’ve done.

1) Secured the brass bushings in the head and fly bar area.
2) Re-aligned the servo arms and levelled the swash plate.
3) Balanced and replaced the main rotor blades. Had to make up new bushes, as the original ones were too small.
4) Trimmed of 5 mm off the tail rotor and balanced.
5) Shortened the tailskid to allow the skids to sit level.
6) Added 5 grams of blue tack in the nose of the canopy.


The heli is flying a lot better now. Rudder trim currently set at 60% to the right. Still needs trimming out as I’ve got the TBE syndrome. Which way should I adjust the trim – towards – ve or +ve???

Any suggestions as to how to brace the tail boom ( ala bigger size heli’s?) as it does flex in the vertical plain?

Regards,
Toné

GTX SlotCar

If it's real TBE, I don't think you can trim it out. It's usually caused by something being bent or out of round or off center. If your rotor head (blade grips) for example, was built slightly off center it would cause TBE. An elongated mounting hole on a blade could cause it. A bent main shaft (doesn't take much) could cause it, and so could misaligned bearing.
The tail boom can be braced with a kit [link=http://www.super-skids.com/superskids/superskids.htm]LIKE THIS.[/link]

Fugitive_Bill

Nascar,

I don't know anything about Falcon 40's but I doubt the the tail boom is creating TBE.
Is the tail boom made of CF or alloy?

I find CF has more twist happening than alloy. (in fact alloy would have NO twist in that size aircraft)

I dont think bracing the tail boom will help.
It's more likely something like Gary said, something is bent, like the main drive shaft or some thing not centred like the flypaddle shaft. (I just guessing, I'm certainly no expert)

(Gary: Your inlaws 'backyard' looks fun, you lucky boy, you even have the pond for for boats, or one of those cool Hydo-Foam planes or whatever are called, they go any where, but cost a fortune).

-Bill!

nascarfaad

A quick update... no spinning during a full pack. Not sure what fixed my problem but I changed batteries in transmitter, replaced capacitor on tail motor, and replace tail motor wires. Of course this was only one pack. Will try to fly a couple more tomorrow. Thanks to everyone who passed along great ideas.

horsfordtone

Hi Gary & Bill,
The flybar is equally spaced and running true.
There is no slop in the main blade mounting pivot as I have cut new bushes with a laser cutter.
Main shaft is true.
I have reduced the nose weight to 3 grams.
Withstanding the above, the apparent TBE before has all but gone now.
It could have been me overcorrecting on the stick movement, as newbees do
Need more practice with this bird and others.
Final target helis are the Creata, Storm 450, 59DQ, currently sitting in the 'Hangar' awaiting their turn later this year.
Also learning to fly the Hirobo Quark, getting better on that one.
Regards,
Toné

horsfordtone

Hi all,
Have flown 'big bird' today in the hands of my tame heli test pilot. [8D]
He reports it is good and with a little adjustment on the 'extend and sensitivity' pots it is more responsive now.

Press on and more practice

Toné

GTX SlotCar

Those do look like fun, Bill. We considered getting one a couple years ago when they 1st started appearing, but for some reason we didn't do it. I have considered floats for the planes and helis, though, and maybe even an r/c sailboat. Sail when it's windy, fly when it's not [8D]

Guys, here are some pics of the final design (with graphics) of SuperBlades XP and EZ. I expect release date to be in 2 or 3 weeks. the last picture shows the bottom of the blade with the trim line. It can be used as a guide to modify the blades for those who have very high head speeds and want a blade with a little less lift.

dchin62973

Gary,

How are these blades any different than the X-treme production blades They look the same except they are black and priced at $7.99(USD)

GTX SlotCar

Dane, I'm afraid I really can't answer your question with specifics because I've never actually seen the xtreme blades. I've seen pictures of them (but not for $7.99) and they look a lot different to me when I look closely, but from a casual glance, yes they're both long and skinny and have a mounting hole. I've been told that the xtreme blades are a copy of the M24s but the area around the mounting hole (root) is the same thickness as stock blades. Judging by how fast they came out with them, I'd have to assume this is correct, and they do have a history of doing this. SuperSkids never copies and we don't feel we have a right to make money off someone else's engineering. I haven't flown the xtreme blades, but I've been told they still have a tendency to pitch up at high speed. Our XPs don't.

I do have M24s, though, and at 1st glance I guess ours do look a bit like them, but there are a lot of engineering differences. SuperBlades were designed from the ground up with no other blade as reference, so they are what they are. The guys who did the final engineering have probably never seen an M24 (and certainly not an xtreme). The only exception to the design is the root (thickness at the mounting hole). Ours was thicker, but I changed it to match the M24s so customers who are already using them won't have to find a new mounting solution for ours. It's an attempt to standardize the mounting, and a marketing decision. I would have preferred going thinner like the stock blades (and xtremes), but it just didn't work as well. Some guys that have been on these forums for a long time may remember that we started the superblades project 3 years ago (I probably should have copied the M24s too, and got these to market 3 years ago) as a 'one blade for everyone' solution. We finally gave up on that approach and now have XP and EZ models. If you just look at the EZ and XP models, you'd think they look the same. But if you carefully compare them, the differences are evident. And of course, they fly completely differently. EZs are not very good at FFF; they're a hovering and slow speed blade for beginners.
We've also included a trim line (guide) on the bottom of the blades for those who want to modify them because of increased head speed, etc.

dchin62973

Gary,

Thanks for the clarification. I have been modifying all the helis I can with usage of some Super Skid product.

I have been hearing that the 2.4GhZ models are basically going to replace the legacy 35Mhz/72Mhz models by year end. I have heard that Walkera will discontinue the Walkera #4, #4-1 and replace with the new 2.4Ghz Walkera 4#. I guess the Chinese have run out of naming conventions and are just reversing the naming conventions. Anyway, you should check out if the Super Skids products can adapt to these new 2.4Ghz models before year end. Just a thought.

GTX SlotCar

Dane, the Esky HoneyBee FP (and new CP3) are also going with the different frame. For those and the Walkeras, SuperSkids400 and 200 should fit, but some may need Adapter22. The regular SLG300 series will still fit the Blade CP series and the Walkera 4 clones like the Exceed Falcon 40, etc.

Here is a Walkera 4G1B with superskids400, without the Adapter22. I used a SuperBoom in Hi-Tail fashion so the tail rotor stays well off the ground. Other Walkera helis will use a frame similar to the 4G1B.

One thing I forgot to mention about superblades is that they'll be weight matched within 5/100's of a gram [8D]

vrex

I want to install a HP05S brushless motor in my 4#3 and I am wondering which pinion I should use a 16 or 18

Mcflyman

Wow I see no one views this site much . Will I have a Super Modified DF4 forsale all parts are upgraded it has Alloy Blade holder and swashplate, rotor , the fram is CF and the the landing gear is also alloy no brakes on hard landing. Heli has a little wear and tear I do fly this heli now and then fly good will balanced and tracks like a hot knife threw butter. It come with Many, Many Xtras wooden blades CF blades. Also it has been converted to BeltDrive tail so no more tail motors. It come also with BL motor ESC and RX TX no servos. Also have forsale a Auto Pilot that works great for this Heli or any other also works great on Plane. PM me if you need more pics or have a offer

maxmax77

Hi, everybody!
If you're thinking about stopping helis because it's too expensive, go to stunt kites. They're a blast to fly, and even if you still want to fly helis, they're ridiculously fun. You can build your own, or smply buy one from a store/website. Don't think they get enough adrenaline pumping? [link=http://vimeo.com/2226661]check this flight out[/link]
I'm building that kite! if you have any questions about kites in general, PM me, or post in this forum.

happy-dingo

Hi all ..... was wondering if anyone has anything to do with the Walkera 76c 's ???

Mcflyman

hey happy I dont no much about the 76c , but I do have a Walkera RX TX that you can us for that heli for sale if you are having problems with yours. PM if interested.

happy-dingo

Hi Mcfly ....
Thanks for the offer ,  The  Tx is working fine I was wanting to find out what the correct dip switch settings were and also what the little click button on the front right hand side next to the toggle switch does or doesnt do
also if the toggle switches were just for looks or if they had a function ....

The #76c is a standard fixed pitch helli  but Walkera say it can be up graded to collective (the swash plate and head are suitable but you would need a new Rx and other ellectrics to make the transformation ...not that i would bother  )

Dingo

aluminum crusher

Hi all is the walker cb180q airwolf a good stable fixed pitch heli for a newy with some blade cx2 and mini blade msr experience. I also was thinking about the exceed madhawk 300 airwolf and are they easy to repair. Thanks call if you like 216-592-8585 Eric

clp.eng

My Feedback: (10)

Check out the new Walkera [link=http://www.walkera.com/en1/particular.jsp?pn=Z7UFLY]UFLY[/link]. This looks real promising for newer pilots. YouTube has some vids.

Chuck

msrfrog1

Hi
I have kept my broken df 4 under my bed for a few years and want a new one now 2.4ghz and lipos. any info or thought on the newer model?

[link=http://www.clubheli.com/assets/images/helicopters/4categoryimage.jpg]df4[/link]


thanks

clp.eng

My Feedback: (10)

msrfrog1 - I've been looking to replace my Walkera 4-1 mostly because it's hard to get the correct parts that work! I tried using the 4G1A head but have found the parts to be pretty brittle & damaged easily. I picked up a Guru-Z with 4G1B parts on it & they were pretty beat up & the aluminum seemed "soft".

The UFLY I referenced in a previous post looks interesting. Also, you might want to look at the Falcon 40 & the ESky Honey Bee. I think they are both cheaper & parts may be easier to get. One option I'm considering is a frame only Honey Bee if I can still find one & transfer the parts from my Walkera. Replacemnet parts are easier to find I'm told.

Whatever you decide to buy, save a little extra money for the new SuperBlades EZ from [link=http://www.super-skids.com/]SuperSkids[/link]. These are for hovering mostly. If you fly better than that he also has SuperBlades XP for more flying around. You might have to modify the blade holder slightly to get these to work depending on the heli you end up buying. Gary sent me a pair of each to try & even with a very badly flying 4-1, I noticed how much easier it was to hover. I haven't tried the XPs yet.

Good luck with your search & let us know what you get & how it flies.

Chuck