acebusa

The simulator is awesome It is almost exactly like flying my heli! I do have 2 sets of blade holders, and one flybar connector that I am willing to sell to anyone Interested. Paypal is prefered. I dont think The flybar connector dosent have any bearings with it, neither does the blade holders.

Ah Clem

Dennis,

Kill the throttle when you get in trouble. This should save you on all kinds of parts (including ESC's).!

Have you tried flying it outdoors yet. That will give you a little more space and a little more time to manuever.

Please keep posting on your progress. We all learn from each other's experiences.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Yea, I crashed outside too... LOL Havin great luck in the living room though. Not really gettin any altitude yet, but im concentrating on control and direction before I get onto UP. I have incorporated a muffin fan now to shorten charge and wait to cool time. Much better...
The stock batt last about 10 minutes when charged on my Triton. Im havin a blast now !!! I don't try to save it when it gets outta shape anymore. Aborting the flight is alot cheaper. LOL
I'll be sure to throw a party when I can finally hoover with no problem. Right now it's lookin like about 6 months. hahaha !!!

zacc

this is my reciever from my 22e can any one tell me the part that has a cross on it as this is the problem why tail motor speeds up and down by itself, any idea where i can get one
[img][/img]

acebusa

How do you know that is the faulty part?

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Im confused... tail rotor speed goes up and down ??? If the tail twitches, just turn down the gyro gain/delay. On the VNR 3D, the adjustment is labeled DELAY. It is a small adjustment screw which does have a so called cross on it (screwdriver slots). Is that what you talking about ? If that pot gets dirty, im sure it could make the tail do lots of weird things. The other adj is a speed limit adj for the tail motor, and could make things weird as well. You might try turning both adjustments up and down a few times to clean them, and then set them back to their origional position.

sfinckster

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Dennis, you are from Red Bluff, I am from Redding. Unfortunately I live in Kalispell MT right now but I am trying to get transferred back. Hopefully in a few months I will move back. By the way, I have turned my gyro settings and I did not note their original positions. Do you know where they should be set?

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

No I don't, but what I would do is set them both at 1/2 way for starters, then test. If the tail twitches, turn down the delay/gain. The other adj (limit) is tail rotor speed limit. You get the idea im sure. I can remove my cowling and tell you where my limit is set if you like. Remember, I have the Venom Night Ranger 3D, same as 22E I believe, but not absolutely positive their exactly the same, just what I hear... Let me know... Dennis

acebusa

I know my heli had somthing else wrong with the gyro, I turned the mixer screws all different places and mine still had eratic speeds, and if I tapped on the rx, the tail motor went crazy! Anybody had this problem before? If I knew what part in the reciever was bad, I would replace it. Thats why Im wondering how Zacc knew he needed that part, and what it was. Im not afraid to experiment with my reciever, just give me some Ideas and I will tear in to it.

sfinckster

My Feedback: (2)

I looked at that part on mine and it looks like a crystal but I don't think it is. I think it is an inductor of some kind. Mine has chinese writing on it and I don't know how to read chinese. I would even know how to go about cross referencing it. Acebusa, you can troubleshoot it by opening up the RX and unplug all but the tail motor and the battery. Try to cause the fault by gently pushing or tweaking different parts of the circuit board to narrow down the location. Then look at it with a jewelers loupe or high power magnifier in that spot and look for hairline fractures in solder connections. Also, well placed freeze spray could help locate the problem area. A lot of intermittant problems are caused by poor solder connections and judging by the workmanship on mine I would suspect it. Also look for cracked chip capacitors and resistors and look carefully at each leg on the larger IC's

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

OK, no problem... With it apart, but hooked up, tap or push around on the boards and see if you can find the sensitive area. If you can narrow it down, resolder all the joints in that area. You probably have a cold solder joint somewhere. Just reheat all the joints if ya got the time, and mark with a marks alot as you go. Add a little solder where ya think ya need it if obvious to you. Be sure to use a low heat (20-30 watt iron with a fine tip). Head to Radio Shack if ya don't have one yet. I bet if you redo all the solder joints on the boards, the problem will go away, unless you have a cracked crystal in the receiver. Be sure to tap on it a little too. Since the trouble is just in the tail rotor, my guess would be a cold solder joint. It may even be where the pot is soldered to the board. Dennis

acebusa

Ok, I tried to limit it down last week by moving all the parts but couldnt find any part that caused it by pushing on it with a plastic screwdriver. I looked for bad solder joints, couldnt find anything. ( doesent mean that I didnt overlook something though I wonder if it is the pot internal that is causing the problem. Theese are all good Ideas I appriciate the imput, and I will look into it some more now. Ill let you know tonight how it goes or sooner depending on if I find the problem.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Ans make sure you move thoses adj's back and forth (cleaning purposes) and test again. There just like a volume control on a radio, just smaller pots. Alot smaller. LOL

acebusa

ok thanks I will try now.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Good luck !!!

ginoe

i broke the same part [] though i did find a replacement :

http://www.walkera.com:8080/bbse/vie...384&highlight=

ginoe

where do you guys get your replacement parts?

acebusa

I get it on hobby estore [link]http://www.hobby-estore.com/electric-helicopter-parts.html[/link] I have used them once, and the parts arrived in about a week.

Ok..... on the subject of my gyro prob/receiver It wasn't a solder joint or anything like that, I kept messing with it and inspecting it, it would not mess up when I pushed on any individual part but when I turned the receiver over or bumped it the tail would almost stop than go erratic. I figured It must be a internal component that was bad. I was right I used zaccs theory and went right for that little silver part with the Chinese writing on it. I popped the top off it and found a broken wire. It is a strange looking part inside I tried to take a picture but It wouldn't focus on the part So I drew it instead. My drawing sucks but I wanted to show everyone.[img][/img] I had the part on another bad receiver. It did fix the problem However when I tried to fly it. (Note that I installed a gws direct drive to the tail) The tail was uncontrollable, If I barley pushed the stick left it would take off like crazy and spin left if I barley push the stick right, than it spins out of control right. The motor comes on too strong too fast. I tried adjusting the limit and the delay, nothing doing. I don't know now if there is something else wrong with the gyro/receiver or if it is the direct drive tail motor. I get my new receiver in a couple of days so Ill let you know.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I wish I could see that part your talking about. I can't tell in the drawing. Can you see where the loose end of the wire goes? The delay is for the gyro, the limit is for the tail motor. It seems to me, that the dd motor would turn too fast if something isn't turned down. Try the throttle trim too... The stock setup is geared down, so I can see why the motor with a rotor directly on it would be to fast. I would think that turning the limit down would fix that. I hope you can figure it out. I have all my fingers and toes crossed for ya Acebusa. Dennis

acebusa

I figured the same thing about the gear ratio, however the perpeller on the direct drive is smaller and not as steep of an angle on the blades, so it can spin faster and not push as hard, I tried lowering all the way the limit, and the delay both together and individually, it did not solve the problem. The other posibility is that the mixer is sending out too much volts too fast. I havent checked it with my meter yet. Also if the motor is made for a lower voltage than the 22e it could have the same affect. I will check it more tomorrow. Do you know what voltage the stock tail motor is? I have heard it is 3volts.

acebusa

Try this dennis
piece A is held in the air by the 4 wires, this is the lines drawn on the piece A. Two wires on one side go on the top and two on the bottom, the same on the other side.

The cube is soldered on the circuit board of the reciever with 4 solder joints.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

No clue, and there's no mention of it in the manual or parts list. I bet the higher end heli's give ya more technical info... Before I purchase my next one, im going to research it heavily. We really need more info to deal with these things correctly... The Venom manual really sucks for a tech guy. I want a full schematic for the receiver, a detailed setup for the rotor head, and specs on all servo's and motors. They should supply a service manual with these heli's so we understand what were working on... Dennis

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Acebusa, does the cube/can have a ajusting screw in the middle ? Im wondering if it is an IF Can for tuning the receiver. Can ya draw a big pic of just the part ? I mean big... LOL

acebusa

That is a huge drawing of it, The one that has the arrow for part a, If you click on enlarge image, and than click on the little box in the bottom right corner of the pic, with the arrows in it the picture will become almost as big as your screen, The actual part is about 8mm x 16mm. no screw to turn, just a super small part, Well I gotta go now, Ill talk more tomorrow. Thanks for your support thus far.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Unfortunatly, the numbers on the internal parts of these receivers and such are probably going to be manuf part numbers, and I don't mean the manuf of the components either. Only the factory tech's will have any accurate crossover info for replacement parts and industry numbers. Im off to the front room to see if all is well now. Clean shorts and all...