Joacim

Maby, it depends on how powerfull motor i can get my hands on also thinking abaout the 33% Giles for conversion.

Tweet

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I've thought about the Giles as well (can still fit it in my Honda Pilot). It is in another weight class compared to the Sukhoi and would require a definite step up in power systems.

mode_1

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Tom-
What is the glue you use to glue things to the inside of the fuse?
-Jim

mode_1

My Feedback: (2)

Tom-
What is the glue you use to glue things to the inside of the fuse?
-Jim

rctom

Epoxy, or better yet aeropoxy from Bob Violett Models.

TF

SAL98

My Feedback: (6)

Hey flier, In post 32 I noticed that you had the fuel nipple pointing in a different direction, not to mention the original black 90degree nipple had been replace.

How did you change out the nipple, when I tried to turn mine it felt like it would break before it actually unseated itself. Mine points right in the way of the throttle linkage.

Also you have a 26 X 10 on that engine yet your runnig a stock muffler. In the mvvs video they stated 5995 rpm's with a jmb cannister. Can you post your rpm readings once you start up your engine, Im really interested to know because I am looking at that type of setup for the WH 260.

crhammond

My Feedback: (21)

I just wanted to add a couple of pics of my build to this thread - for the most part I followed flier's excellent build notes/tips. I think there are still a few more folks building the last of these awesome planes. It's too bad these aren't being made any more. I know the $900+ price would have been way too high but what you got for $650 was really, really worth it. I'm thoroughly enjoying building mine (but I won't be flying it for quite some time as I'm still not an experienced enough flyer... I'm flying Intermediate pattern and Basic IMAC this year so maybe at the end of the summer when I've got a bunch more stick time...)

I built the radio tray using the suppied trays - modified - I shortened and glued the tray for the throttle and choke servos to the rudder tray (it's slightly elevated.)
You can see in the pics how I chose to mount my radio tray in the fuse. I used Aeropoxy to glue hardwood blocks to the side of the fuse and the wing tube sleeve so that the tray is screwed in and therefore removable. I used gromets betwen the hardwood blocks and the tray to add a little vibration absorbtion.

For putting the servos in the stabs I had to widen the openings in the root about 2mm top and bottom. I tried using the phenolic arm with Airwild round aluminum horns - but the horns are too thick and the phenolic arm will not line up with the slots. I gave up looking for small aluminum wheels so instead I used AW 1.25" MLP horns. To do this I had to space the servo out 4mm from the mounting block. To do this I used some 4mm thick 2.5mm lock nuts - these hold the screws in place and make an otherwise painful job very easy. To fish the servo wire I first fished a string through the hole (using a nut for a weight) and then used this to easily fish the servo end through.

Other than these changes I have done exactly what Flier has done (except I made my motor standoffs from hardwood dowels.) I still have to complete the canopy, mount the stabs and mount the servos in the wings.

A couple of other tips I recommend:
Download the one of the comp-arf manuals for a few more tips around making alignment jigs for the control horns and mounting the canopy in particular
Give the plane 2 or 3 coats of automotive wax to protect the paint during and after the build (deepens the colors and makes the plane look great too)
Definately invest in some BVM aeropoxy - this is really great stuff that you will find other uses for
The Phenolic horns on mine looked like they were not aligned with the hinge line... but if you mount them so that the root of the horn runs parallel to the stab surface (i.e. not straight up and down) and then use a ruler to check them you will see that they are in fact in-line (on mine it was an optical illusion that they were out.)

Tom - thanks for designing this awesome model. If it flies 1/2 as good as it looks it will be stunning.

slunicku

My Feedback: (24)

I maidened my Sukhoi today. It was great, needs minor pitch coupling for knife-edge, but that´s it. Equiped with Hitec 5955 on all control surfaces, engine MVVS58 ProSport with Evolution 58GX Pitts Style Muffler, prop Mejzlik 24x10, turns at 6,650rpm.

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mode_1

My Feedback: (2)

Hi.

Does yours porpoise on final like mine and my friends? I'm thinking of adding flaperons to it to kill some of the lift and stop the porpoising. thanks!
-Jim

slunicku

My Feedback: (24)

I just had 3 flights, but so far no issue with porpoising.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Regarding the "porpoising" on final thing. I was only able to get a couple of flights on the prototype plane but one thing I noted was that this Sukhoi would fly a lot slower than I thought it would. Meaning that if you carry as much speed (which isn't much) on final as you would with any other of the 28% planes you would be too fast to "settle" onto to the mains. I dead sticked the prototype in on the last flight I had with her, and thinking it would land like anything else set up my approach at the usual distances and altitudes. Wrong idea! She's a very clean airplane and and does not bleed much speed when he nose is down. I needed a bit more room to slow down enough for a good point landing and instead floated the length of the field, with several bounces trying to land before the plane was ready to stop flying.

Take her up about 2 mistakes high and slow her down to where she'll finally fall off in a stall. Get her to go into a stall break right in front of you, it will be surprising to see how slow she is flying. That directly relates to the approach speed on final. Just try starting the approach a little lower than usual and a touch farther out.

I'm still badgering RTK to get his out to the field so we can fly it. Too bad the manufacturer (Extreme) got greedy and wouldn't pay enough attention to parts locations and fits during the manufacturing process cuz this would have been a good long term product. I guess we'll just have to wait for the larger version and see how it goes from there.

Pat

flyrccg

My Feedback: (25)

slunicku,
She looks nice. I have a 58 I'm putting in a QQ Yak. Very strong motor. Where do you fly? I'd like to see it in person.

666

looks awesome!

crhammond

My Feedback: (21)

mode_1

You need to land it like a bigger plane... slow it right down.
My procedure is to make my down wind at just enough throttle to maintain fuse level level flight at 50ft up (thats less than 1/4 throttle)
Turn on to your last leg, slow to about 2 clicks throttle by slowly clicking back keeping the fuse level with elevator
Cut the throttle and turn on to final at about 30 ft up. This turn will bleed off your remaining energy.
Feather the throttle as needed keeping the fuse level.
Once your over the runway you can either stall to a 3-pointer or let it settle for a nice slow wheel landing.

Wheel landings are sweet with the tall gear.

Adjust as needed if you have a head wind - you'll need a bit more throttle on the final if its windy.

Birddog-RCU

My Feedback: (62)

I haven't flown it yet but thought I would post a few photos of my Wildhare composite Sukhoi. Hitec digitals all around, Ralph Cunningham G62 on EI.

cstevec

My Feedback: (1)

You guys might think I am nuts but I put a 3W 70 in mine. I wound up with an awesome combination.I'll throw up some pictures one of these days.

koen330

Hi,

Im in the process of building the Sukhoi.

I have a question about installing the tail wheel.

At the back of the fuselage where you have to install the tail wheel, there is a curved "bult" in the fuselage. (see picture)

According to me this is hollow. The mounting block is glued in the fuselage.

Which tailwheel is best to use? How do you fix it.

thanks,

Koen

rctom

Wild Hare has never sold that plane in Europe, and we only sold a few in the US, the last being over a year ago.

I don't remember any details, I suggest you contact whoever sold it to you, it's their responsibility to support you.

TF

koen330

I can always try via the forum, maybe someone remembers...

Koen

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Any "haigh" type tailwheel with a round type spring rod will work. Ohio Superstar makes them in several sizes, along with J&J, a new manufacturer that can be found on another forum. Ohio usnits come with a "U" shaped aluminum bracket that can be bent to fit the fuse shape. Just like a Comp Arf Yak, the tailwheel can be secured with plastic electrical wiring clamps. Use 4 of them, two and two facing opposite directions. A flat spring tailwheel is very difficult to mount and make look good.

Birddog-RCU

My Feedback: (62)

I lost the thumb screw nuts that hold the wing on. Can someone tell me what size they are so I can order replacements?

rctom

I think they are 6mm, and I believe Comp Arf uses the same size knobs.

Birddog-RCU

My Feedback: (62)

Thanks Tom.

Sukhoi4Me

Guess I missed the boat on the composite Suk... What size are you talking about on a "larger" version??

Birddog-RCU

My Feedback: (62)

By chance does anyone have a spare set of wings for this aircraft they would like to sell? Don't ask why I need them.... @#$!