I am building a 260 with a BME 110. It is the version with a single prop bolt. I am using a Pete models carbon fiber spinner. I Had the spinner Knurled. Is anybody using this setup and have you had problems with your prop slipping? I am considering sending my engine in to be converted to the 6 bolt pattern, but I have already drilied both of my 28x10 Mejzliks to 7/16 and BME's new 6 bolt hub is 10mm.

Will my setup work as is?

Your setup will be fine. I run carbon fiber on my 100 & did the backplate knurling myself. I don't even run the 2 locator bolts. Mine has never slipped. Don't be afraid to "Herc" on the prop nut & do use a washer between the prop washer & the prop nut.

Would you recomend using a double nut for the prop nut?

Do you perodically check yours for tightness?

I didn't. but it depends on the type of prop. With a CF prop, the prop hub does not compress so the second nut might work the first one loose. With wood, it probably wouldn't hurt.

Did you have a Carbon Fiber Prop and A Pete Models Carbon Fiber Spinner?

You mentioned a new BME 110. Does this one have a 6 bolt pattern? If so, do you know who's pattern it matches? And if not, who will do a 6 bolt pattern?

The BME 110 is a single bolt hub and it works just fine. For those that may be curious, the Brison 6.4 (105) is also a single bolt hub.

I have some experience with both engines and you will not have any problems if you remember to tighten the prop nut. A second jamb nut is not necessary for either engine. Steve's suggestion to use a washer between the prop face washer that came with the engines and the nut is an excellent one.



Edit,

Thinking back, I may be incorrect with the BME. It may have pins or a multi bolt option. I'm not near any engines for a while so checking is not possible. Ralph, where are you so you can help clear this one up for me?

Pat

did you ever try one with a pete models spinner backplate? It has no knorling ie smooth. I have heard that the knurled truturn and a tight nut works fine, but I have also heard that the CF spinner backplates being smooth(non-knurled) slips. I sent my backplate to pete models and had them knurl it, but the knurls are not as pronounced as a Trueturn. I am concerned about this because I have a $90 spinner, a $75 prop on a $1200 engine...

Ben

Mine is New in the fact I have never run it but it was manufactured a year ago. The ones made now will have a 10mm shaft and a 6 bolt pattern, it matches 3W and DA 100. The older version had a single 7/16 bolt and two short bolts that only engaged the spinner backplate.

Thanks dntmn. That means my Dalton 260 is probably going to have a BME 110 in it.

I have only used a non-knurled back plate spinner on a 50cc engine. That one works fine. I was actually rather surprised to find that it would work as well as it does.



Edit,
I should make note that the back plate is aluminum, and that I did cut some reliefs into it with a Dremel. I wouldn't even consider doing that to a C/F spinner back plate.

My pete models carbon fiber spinner has an thin aluminum backplate, the spinner itself is carbon fiber. This backplate is much thinner aluminum that a trueturn type, because the retaining screws goes in the side and don't put pressure on the backplate this backplate is 1/2 the thickness and weight of a true turn type and has no knurls. I sent it to pete models and had it knurled but the knurls are much less pronounced than what you see on a trueturn.

http://www.geocities.com/pierrejac/cf-spinner.htm

PS: pete modeles is also making a Mejzlik clone prop that is on the average one oz lighter than a mejzlik. you can see them at troybuilt.com

Dan, if it were me, I would get keith to redo the hub for the 6-bolt pattern then you wouldn't even think twice about a prop slipping. You can insert a "shim" in the hole to get the i.d. to 10mm. You should have easy access to a machinist where you work now for doing the props. The other angle to prop slippage is that the old CH ignitions that Keith used has a bad habit about being out of time. I still remember the "flap" I received in my heavy leathered gloved right hand when I started Mike Donovan's BME 102 and it backfired!! The new iginitions Keith uses not are much more reliable.

Bobby

Bobby,
I couldn't agree more. Keith at BME is making me some adaptor bushings and changing out my hub. I am shipping him the engine tomorrow.

Dan P

Dntm, I won't say that it is not money well spent but it probably isn't necessary. I run the same spinner you do & a Biela CF prop. I did the knurling of the center myself with a heavy wire wheel I after 7 gallons of fuel mine hasn't slipped a bit. I do torque the devil out of it any time I remove it though. There are a number of people who removed the 2 small guide bolts & replaced them with longer ones which go all the way through the backplate & prop. I think this is a false sense of security as one good backfire would snap them right off because they are so small. Mine needless to say has never backfired. I guess I am torqueing my prop nut down at right at 40 lbs of force and it has never slipped. Don't be afraid of that engine but do treat it with respect & it won't give you any trouble.

Cstevec,
That was my origional Plan. So went to my workshop and installed the spinner and prop I used a 12" cressant wrench and tightned the sh%t out of it. The next day I took it apart to see if the knurling embeded into the prop and it did so I proceded to Tighten the Sh%t out of it agian. Well I did two things wrong #1 I did not have a metal washer between the nut and aluminum prop washer and #2 The stud was not enguaging enough threads fully and I striped them. It would no longer tighten. I desparatly headed to Home depot and on the way gave Keith at BME a Call. I was going to find a longer stud and retap the engine.
I wanted to go to the 6 bolt but the 6 bolt has a 10mm shaft and I had already drilled 2 Mejzlik 28x10's and my spinner backplate 7/16". Keith offered to replace the Hub with a 6 Bolt and custom make me some bushings so I could use my prop and spinner as drilled. He is also sending me a new stud bolt and prop washer. And all I am paying for is the 6 bolt Hub...Now that is customer service!

I have had my 110 for a couple of years now and as long as I tighten the nut well it has not slipped yet. My hub has the two cap head screws in it. Therefore you must drill out the back plate of your spinner.

I guess I am just lazy, but drilling all those holes and taking out all those bolts is a pain.
Some manufactures make there bolts so soft that by the third time you remove them you have to replace them.
I like the one nut design. Oh and always use a washer as stated previously