I just picked up a 33% Wildhare giles 202. This plane came with a brand new brison 4.2 I believe. It has all the control rods and everything connected to it still. The guy I got it from flew it with a 50cc thor motor. My question is I am no aerobatic flyer, I like cruising and a couple loops and aileron rolls. I was thinking about using 2 hitec 645mg's at each control surface. Will this be enough. Basically I want a fun flyer on a budget. If this will not work please give me advice as to what will work.
Thankyou,

Wild Hare has never made a 33% G-202. Their first plane was a 35% G-202. The only other one they've made is the latest version at 41%. The 35% original would have never flown with a 50cc engine because it weighed in at around 25 or 26 pounds with a 100cc engine. The best you could hope for would be around 23 pounds with a 50cc engine on a 35% Giles.

Your pictures won't open up for me.

Sorry for the pictures, rcu seems to have a problem right now. It is red and white with blue stripe. It is 96" I believe.

OK, pictures ae working now. It looks like a 35% Wild Hare, 93" span. I have one too. Your servos are not up to the task and a 75cc engine will be about the smallest that will fly it with any strength. There are quite a few 80's on the used market at the moment.

BTW, It's a very nice flying plane when set up correctly.

Thanks tired. Where do you have your cg set for a mild flyer.

Middle of the wing tube is the best you can have and remain stable. More forward make it snappy and fast for landing. No more forward the front of the wing tube, but middle is better.

I second the middle of the wing tube recommendation. Mine was (is) the best on-a-line snapping plane I have. It is a big pattern plane.

Set up for precision it is very true on a line. When I was flying it I wasn't into 3D at all, but once I cranked up the elevator throw it would do a respectable harrier when forced beyond the stall, although it requires a lot more rudder dancing than an Edge or Extra.

I think I had about 7% top aileron and 4% elevator to rudder mix, can't remember which way (I think it was UP elevator to either rudder). With that mix it flew horizon to horizon knife edge without any corrections. In fact I could do it left-handed (elevator and ailerons on right stick), and "I am naht a lefta-handed".

Princess Bride was on TV the other day, couldn't resist.

Thanks everyone, Are there anymore tips for this plane.

Just not to over control her. It responds very well to small inputs. It prefers that the rudder is used to exit an inverted flat spin. No opposite rudder and it might take a few extra revolutions to get out of it. The 35% is not the 3d animal that the 40% is, but it's still a real nice plane.

Hey T.O.M...just curious...Where do yu have your CG set on your 40% Giles?

Same place, center of the wing tube. Tried more forward but it carries too much speed for landings that way and floats waaay down the runway while the speed bleeds off.

Does that setting make the plane fly hands off inverted?

Here's my view of a planes C/G. It may not be right but it has worked for me with every plane I have flown.

I'm looking for a plane that flies the same upright or inverted. Most all the planes in my hanger have airfoiled horizontal stabs, which means they are lifting surfaces. The purpose of a tail mounted lifting surface (stabilizer) is to counter the weight of the nose. I want the tail of my planes to fly with zero trim input because any offset of the elevator incurred from trim translates to drag, wastes power, and any trim one direction will need to be countered in the other direction. The difference between upright and inverted if you will. All this is determined at a "medium" flight speed. The reasoning there is that my planes have plenty of power to maintain level flight at a medium speed and any required increase in power is intended to either climb and/or perform a vertical maneuver, or help counter the effects of gravity in a bank. My planes don't need anywhere close to full power for level flight maneuvering.

The best way I have found to locate and use that zero horizontal stab trim point is by moving the C/G. If the C/G is too far forward the tail will need up trim, too far aft and down trim is needed. Either way if I have a few clicks of trim in one direction I'll need to fight it with stick input when the plane is rolled over. So regardless of where any manufacturer states the C/G should be located I'll alter that location until I have zero elevator trim to fly the plane straight and level. Most manufacturers use what could be called a "safe" C/G location in the area of 25 to 27% of MAC. It's almost impossible to have an unstable plane in that area. Unfortunatey that's usually nose heavy, much too stable, and they require a faster approach speed to prevent what some might call a tip stall, need to fly faster through manuevers to prevent breaking off to one side or the other in a tight maneuver, and "float" down the runway while bleeding off flight speed. It creates much too much work to have fun flying like that.

After all that has been done I'll move on to other types of trim or mixing. Typically after the C/G is established all the rest of the trimming is pretty easy to do. The C/G effects everything the plane does so there's little point in dealing with engine thrust offsets or coupling mixes until the C/G is "happy". Which takes us back to why I prefer a zero/zero initial engine thrust line. I can't know what it needs until the C/G is established. It's easy to trim a plane that starts out "neutral".

I know about all that...The purpose of my question was since you already fly a WH 40% Giles and I'm just setting mine up, I figured you could save me some trouble with installing my gear, particularly the rudder servos, for 0/0 trimmed wing & horizontal (I also know that in order for an airfoil to lift, it has to have some degree of a PAOA,therfore making it impossible to set the CG for hands-off/no trim level flight in both upright AND inverted flight.), so that it would be hands-off inverted. I understand mfgrs. are conservative with CG recommendations but, like you, I prefer a neutral CG...With that said, will the center of the tube accomplish this? I am aware, using a DA100 will make interior gear placement critical for achieving proper CG without adding tail weight.

Thanks in advance.

Using a DA-100 I had to locate one of the 2 battery packs in the tail, and the other one uder the turtledeck in order to get it to balance properly with a pull-pull rudder.

With that in mind 2 servos with pushrods weigh about 5 oz. 1 Battery pack weighs 6 ounces, so putting two rudder servos in the tail should have about the same effect as moving a battery pack back. So you should be able to put one or two battery packs under the turtledeck (build a little platform) and two rudder servos in the tail and you should be very close. It might require a bit more tail weight or a lighter spinner to get exactly where you want.

Nobody can tell you exactly what to put where, but this will get you close.

TF

Thanks Tom. I know we discussed this before, but the more I thought about the rudder servos in the tail, I finally decided to put them in a pull/pull configuration instead. I'm using an SWB self-adjusting servo tray and I intend to mount it further back in the fuselage. I am using 3 A123 batteries (2300mah). The ignition batt I have already mounted on the tube. I have a C/F spinner and will be using a lighter weight wood prop...Looks like I'll need to instal the 2 Rx batteries directly in the tail.

It will be close to what you seek. The DA is not the lightest engine, but it's a good one for sure, so minor movement will be required. The 40% Giles does not like being nose heavy. A little "push" when inverted is about as close as you'll get to true neutral. A very little push...

Set all the batteries asa far back as you can before doing anything with rudder servo(s). You may find that two tail mounted rudder servos is what it takes to balance right. I wrapped plumbing solder around the tailwheel spring wire to get mine where I wanted it. I was too lazy to build an aft battery tray Do not use an aluminm spiinner. It's too much weight up front.

Thanks, T.O.M. I appreciate the info!

BTW: Poorwboy...My apologies for hijacking your thread...Sorry[sm=red_smile.gif]

Hey tom I emailed about getting some info on the 35% giles. Do you have a owners manual for this plane?

You can use the surface travels that all the other 35% planes use. Those are pretty standard while being safe and effective. Your choice to using 1 or 2 servos for the ailerons. There should be 3 pockets in each wing. Jst make a choice of one or two. If you go with one make it a very good servo and great linkage. No cutting corners.

With the above there really isn't much else needed to get the plane in the air.

Here is a link for the manual: http://web.archive.org/web/200501280...les+manual.pdf