First of all Props to Tom and everybody at Wild Hare RC, this is a great plane. The shipping was fast, 3 days and I had it in my hands.

Second, I know I am not supposed to put it together before Iget the engine mounted but Ijust couldn't resist. Here are a few pics of it before I start trying to build it.

<p align="center"><font size="2" color="#ff6600">Nice looking plane...Where do you acquire the <font color="#ff0000">ARMY</font> decals/stickers ?     .</font></p>

If he did it the same way I obtained USMC graphics, it might have been at a stateside base PX.

Eric over at B and Graphix did those for me. They look great don't they?

<p align="center"><font color="#ff6600">THEY LOOK GREAT !!!!!
Did you mean  B and E Graphix located at:
http://www.bandegraphix.com/</font></p>

Yes, Iforgot the "E".

I am about to glue the rudder on, and was wondering what type of glue folks would recommend. Ihave heard that I can use Thick CA, THin CA, gorilla Glue, etc... If anyone has any input before I mess this thing up.

Crash

I use epoxy on mine, but have heard a lot of people really like Gorilla glue. Make sure you use Vaseline or some kind of oil so the hinge joint stays loose

I use gorilla glue- the stuff that looks like a light coffee color, the consistency ofmolasses... the reason I clarify, is that they (gorilla glue) are coming out with a bunch of different products.
I take a q-tip, and dip it in water, and flick off most of it. just so it's wet, but not dripping. insert it into the hinge holes down the surfaces to be glued. (I like to do them all, one side at a time, but I think you have the fast build and only require the rudder to be completed) The reason for the water, is that it activates the gorilla glue and makes the expansion process begin. I also use a fine oil, which I had to oil the bearings in a heli. it has a cool applicator tip like a blunt syringe. I just put a couple drops in the hingeknuckle, and cycle the hinge a couple times to work it into it. then, I take the q-tip, and pull all of the cotton off of it, and use this as the applicator for the glue. I re dip only three times, and you wouldn't think it's enough, but after a couple hinging jobs you'll realize that too much is a bad thing as it expands. Once applied in the hinge hole (one side at a time - either the fuse, or the rudder not both at the same time) I then insert the hinge into the hole and ensure that the center of the hinge is at the center of the bevel, then turn the hinge to the side. this will show you if the hinge is out of square. with it deflected to the side, make sure the hinge is 90* to the surface, and that they all areparallel to each other. one last thing, is to position the plane s that the excess glue will run down over the hinge inside the surface. ie. the fuse pointed up for the hinges in the vert stab, and then when you repeat for the rudder itself, nose down when drying.

Long winded, but hope this helps!
KM

Also, you will find that the glue will encrust the hinge knuckle once cured and will have expanded into a hard foam around the knuckle. some suggest to wipe off the excess with a damp cloth from around the knuckle, but I prefer to let it do it's thing and cut it off with a dull x-acto blade afterwards. I feel that when yo wipe it off, you are actually wiping it into the knuckle. rather than just peeling it off at the end. This is a two step process for both sides of the surface, but in my opinion, far superior... I epoxied the rudder on my WH Sukhoi in haste, and realized that more than half of the rudder hinges failed at the glue joint. time well spent in the beginning with gorilla glue.

Thanks, I followed your directions and hinged the rudder,  Now all I have left is to put in the pull pull rudder controls.  I am having trouble finding some good instructions on this. 

Has anyone built one of these with a DA-50?  If so, what length were your stand offs?

with my da-50 i used 3" with 1/4 spacers and it gave me 1/8 at cowl or just flat washers until you get your disired space.
<br type="_moz" />

<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="font-size: medium">Imitation is flattery. B&amp;EGraphis does a great job on their vinyl. I have another design I'm working on for my red/white/blue Wild Hare Extra 300. Gonna look killer!!!

Here's mine when I finished it last year:</span>
















</div>

Jason,

Your bird was on You Tube, that is what inspired me.  That and I the the folks down at R&amp;R will pay me for advertising the army for them :P

WO1 David Qualls
SC, ARARNG, USA

But.......where does it say Wild Hare?????

Mine was a solid white special order and never had any WH logos or graphics on it.

I brag that it is a WHbird all the time, Ijust didn't want any logos on it other than my Army scheme that I designed and got permision from DOA to use.

Jon

Gorgeous!!!

I have been searching for those 3 1/2 inch stand offs, and cannot find them anywhere. Does anybody know where I can buy a set of the aluminium standoffs?


Crash

My guess is your not going to find 3-1/2" stand offs. You can usually get 3" from several sources including Wild Hare, TBM, Desert Aircraft to just name a few. What I usually do is use 3" standoffs and make up the difference with a glued in place 1/2" plywood spacer. I just back up two 1/4" ply squares (1") square and glue them to the firewall.
Another alternative is to go to TBM and order 1/2" standoffs (which they sell) and use them as spacers to get to the 3-1/2" total.
Thanks
Barry

Ok, here is the update. Do not ever put your hands into an APC prop on a Saito 180, it will remove your fingers. I now have a new nickname "chopper". Ok now to the situation at hand.

I have just hung the DA 50 on the front of my Edge 540, as illustrated by the pictures below. I got my stand off from TBM and they worked perfectly. Now I come to the part where I have to cut the cowl to fit the motor, and this is where I become fearful of my building skills. the back plate of the spinner is 11 1/4 inches from the filrewall, and the center of the muffler canister is 5 1/2 inches from the firewall. How would be the best way to guage the exact place to cut the cowl?

Tape pieces of poster board (available at art and stationary stores) on the fuselage without the cowl, extending past where the engine is located. Make your cut outs in the poster board. Make the cut outs tight. Without removing the poster board, remove your engine and mufflers then install the cowl with the cut out poster board outside the cowl. Mark the cowl through the holes previously made in the poster board. Adjust the tight hole size for better clearance after the primary cut and fit is done.

Tired Old man, thanks for the reply. I have done what I think you were trying to tell me. Please look at the following pictures and tell me if I am thinking the way you told me to.

Crash

Well, I broke down and got the dremmel tool out today, and with great apprehension started cutting the cowl. Below are the pictures of the outcome. It looks like there is a slight offset between the back plate and the cowl, is this normal or at least withing tolerances?

You have the right concept with the poster board.

The offset is normal due to the right thrust built into the firewall.

Flyboy, you need more right thrust and your standoffs are too long, the spinner should be tighter to the cowl. And smooth out the edges of the cut out for the engine allow more room for the engine to shake a bit