gcflies

Hi,

What to use to compress the crankshaft ring in order to fit the crankshaft back into the case?

I could not get a piston ring compressor that could extend deep enough into the crankcase...

Thanks in advance.

Gcflies.

gcflies

Resolved.

Found a thread on the same topic for a FZ115

spaceworm

Please to share the information with us? Thanks

Sincerely, Richard

gcflies

Lol...i am still attempting..not yet successful

The post I read was
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/ys-e...-assembly.html


gcflies

gcflies

Got the shaft in!!!

Pic #1 Pic#2

Basically by trial and error I found a cable tie that was sufficiently long to tie around the counter weight, thin enough to squeeze between case body and counterweight, and wide enough to cover portion of the shaft ring and part of counter weight aft of the ring, so that when the cable tie was tightened, the ring and the counterweight were flush.

1. Lub the case interior and the cable tie plenty.
2. Inserted the shaft all the way into the case until the shaft ring touched the case. (Pic#1)
3. From the opening for the cylinder, I slowly and patiently squeezed and pushed the cable tie to wrap around the shaft counterweight and the shaft ring. I had to try a couple of times before I finally managed. (Pic#1. Note that the cable tie shown was too short. I had to redo the whole process with a longer tie)
4. Secured the cable tie around the crank counterweight and over a portion of the shaft ring. I backed my shaft away from the original position stated in #2 in order to properly secure it. Secure the cable tie as tight as possible to ensure the ring is compressed. I pulled with a pair of pliers. (Pic #2)
5. Then I pushed the shaft forward again, and attempted to install the shaft ring into the case housing.
6. For me, the ring only went in a little. I carefully removed the cable tie while still using my fingers pressing the shaft forward, not wanting the ring to back out.
7. I found that I had to use my thumbs to push down the part of the ring still being exposed in the cylinder opening, while attempted to push the shaft forward. After some number of attempts, the shaft finally went in with the ring fully in.
8. I then used the rubber handle of a small pliers to tap on the back of the shaft to ensure that the shaft was fully inserted in.
9. I then installed the cam gear and tried to see if the shaft and the gear could be rotated without binding. If it did and if the cam gear seemed to be seated properly, then it meant that the shaft was not fully inserted.
10. Finally I installed the piston and back cover to check that it could be closed properly, and I could.
11. Checked shaft rotation, no binding...

done! I Learnt something new again...

gcflies

petec

My Feedback: (58)

Yeah the sealing ring can be a real little bugger sometimes.

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

Glad you got it in. have you read the engine yet?

gcflies

Not sure on your question "read the engine"

I just completed the rebuilding.

Not yet fired it up...waiting for fuel to arrive.

Thank you!

gcflies.

drac1

My Feedback: (4)

On the 140's and up, (where the cylinder doesn't come off), I position the ring gap at 12 'O' clock, then put a 2 thou feeler guage past the ring into the housing at around 4 and 8 'O' clock. Push the crank in untill it stops, then while holding pressure on the crank, push the ring into the groove at the gap with 2 small flat blade screw drivers. The ring will then slide in and pull the feeler guages out. This is the best method I've found and it should work on the smaller engines.

gcflies

Cool drac1!!!

Simple and fast.
Will do it this way the next time round.
thanks for sharing

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

GC sorry meant ran maybe auto correct put in read for me.

gcflies

airraptor,

Thanks for asking.
Got it fired up alright.
Nipple on crankcase that connects to regulator is now loose.
JB Weld it back and test again later

Posted the loose nipple issue as a regulator related issue in another thread...

thanks and cheers
gc