Hello,

I was just curious where is a good place to get good information / specs about YS engines? i.e. Something more descriptive than the one paragraph about the YS-63 on Central Hobbies site? I'm planning on purchasing 2 YS-63's in the near future for a project, and I would just like to know a little more about them. (I don't have one specific question about them.....I just want a better understanding of the features and such)

Thank You

Hopefully the attachments will be of some help....

Thanks for the information. Any little bit is nice. But I was also thinking along the lines (Sorry I didn't mention it) about the overall dimensions of either the YS-63 or the YS-53 (if they are different) Like I mentioned above I am planning on getting these for a project and am curious about the room I'll have to work with. Overall height, width, length, possibly center of crank in comparison to bottom of crank case etc.

Edit: I know some of these dimensions are on the above post. But a main measurement I need is the center of crank to bottom of case.....and also wondering if in fact the 53's are the same measurements all around?

Thanks again

The 53 and 63 are basically the same engine. The motor was bored out to give the 63. Now the new 63S with the regulator no longer part of the case of the engine is a slightly different motor but its built on the same chassis as the original 53. 53's are no longer produced and have not been produced since about 1997-1998

Weights are the same or within a few grams.

This engine will compete in the power department with OS 70's and Saito 72's It will for the most part pull like a really strong 46-50 2 stroke engine. Props sizes will be slightly larger than the 46 2 stroke. 12-7, 13-6 is a good prop for the 63.

for specifics got to

www.yspartsandservice.com

and go to the owners manuals. Weights, bore, stroke numbers and such are on the owners manual page #1

Also

www.centralhobbies.com has information on the various engines on their site as well.

Troy Newman
Team YS performance

One more question: I know that the 53's haven't been produced since the late 90's, but the reason I keep refering (or comparing) the 53 to the 63S is because my cousin has a few 53's and he is VERY pleased with them. So from his knowledge on the 53's I have a "baseline" to judge the information given here about the 63S against.

That out of the way.....my next (hopefully last) question is about carburetion between the two (53 and 63S) I know from reading about them, that the regulator has been repositioned to run cooler. But is the carb setup, design, or "calibration" etc. the same?

I'm sorry I ask so many questions about this.....but I'm trying to go into "uncharted waters" with this project of mine, and would like to know all the potential drawbacks before I drop $500 on a pair of 63S's (Literally water....I need a large sized 4-stroke for a twin engine deep-vee boat I'm building. But no company offers one anymore, so I plan to convert the 63S hopefully)

Thanks Again

My opinion is there is nothing lost in the 53 to 63 to 63S versions. I believe as with all YS engine generations each change is for the better.

I'm not sure how much luck you will have with 63's or even 53's in a boat application. YS engines are designed to be very powerful but anyone that owns one will tell you that cooling is important with any YS engine. The pressurized fuel system can be very heat sensitive. The 63FZ was changed to the 63S because the type of model the engine was being put in. Hovering and 3D doesn't allow much cooling, and when the engine gets hot it doesn't respond as well. Moving the pressure regulator external of the engine case helps to keep the fuel cooler before it enters the engine.

I don't say this to discourage you just these engines are designed around model airplanes that fly, and when they fly the air cooling them mis pretty important.

Troy Newman
Team YS Performance

Thank you for your response.

I understand the problem / concern about cooling the engines (it is my biggest worry) but I have done a lot of searching, reading, e-mailing, etc. and have ran into many people that have taken non water cooled nitro engines and made "cooling coils" out of copper tubing. Where they take small copper tubing and tightly wrap it from the cylinder base all the way up to the head, the cool water is either forced (suction from driving the boat across the water) or pumped (with an electric water pump) thru the tubing and "spit" back into the lake after it has cycled around the engine. This method has worked very well in each situation I have come along in my research. Obviously none have used this exact engine (or I wouldn't be here asking all these questions) So lets say IF I have the cooling situation under control??? I'm just trying to plan for any other "major" hurdles.

I also know that I have to make a custom belt start flywheel (obviously since I won't be running an airplane prop) I have a lathe and machinging skills (so I would pretty much copy / compare a similar sized marine flywheel and would adapt it to fit the YS)

Attached are a couple "in progress" shots of my boat (just so you don't think this is all a pipe dream)

Cool Paint work.

Sounds like it should work. I would say watch the RPMS on the engines, not sure where the limit would be, but with 4 strokes you can float the valves and this will not be good. I would say 12,000-13,000 rpm should be OK you might be able to go higher but I have no idea how high? Then if the props come out of the water as it could really unload......Just be careful.

The 63S with its pressure regulator away from the case would be better than the 53. Also you could try putting the pressure regulator in a really cool place further away from the engine.

I would suggest the 30% Cool Power Heli fuel so it will cool better. The idea of higher nitro means you will have to open the needles to get mixture correct. this means more fuel, but also more oil flowing through the engine. More fuel means cooler running.

This 30% heli fuel will also help with transition and idle especially when heat is concerned.




Good Luck and keep us posted

Troy Newman
Team YS Performance

Thank you for the quick replies (very nice to have help!)

Thanks for the compliment on the paint (I own a custom hod rod / paint shop) so that's how I make a living, it is also what get's me into these situations.......CUSTOM.....I am never content or satisfied with anything normal or easy. I always have to be thinking outside the box, or a different (not necessarily better) just different way of doing things.

The max rpm is a great point also. Beings a 4-stroke engine I could "throw" a larger diameter prop on each drive also (which should help lower the revs a bit) Since they are 4-strokes they should have no problem swinging them. Plus the custom flywheel could be made so it would run best in a certain rpm range also.

The fuel is a perfect suggestion, and makes perfect sense. Lastly moving the regulators would be no problem as I have plenty of room in the hull.

Many thanks. I'll keep you posted when I get nearing the end.