YS Mount
#1
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From: Marsa, MALTA
hi troy which mount should I use for the 160DZ I am going to use these Probuild Universal Anti-vibration Mount and Gator ISO Damp Ribbed Grommets (Firm) these is the mount that I am wont to use is it good
#3
Senior Member
I prefer the Hyde Mount and the actual Yamada Super mount.
The Mount you show above may be fine in some applications by I find I fly enough that motor mount and its vibration dampening ability is important to me. For this reason I choose the Hyde Mount and have been running it for many many years since the mid 90's This year I tried out the Yamada super mount and it is avery good mount as well.
Troy Newman
Team YS Performance
The Mount you show above may be fine in some applications by I find I fly enough that motor mount and its vibration dampening ability is important to me. For this reason I choose the Hyde Mount and have been running it for many many years since the mid 90's This year I tried out the Yamada super mount and it is avery good mount as well.
Troy Newman
Team YS Performance
#6
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From: Marsa, MALTA
So to mount it to the air plane firs I have to mount the nilon mount to the firewall and than mount the yamada super mounts to the nilon mount I am correct if no can u tell me how can I mount the Engine to the model 10x
#7
Senior Member
If you have a firewall mounting situation You should use a Hyde Mount. The Yamada (YS) Super mount is designed around the rails already being built into the model like this photo that I attached.
The Hydemount attached directly to the firewall. The standard YS mount would be the AR type. I recommend this version. It requires a nose ring mounted in the nose of the fuse. If your model doesn't have molded nose and the front cowling is removable then you need to pick a Type A mount. I don't really like the ARI style mounts with the nose ring incorporated. There are heavier and require a heavy strong firewall to keep the engine on the same thrust line. The type A mounts "don't" require a nose ring...but I prefer the engine mounts with them....I choose the AR types for my use.
The gator RC mount you are showing may be a solution is the model has a cowling in the front. See the Cowling is not strong enough to support the front of the engine.
I'm not familiar with you model 10x.....perhaps I can help you choose the right Hyde mount for the job.
The only 10X I know is my JR radio.
The Hydemount attached directly to the firewall. The standard YS mount would be the AR type. I recommend this version. It requires a nose ring mounted in the nose of the fuse. If your model doesn't have molded nose and the front cowling is removable then you need to pick a Type A mount. I don't really like the ARI style mounts with the nose ring incorporated. There are heavier and require a heavy strong firewall to keep the engine on the same thrust line. The type A mounts "don't" require a nose ring...but I prefer the engine mounts with them....I choose the AR types for my use.
The gator RC mount you are showing may be a solution is the model has a cowling in the front. See the Cowling is not strong enough to support the front of the engine.
I'm not familiar with you model 10x.....perhaps I can help you choose the right Hyde mount for the job.
The only 10X I know is my JR radio.
#10
Senior Member
The YS mount and the Yamada mount are the same item. This mount requires a nose ring be used. You will damage the mount, the engine and likely the model if you do not use a nose ring.
You can get it by ordering at Central Hobbies.
406-259-9004.
If they don't have any in stock then they can order it. This mount is a rare item and can be ordered if they don't have it stock. This mount will not be on their website. BUT THEY CAN get them. The quantities of these mounts are very limited and the price is pretty high. However it is a good mount. The intend purpose is in F3A pattern models. Not that it can't be adapted to other applications but this is the application and then the model must be built to accommodate it. Its not a normal engine mount.
See the drawings below of how it works.
Troy Newman
Team YS Performance
You can get it by ordering at Central Hobbies.
406-259-9004.
If they don't have any in stock then they can order it. This mount is a rare item and can be ordered if they don't have it stock. This mount will not be on their website. BUT THEY CAN get them. The quantities of these mounts are very limited and the price is pretty high. However it is a good mount. The intend purpose is in F3A pattern models. Not that it can't be adapted to other applications but this is the application and then the model must be built to accommodate it. Its not a normal engine mount.
See the drawings below of how it works.
Troy Newman
Team YS Performance
#12
Senior Member
Nope. This is it.
Most Profile models just get them hard mounted. You could adapt it but that is not the intended purpose.
It will fit the following engines and only the following engines.
140L
140 Sport
120FZ
140DZ
160DZ
The motor mount runs about $150
Troy Newman
Team YS Performance
Most Profile models just get them hard mounted. You could adapt it but that is not the intended purpose.
It will fit the following engines and only the following engines.
140L
140 Sport
120FZ
140DZ
160DZ
The motor mount runs about $150
Troy Newman
Team YS Performance
#14
Senior Member
It weighs about 2-2.5oz so it is quite lightweight.
The shock absorber does require some servicing as well. Its an RC car shock from Tamiya. I have been replacing the oil in the shock or at lease checking ti fluid elvel and filling it up about every 50 flights. You simply use the Tamiya 600WT silicone shock oil. I have been using Team Losi oil that is 60Wt and it is the same stuff as the Tamiya 600wt as far as I can tell. Its a pretty simple process.
What engine are you trying to put on this mount?
Troy
The shock absorber does require some servicing as well. Its an RC car shock from Tamiya. I have been replacing the oil in the shock or at lease checking ti fluid elvel and filling it up about every 50 flights. You simply use the Tamiya 600WT silicone shock oil. I have been using Team Losi oil that is 60Wt and it is the same stuff as the Tamiya 600wt as far as I can tell. Its a pretty simple process.
What engine are you trying to put on this mount?
Troy
#15

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From: coolidge,
AZ
140fz. the plane im going to put it on is very light and the spicke impulse is quite survere as the larger apc props have alot of mass so i thought i would soft mount the engine. but i dont know how this mount works if it gets bolted through all of the mounting holes ie soft mount holes and engine holes. i have been trying to find pics of one mounted in a plane
#16
Senior Member
The 140FZ doesn't have the mounting lug on the rear of the carb to use this mount. The 140 Sport does...but the 140FZ pre-dates the mount. If you engine has the big nobby lug on the rear of the carb like the photo below then its a 140L. The L stands for 140FZ-L which is a limited edition motor. This motor was sold for about 3-4 years and it was a limited edition as it was designed with this motor mount as a system. In the USA the engines were sold seperately from the mounts as guys in the USA use the Hyde mounts. But the Limited shakes a bit more than the 140FZ as it has the crankshaft ring on it. The super charger is a bit stronger and the 140L makes a couple 200-300 more rpm than the original 140FZ
This is a photo of the rear of the carb and how it mounts. It doesn't even touch the mounting lugs on the side of the engine. It attaches to this nub and then the nose ring sits around the front bearing housing and the engine rotates about 5-10deg back and forth around the prop shaft.
This picture is a DZ engine but the mounting LUG on the rear of the carb has 3 bolt holes then there is a spot up higher near the air intake of the carb that attaches the little shock absorber.
For vibration it makes ahuge difference if the prop is well balanced. Next is the high the top end rpm like up around 8800 or so the lighter the load on the engine and the better vibration levels will be. If you load the engine down to 8000rpm it can shake like a mother. But turn it at 8800 and it is quite a bit smoother running.
Especially the 140FZ its a pretty smooth motor compared to the other 140's
There may be other options for you. The Dave brown Vibradamp mount can help and would work easily on your model.
Vibra-Damp Sport Rail Mount....photo below as well
This is a photo of the rear of the carb and how it mounts. It doesn't even touch the mounting lugs on the side of the engine. It attaches to this nub and then the nose ring sits around the front bearing housing and the engine rotates about 5-10deg back and forth around the prop shaft.
This picture is a DZ engine but the mounting LUG on the rear of the carb has 3 bolt holes then there is a spot up higher near the air intake of the carb that attaches the little shock absorber.
For vibration it makes ahuge difference if the prop is well balanced. Next is the high the top end rpm like up around 8800 or so the lighter the load on the engine and the better vibration levels will be. If you load the engine down to 8000rpm it can shake like a mother. But turn it at 8800 and it is quite a bit smoother running.
Especially the 140FZ its a pretty smooth motor compared to the other 140's
There may be other options for you. The Dave brown Vibradamp mount can help and would work easily on your model.
Vibra-Damp Sport Rail Mount....photo below as well



