^pilotboy^

Gday troy, Marko here from down under trying to get a lil information about this little beauty i picked up for the wee price of 50 bucks AUD

I have it mounted in my PC9 atm and i have some issues trying to get it to run.

I never got the one way valve so im trying to source another one to suit so thats a needed item but im having issues with starting the damn thing

The engine fires, splutters and after warming up it knocks and dies....

Now i've read the other threads about this but this doesn't seem like its running lean/rich (got 5 turns open on the high speed needle)

I also use a Great Planes Fuel filler, Will this be a problem

A little help from the guru please ???

petec

My Feedback: (58)

Troy stopped doing the support a few months ago, but there are a few of us who have been trying to help.

First, get a YS check valve. It is imperative to getting it running right. The tank needs to pressurize for the fuel system to function properly.

^pilotboy^

id love to if someone had one here in peth WA (australia)

Can't find any ANYWHERE

Anything else ?

petec

My Feedback: (58)

Try contacting XMANS as he is the YS agent for Austrailia I beleive. Here is a link to is info here on RCU

http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/...1&memid=120010

^pilotboy^

ok i have the ys check valve, the fuel dots and what not and the thing wont even fire now

Is there something im doing wrong???

petec

My Feedback: (58)

Cool. If I go over anything you already know please disregard as it is not meant to do anything but make sure all bases are covered.

Make sure the check valve is in properly so the pressure goes from the engine and to the tank. This goes in the line that comes from the left nipple (looking at the engine from the top with prop stud facing away from you). Set the regulator to flush with the housing, the high speed needle out 2 1/2 turns and the low speed needle to 1 turn out from fully closed. The engine is now set to the factory base line.

Now open the throttle fully without the glow driver attached and pull the engine through 10 or so revolutions. This will pressurize the tank and you should see a few drops of fuel come out of the carb if your engine is inverted. Next close the throttle to idle and pull the engine through a couple of revolutions just to clear any fuel that might have flooded it. Now apply the glow driver and give starting it a go.

I also have the manual for that engine in PDF form if need or want it. Just PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.

^pilotboy^

I have the PDF File here also.

Check valve is right way, reg bolt is flush, hs needle 3 turns out (wanted to be safe) and ls is flush with the body

Anything else i've missed ??

petec

My Feedback: (58)

Nothing I can think of except a new OS type F plug.

Is the tank pressurizing? Are you getting fuel in the chamber? Have you pulled the regulator housing to make sure the passages are not clogged with old gelled fuel? Is the engine even trying to fire?

^pilotboy^

The engine is trying to fire, found out that the starter and glow lead were drawing too much power from the battery (almost dead flat)

Engine fired up once it was rectified, but.... anything more than 1/4 thottle and she missfires, knocks and dies in the ass :<

Have i got a dud :<

petec

My Feedback: (58)

SO we know you are getting fuel at low throttle. When you advance the throttle does it seem to be going lean or rich? My guess is lean from your description. Try richening the regulator in 1/8 turn increments and see if that makes any diference.

Still, did you take the regulator apart and make sure it is clean and the all the passages are not blocked by gelled old fuel? If you do or did make sure you take careful note of how the housing is put on. It can be put on backwards and that will cause you all sorts of greif.

^pilotboy^

I undid the regulator screw and saw a little bit of gelled fuel around the thread, nowhere else, and yes i refitted it properly.

i had to go out about 1/4 of a turn to get more fuel to go into the engine but she seems to lean out a bit top end (rectified the knocking issue, found to be a loose locknut)

opened the high speed needle up a bit to find that the HS Needle Housing is pissin out a hell of alot of fuel from the base

dmccormick001

I hope I don't get you all ticked off by my saying this, but it's really going to be hard for the guys on this forum to help you until you get a little bit more careful about what you're doing, and give us a lot more and a lot better information about the probelms you're having.

We can't help you get your engine running right when a lot of your problems seem to be pretty elementary stuff that you should be able to figure out at the field. First of all, your engine wouldn't start because your starter/glow ignitor battery was dead. If your engine won't start right off the bat, then borrow a glow ignitor from somebody else and make sure that isn't the problem before you post here that your engine won't start. Next, you report that the motor's making a knocking sound, but that turns out to be the prop nut loose. You need to check that kind of stuff first before asking for help, because we aren't going to suggest things like that because we pretty much assume that you've made sure of basic things like the prop being on tight.

We don't even know what model engine we're talking about yet. And now you've got fuel coming out of the HS needle valve housing? Have you checked to be sure the housing is screwed into the carb tight? Checked the o-rings around it for nicks or damage?

BTW, if you saw gelled fuel around the thread of the regulator screw, chances are really, really good that there either is, or was, gelled fuel elsewhere in the fuel system. I'd recommend you take everything apart carefully and clean it all out, because if you don't, you may get it running fine until a little clump of that gel comes loose and lodges in an opening in your carb, and then you'll be back trying to get the thing to start.

Don't get mad, now. I'm just trying to help you out.

David

petec

My Feedback: (58)

If you found gelled fuel it may also be in the high speed needle. Do what David suggests and pull the entire regulator assembly apart and clean it. Pull the needle and needle housing out of the carb body. This will give you a chance to not only clean everything out really well but also check the needle housing for damage along with the o-rings. There is no way the high speed needle is "pissin out a hell of lot of fuel" unless there is damage to one of the parts of the assembly.

Worst case you could contact XMANS and see what he want to fix it and get it running for you.

^pilotboy^

Dave, i'm no where near angry, infact im actually happy that you guys are trying to help me.

Firstly, i have never owned/used a YS engine im my 10 years of flying model aircraft. Two, The engine fired on numerous occasions with the battery/glow/starter combination so why would i have any doubt as to the reliability of my battery. Third, The lock nut was on as tight as i possibly could make it, using a sidchrome socket set for petes sake, so i know it was tight enough. Those were all things i made sure of before i posted on this forum, so i did all the preliminary checks before posting. Lastly, if you read the title you would have seen the engine in questing is a YS FZ53.

As for the HS needle and housing, i took the needle off and found NO i repeat NO traces of damage, O rings still in tact (i replaced the old o rings anyway) and i rebuilt the regulator housing (no gelled fuel in the housing, only on the thread). The HS needle is still leaking around the base, but everything is tight and sealed. So I'm baffled as to why the engine is STILL leaking fuel.

petec

My Feedback: (58)

Let me ask you this, where exactly is the fuel leaking from? Is it from between the needle and the needle housing or between the needle housing and the carb body? If it is from the needle and the needle housing and the previous owner(s) used a long piece of rod to extend the needle valve past the cowl you may need to get a replacement for the needle housing.

mjfrederick

I'm not too big to admit I've made this elementary mistake before... in fact I did it last weekend.I had just rebuilt a 140 FZ, put it in the plane, screwed on the needle valve, unscrewed it 2 1/2 turns, and went to try and run it... no dice. Turns out what I did was tightened the needle valve too much and when I unscrewed it the needle valve housing unscrewed from the carb body. As for the gelled fuel issue, one thing you could do is just run the engine sloppy rich... it'll work itself out eventually. Either way I think you've found the two main issues: gelled fuel, and fuel leak from the needle valve housing. Now, as long as the housing is loose, go ahead and take it out, clean it thoroughly with whatever fuel you use, inspect the 2 o-rings on the housing, replace if necessary, and re-install. Also, you may want to consider getting a glow igniter that runs on a separate battery from your starter, I learned that lesson very quickly. The glow plug has to be very hot on the YS 4-strokes, and when you draw down the battery using your starter at the same time, it's going to make starting difficult. One more thing to consider, if you haven't rebuilt the regulator yet, you may want to go ahead and do that. It might make your life easier. Good luck, and keep us posted.

^pilotboy^

Pete, its leaking from the HS needle body and the carb or thats as best as i can see. I replaced the fuel lines, replaced the o rings in the hs needle body and lubed them with some vaseline as i refitted the HS needle body back into the carb, so i wouldn't damage the o rings. Still shes leaking a fair whack of fuel from that area. Could i fix it using some thread locker ???

petec

My Feedback: (58)

I doubt thread locker would help much and might make life unpleasant when you try to disassemble it again. You could try a very thin mylar gasket between the carb body and the needle housing, but I'm not sure evenn that would help in this case. Think about what is happening here, enough fuel to be a noticable leak is making it past the threads, two o-rings, and the mating surface of the carb body and needle housing flange. Something else has to be amiss. I'm thinking a crack in the carb body maybe that expands enough to be an issue when you tighten the needle housing or one at teh base of the fuel nipple since that is in the sme general area. Other than that I am out of ideas and without actually seeing what is happening it is getting more difficult to troubleshoot.

^pilotboy^

do you want me to take it apart again and take some macro shots of it ?

petec

My Feedback: (58)

If you would like to that would be helpful, at least all of us could take a look. Also a picture of the whole thing assembled would be good too.

dmccormick001

You got me there, mate. I apologize for misssing that.

Ok, now you're giving us some info that might help. I think PETEC might be onto something with his suggestion that the carb body may be cracked. If it's leaking fuel with the housing screwed in tight and with o-rings in place around the needle valve, then that's about the only thing it could be. Unless there's a possibility that the entire needle valve assembly is not the correct one for the engine., or unless the threads in the carb body are stripped.

Does it "feel" OK when you screw the housing in all the way? Does it feel like it's snugging up well in the carb body? Man, I wish I could see and/or get my hands on this one. It's frustrating not being able to handle it!

A little trick I've used in the past might help you. Take a small amount of your fuel and put some of the two-cycle oil like you add to regular gasoline in it to color it. Different brands have a different color, look for some that make the fuel red or blue, something dark. Use this fuel while you're trying to troubleshoot the engine, the darker fuel may be easier to see exactly where it's coming from. It won't hurt anything since all you're doing is adding additional lubricant to your fuel.

Post those pics if you have them.

David

mjfrederick

Remove the housing again and replace the o-rings. This time, lube them with fuel, not vaseline. The petroleum in the jelly will eat at the o-rings. YS engines should never have petroleum-based lubricants in them.