YS drip fuel
#1
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From: Karmiel, , ISRAEL
Hi
I reassmble my YS-110FZ after replacing the bearings, and piston ring but the engine dosen't want to work...
i wasn't able to start it at all but then after many attempets i finally managed to start it but the engine was running at low r.p.m for few seconds ( no matter what was the throttle position ) and then it dies
i tried it severall times but it was the same oncwe the engine start it works for few seconds and then it die..
it looks to me that the engine is starving for fuel but after those few seconds of working there was perssure on the tank when i release the check valve
any ideas ?
Thanks
I reassmble my YS-110FZ after replacing the bearings, and piston ring but the engine dosen't want to work...
i wasn't able to start it at all but then after many attempets i finally managed to start it but the engine was running at low r.p.m for few seconds ( no matter what was the throttle position ) and then it dies
i tried it severall times but it was the same oncwe the engine start it works for few seconds and then it die..
it looks to me that the engine is starving for fuel but after those few seconds of working there was perssure on the tank when i release the check valve
any ideas ?
Thanks
#3
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From: Karmiel, , ISRAEL
1) Yes
2) I put the crankshaft dot at 6:00, and the camgear dot at 12
there is no reference dot on the crankcase so it's bit difficult to see if it's 100% aligned with the crankshaft dot
so i will remove the backplate, and reacheck it.
#4

My Feedback: (58)
I'm confused. Is your engine dripping fuel from the carb or do you mean fuel starvation? Drom what you are describing I think you mean the engine is not geting enough fuel.
Double check your cam timing and also make sure nothing is obstructing the passages from the fuel nipples to the regulator.
Double check your cam timing and also make sure nothing is obstructing the passages from the fuel nipples to the regulator.
#5
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From: Karmiel, , ISRAEL
it's very strange becuase it looks like it's driping fuel from the regulator screw.. it's like the fuel flow is blocked and when there is no other place to go it's starting to drip from there , but then after several attempts it started to drip fuel from the carburator..
i disconnected the fuel line that connects the left nipple to the HS needle body and i spin the engine by using starter, and i saw that the fuel is flowing ( although it's wasn't constant but more like in pulses )
i disconnected the fuel line that connects the left nipple to the HS needle body and i spin the engine by using starter, and i saw that the fuel is flowing ( although it's wasn't constant but more like in pulses )
#6
selnekav,
The drive washer mark should point up at th 12 position not 6, mine does not have the mark on the drive washer, so I put it a TDC (Top Dead Center), the cam is good as you installed it at 12, and install the dot in the cam gear in a position close to 12 as it will not be exactly 12 but very close to it's left.
Regards
The drive washer mark should point up at th 12 position not 6, mine does not have the mark on the drive washer, so I put it a TDC (Top Dead Center), the cam is good as you installed it at 12, and install the dot in the cam gear in a position close to 12 as it will not be exactly 12 but very close to it's left.
Regards
#10
Yes, that's correct, retarded will give better performance than advanced. Anyway, around 12, and try what works best if it does not actually fall exactly at 12. There is not such thing as one tooth retarded, is the fact that most YS never get at the perfect 12, so if it can not be at perfect 12, then you have to choose fwd or aft, I choose aft.
#11
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From: Karmiel, , ISRAEL
Thank you it will be easier to check it like that rather then remove the backplate
by the way is it possible that i fasten the disk valve screw to much ? is that can cause some issue ?
by the way is it possible that i fasten the disk valve screw to much ? is that can cause some issue ?
#12
Yes, it should not be that tight, not loose either, as soon as it stops turning with my wrench(the bolt) I turn it 1/8 of a turn more, that's it. You should be able to turn the disk by hand easily, not freely, but it should need the same force to turn from start to stop, as long as you don't feel there's like an extra torque to start moving it and then it reduces the amount of force, if that happens then is too tight.
#13

My Feedback: (2)
ORIGINAL: apereira
Yes, that's correct, retarded will give better performance than advanced. Anyway, around 12, and try what works best if it does not actually fall exactly at 12. There is not such thing as one tooth retarded, is the fact that most YS never get at the perfect 12, so if it can not be at perfect 12, then you have to choose fwd or aft, I choose aft.
Yes, that's correct, retarded will give better performance than advanced. Anyway, around 12, and try what works best if it does not actually fall exactly at 12. There is not such thing as one tooth retarded, is the fact that most YS never get at the perfect 12, so if it can not be at perfect 12, then you have to choose fwd or aft, I choose aft.
Jimmy Skids
#16
Jimmy,
I think you got the wrong idea from my comment, I have owned almost all the YS four strokes versions, and in the manual says to have the cam gear at 12 o'clock, and in several models is mechanically impossible, that's the reason for the suggestions, so if that is the condition, then is when you install it as close to 12, but you will have to choose forward or aft of the 12 position.
Review the post again and you will see I say to do that if it does not fall exactly at 12.
Regards
I think you got the wrong idea from my comment, I have owned almost all the YS four strokes versions, and in the manual says to have the cam gear at 12 o'clock, and in several models is mechanically impossible, that's the reason for the suggestions, so if that is the condition, then is when you install it as close to 12, but you will have to choose forward or aft of the 12 position.
Review the post again and you will see I say to do that if it does not fall exactly at 12.
Regards
#17

My Feedback: (2)
Understood, basically I have looked at all my motors and when I look at the cam gear with the piston at TDC the cam gear is just past 12 o'clock on the motors from the factory. As such I just make sure to place it in the same position when I reassemble the motor. Either way as Union stated, it is very important to check the valve adjustment when ever you have the crank or cam gear out for servicing upon reassembly.
Skids
Skids
#18
If you know that all other items are correct.
Step back and look at the fuel line setup.
It is very easy to get your lines routed wrong and to install the check valve in the wrong spot or even backwards.
Start at the beginning do a methodical check.
Good Luck.
Step back and look at the fuel line setup.
It is very easy to get your lines routed wrong and to install the check valve in the wrong spot or even backwards.
Start at the beginning do a methodical check.
Good Luck.
#19
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My Feedback: (1)
Hi, just want to add my 2 cents worth because I had a similar thing with mine when I first went to put it back together after replacing the bearings.
When you remove the backplate , you will see that in the rotating disc there is a rectangulr hole which must line up with the end of the crank that sticks out slightly through the conrod, which is also the same shape as the hole in the rotating disc.
It can be assembled incorrectly and still give you some pressure in your tank, but it will not work as intended.
Just rotate the disc to line up with the end of the crank. Reinstall your backplate and away you go.
To check it is correct remove the carby plate as well and you can see if the disc is moving at exactly the same time as you turn the prop shaft.
Hope this helps.
When you remove the backplate , you will see that in the rotating disc there is a rectangulr hole which must line up with the end of the crank that sticks out slightly through the conrod, which is also the same shape as the hole in the rotating disc.
It can be assembled incorrectly and still give you some pressure in your tank, but it will not work as intended.
Just rotate the disc to line up with the end of the crank. Reinstall your backplate and away you go.
To check it is correct remove the carby plate as well and you can see if the disc is moving at exactly the same time as you turn the prop shaft.
Hope this helps.
#20
If memory serves me correctly, when the dot on the crank is at 12:00, the piston is not quite at TDC. I seem to remember Richard telling me to line up the dots, and not use TDC. A call to him would solve it for sure.
775-267-9252
Blessings, Terry
775-267-9252
Blessings, Terry



