Eclipse conversion to electric
#1
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Eclipse conversion to electric
I dinged my #1 Eclipse at the Temple contest last month. While I was making the fuselage repairs, I converted it to electric. I am using the Hacker C50 14XL 6.7:1 motor, the Hacker Acro 90 speed controller and the Thunder Power TP600 10s3p batteries. The project can in a tad bit over the weight limit at 11#-6oz. I can get it under the weight limit by eliminating my repaired wheel pants, installing a BEC, lightened TruTurn spinner and aluminum nut. It's still raining here in Houston, so I'll try to test fly the plane next weekend. Here are some before pictures.
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RE: Eclipse conversion to electric
Looks like a nice conversion. You may still get it at weight with those items you mention. Also, take a close look at any place you can grind on the model. Like cutting the hatch flanges narrower, canopy flanges, etc. Using aluminum bolts at all the places you can will save a few grams. I would maybe stay away from a BEC at this time. Any problem with the motor batteries and you'll lose RC power, not a good thing. You can use a smaller RC battery, since with no vibration there is much less load on the servos.
If you haven't heard, be easy for the first 5 cycles on the batteries. Stay away from a lot of full power runs, and charge at 1/2C. TP says it seems to help the cells by doing this little break-in.
Good luck with the project and if I can help at all let me know. And please let us know how it goes!
If you haven't heard, be easy for the first 5 cycles on the batteries. Stay away from a lot of full power runs, and charge at 1/2C. TP says it seems to help the cells by doing this little break-in.
Good luck with the project and if I can help at all let me know. And please let us know how it goes!
#8
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RE: Eclipse conversion to electric
Tony,
Thanks for the support. Here is a picture of my chin cowl with the air duct baffle. I went back and checked out my fuse weights. This fuse was one of the heavy ones at 33 oz (fuse, canopy chin cowl). My #2 Eclipse was a lot lighter at 29.5 oz. My Smaragd-z was only 27 oz. So just staring with a light fuse and eliminating the 2+ oz repairs, I can easily get my next plane under the weight limit.
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks for the support. Here is a picture of my chin cowl with the air duct baffle. I went back and checked out my fuse weights. This fuse was one of the heavy ones at 33 oz (fuse, canopy chin cowl). My #2 Eclipse was a lot lighter at 29.5 oz. My Smaragd-z was only 27 oz. So just staring with a light fuse and eliminating the 2+ oz repairs, I can easily get my next plane under the weight limit.
Thanks,
Steve
#9
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RE: Eclipse conversion to electric
I was able to get in four flights today in between thunderstormes. My Hacker C50 14XL motor is still backordered from Espirit Models. They had shipped me the wrong size motor, a C50 13XL. In order to get in some test flights, Espirit Models also loaned me a APC E20-15 prop. I was skeptical about this arrangement. Much to my suprise, the engine and prop pulled like a tractor. The plane flies a lot slower and does not quite have the vertical as did my OS140. I can get in two Masters pattern flights and only use up some 4500ma out of the 6000ma batteries. So far the maximum motor temperature was 120F. The batteries are only slightly warm to the touch. It was around 85F today. This plane tracks every bit as good as it did when it had a glow engine.
Now if Espirit Models can send me the proper C50 14XL engine, I can get in some serious Masters practice. I now have a plan to get the plane down to 11# even. I'll have to leave off the wheel pants, use a smaller flight pack battery and go with the lightened TruTurn spinner and aluminum jam nut. I can carve out another half ounce by eliminating some excess bracing.
I am getting excited about pattern again.
Steve
Now if Espirit Models can send me the proper C50 14XL engine, I can get in some serious Masters practice. I now have a plan to get the plane down to 11# even. I'll have to leave off the wheel pants, use a smaller flight pack battery and go with the lightened TruTurn spinner and aluminum jam nut. I can carve out another half ounce by eliminating some excess bracing.
I am getting excited about pattern again.
Steve
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RE: Eclipse conversion to electric
Gregg,
Too much. That is why I am selling my Smaragd-z plane. Can't afford two expensive play toys.
Hacker C50 XL motor - $415
Hacker Acro 90 speed controller - $400
TP 6000 10s3p batteries - $650
Two Astro 109 chargers - $260
Pyramid PS-26KX power supply - $100
APC E22-12 prop - $20
Misc. electrical connectors & wire - $20
The rest of the conversion costs are covered in my fuse repairs. Wow, does this engine have a totally linear and smooth power response. Gobs of torque at low RPM. Right now the plane flies so slow (but with plenty of power) that I can actually think ahead for my next maneuver. I real plus is how quiet the plane is.
Regards,
Steve
Too much. That is why I am selling my Smaragd-z plane. Can't afford two expensive play toys.
Hacker C50 XL motor - $415
Hacker Acro 90 speed controller - $400
TP 6000 10s3p batteries - $650
Two Astro 109 chargers - $260
Pyramid PS-26KX power supply - $100
APC E22-12 prop - $20
Misc. electrical connectors & wire - $20
The rest of the conversion costs are covered in my fuse repairs. Wow, does this engine have a totally linear and smooth power response. Gobs of torque at low RPM. Right now the plane flies so slow (but with plenty of power) that I can actually think ahead for my next maneuver. I real plus is how quiet the plane is.
Regards,
Steve
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RE: Eclipse conversion to electric
Has anyone done a detailed price comparison with this setup vs. a new glow setup? Right off the top of my head, it isn't looking that much different than a new YS motor, header, CF pipe, and Hyde mount.
The big variable will be how many "cases of glow fuel" you can get out of the batteries. . . .
When y'all figure that out, please let me know; hopefully before I start my next plane this fall!!
The big variable will be how many "cases of glow fuel" you can get out of the batteries. . . .
When y'all figure that out, please let me know; hopefully before I start my next plane this fall!!
#15
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RE: Eclipse conversion to electric
I have been able to get another five flights on the electric Eclipse. This time I had the Hacker C50 14XL 6.7:1 motor and the APC E22-12 prop. I am impressed on how well it flies even in a moderate wind (some 15 mph). It has plenty of vertical for the Masters pattern.
I did experience a battery failure. The air temperature was 93F. The maximum motor temperature I measured was 132F after landing. The batteries never got hot. The first picture shows that cells second from the end failed. I discussed the situation with Thunder power. They are replacing the TP6000 5s3p packs under warranty. They have had some failures in these packs. Mostly with the packs installed in pattern planes. Apparently the cells are not getting enough cooling. Picture two shows the revised support plates with plenty of cooling holes. I have also ducted all of my air across the motor and directly to the batteries. I hope to get some more test flights next weekend. I still hope to bring the plane to the Nats. Just need some more practice.
The original conversion weighed in at 11#-6oz. That means I gained exactly one pound, one ounce in the conversion. I now have the plane below 11# by 1 to 2 oz. Here is what I had to do:
First I removed the wheel pants and Dave Brown 3" light tires. I also carved all excess material from the Bolly CF landing gear. I will be using the central hobbies aluminum axels and MK 55mm tires. This saved some 5oz.
Second I removed the 1600ma NiMH receiver battery and installed a 770ma NiMH battery. This saved 2.1 oz.
Third I removed all excess material from the fuselage. You don't need wide flanges on an electric motor. There is almost no vibration in the air frame.
There is some two more ounces of weight savings I could do such as using the new JR770 pcm-s credit card mini receiver and using the mid size aileron servos. This is more expensive and is not necessary.
All in all, a glow conversion to electric can come in under 11#. It is best to start with a plane weighing in at no more than 10#-4oz.
I did experience a battery failure. The air temperature was 93F. The maximum motor temperature I measured was 132F after landing. The batteries never got hot. The first picture shows that cells second from the end failed. I discussed the situation with Thunder power. They are replacing the TP6000 5s3p packs under warranty. They have had some failures in these packs. Mostly with the packs installed in pattern planes. Apparently the cells are not getting enough cooling. Picture two shows the revised support plates with plenty of cooling holes. I have also ducted all of my air across the motor and directly to the batteries. I hope to get some more test flights next weekend. I still hope to bring the plane to the Nats. Just need some more practice.
The original conversion weighed in at 11#-6oz. That means I gained exactly one pound, one ounce in the conversion. I now have the plane below 11# by 1 to 2 oz. Here is what I had to do:
First I removed the wheel pants and Dave Brown 3" light tires. I also carved all excess material from the Bolly CF landing gear. I will be using the central hobbies aluminum axels and MK 55mm tires. This saved some 5oz.
Second I removed the 1600ma NiMH receiver battery and installed a 770ma NiMH battery. This saved 2.1 oz.
Third I removed all excess material from the fuselage. You don't need wide flanges on an electric motor. There is almost no vibration in the air frame.
There is some two more ounces of weight savings I could do such as using the new JR770 pcm-s credit card mini receiver and using the mid size aileron servos. This is more expensive and is not necessary.
All in all, a glow conversion to electric can come in under 11#. It is best to start with a plane weighing in at no more than 10#-4oz.
#16
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RE: Eclipse conversion to electric
I now have another eight flights on the Eclipse after the above modifications. The plane now weighs in at 10# 14oz. The afternoon ambient temperature was 94F. Under these conditions, the max. motor temperature was 132F (gear box) and batteries at 116F. Below are some pictures of the plane and modified battery supports. I have been asked questions about the bottom side of my wings. I use Monokote neon yellow. Help me see the other side of the wing. I did not experience any problems using the MK 55mm wheels on a grass runway.