Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Well looks like I might have the R90 ready to go earlier than I anticipated. Instead of waiting for two to three weeks for Tower to get their shipment, I called Chief and was able to get almost the same price as my Tower discount.So I should have the engine next week instead of three weeks! While I'm adding this post I would like to add to the comment about the color scheme being bland. I know it is all a matter of taste but I think the scheme is very well done with good contrasting colors. The picture on Tower’s site does no justice at all. It really is a nice scheme in person. Also, the covering on mine is so good it hardly had any wrinkles. In fact it only took me about five minutes to remove the small amount of wrinkles from the entire airframe in less than five minutes.

SAMCPAKISTAN

Dear G Barber, do you think that eletric convertion is better than use of Gasoline powered engines ?

we are also using REVOLVER, which was initially build up with 120 nitro engine & now a days, we replace nitro 120 with 30CC gasoline and its mind blowing now.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

SAMPakistan - you're running a DLE 30 on the Rev70? You're getting into Airraptor territory there... What prop are you using? I'd think anything over 17" would be hitting the ground on a REv 70 (unless you space out the landing gear), but under that would be under-propped. I'm using an APC 18x10 on my DLE 30, but that's on a 73" Sukhoi with plenty of ground clearance (and that engine has awesome power for that plane).

btw - Just ordered an EI and carb to convert my Precision Eagle 4.2 to a gasser. Maybe I'll use that engine for the Rev 90.

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

I have a question for the "solder gurus". In the R90 manual it states that you should use silver solder when soldering the control rods. I have a few spools of this -> http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...-MNT1064004#t3 Does anyone see a problem with using the solder in the link for the rods? The last thing Iwant is to have a control rod fail.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

If this plane is supplied the usually shiny metal pushrod connectors by Great Planes I highly recommend you don't use them. I have had them fail on a Patty Wagstaff and a Giant Stick and no longer use them on anything but larger glow powered planes. They crack off on each side where the rod attaches. Doesn't matter if they are the solder type or the threaded type they break at the same spot. Better to go with HD 4-40 ball links or something else. Anything but what is supplied, they do not stand up to the vibrations from a gas engine.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Spridal that is ordinary solder for doing electronics. You want a silver solder or any type of metal works solder for strength.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFS75&P=ML
Here is what I make up 4-40 pushrods with so they are threaded on both ends. Then you can use the connector of your choice.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK089&P=SM
Either that or go all the way and use 3/16" CF rod and end connectors and use CF pushrods. Very easy to make and all you need is JB Weld to glue the ends on.

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the heads up. Ithink Iwill go with the CF and ball link route. I have most everything Ineed except JB weld.

wjcalhoun

Ball links for this size plane. Period.
Make custom rods if you must. Buy a die. Thread the rod. It is not that hard.
Soldered clevises are for toy-sized planes.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Oh man. Are they supplying 4-40 rod with solder on clevises with this kit? That's simply unbelievable on a plane of this size and power! I could go on about why I believe using them would be a mistake, but a picture is worth a thousand words? Check out how well this same exact rod installed on a GP Giant Sportster works out. Slow motion starts at 3:12 .... Keep in mind this plane is just flying, not doing anything special. If you still want to solder up a set of these rods after seeing this, go for it....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=f-nAsg14LvA

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I have never had a solder joint fail, but that depends on the person doing the joint. The 4-40 wire pushrods soldered or not I wouldn't use them on anything over 50cc unless you like buying new planes. As for the clevis they are trash plain and simple and should not be used on any gas planes of any size.

wjcalhoun

Al

Maybe some CF tube reinforcment would have reduced the harmonics, but your video is a great demonstration of why proper linkages are important.
Clevises on a 20# + plane

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Just watched you video. You can see why the clevises fail with the amount of flex and vibration with the 4-40 rods. The rods would be much better if they were inserted inside a length of CF rod to stiffen them. Even then I would not trust the clevises. I noticed the same flex on the pushrods supplied with the Giant Stick years ago and is why I switched to CF pushrods when I buy a Great Planes kit. They are the only ones I find that use such long pushrods. Others I use H9 Pro Links.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

The other thing not mentioned here is the use of aluminum servo arms and not to use those plastic horns on 50cc and up planes. I draw the line at 30cc myself. Anything over that get aluminum arms and either G10 horns, metal horns or the type that uses a threaded rod or bolt that is inserted through the control surface.

Sbach342Guy

HobbyKing now has aluminum servo arms for real cheap. They look just like the SWB arms:

[link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_power_search.asp?idCategory=387&search=heavy%20duty%20alloy&utm_campaign=171012ENUS&utm_content=92122803&utm_medium=email&utm_source=EDM]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_power_search.asp?idCategory=387&search=heavy%20duty%20alloy&utm_campaign=171012ENUS&utm_content=92122803&utm_medium=email&utm_source=EDM[/link]

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

So talking about clevises? I kinda like the clevis plan for a lot of stuff. They support the arm on both sides without trying to twist it. But you do need HD clevises - like these?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWH35

You can even scrap that pin and clip, substituting a screw w/lock nut. Otherwise it's the ball link plan for me....

The other thing to consider when using metal clevises is they don't fit the threads well. Nylon will grip the threads like.... well you know what I mean. Just don't use the metal ones.
-Al

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I am actually trying a set of those on my latest Giant Stick I just finished today. I am a little nervous about the retaining clip so I plugged the slot that they slide in with silicone after I had everything all set up so it will not be able to slide back and unlock the pin. Even with that I am going to watch them very close and may do the cap screw and lock nut thing. I am thinking the pin/clip contact point will wear allowing the pin to come free.

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

I'm also not to fond about the plastic control arms. I have a nice metal set from a 50cc Aeroworks Ultimate that I plan to use.
http://www.aero-works.net/store/searchresult.aspx?CategoryID=160

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

They work good on the Great Planes models. I used a set of those on a 87" P47.

wjcalhoun

Spridal
I agree
The AW control horns are superb. Strong, light, and very well anchored. And because they support the ball link on both sides of the ball, there is no torsional force on the horn - to the point that ahicks made earlier.

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Woohoo! I just found a complete set of titanium rods and ball links in my "salvage bin" damn I love when things work out.

coxco

My Feedback: (7)

I get all my control linkages from Central Hobbies. All CF stuff with Titanium rod ends that are glued with JBWeld. NEVERBREAK stuff.

http://www.centralhobbies.com/contro...e/pushrod.html

edwal07

I just received my Revolver and must say I am impressed with the quality and looks.  The wings have absolutely no wrinkles and only one on the canopy deck.  Personally I am using control linkage from the Aeroworks Ultimate as they are a perfect fit on the ailerons, haven't gotten to the elevators yet but looks the same.  Note: I am using the Aeroworks control horns also with SWB arms.  I love those adjustable linkage rods and they are beefy from Aeroworks.  But I think Great Planes has a winner here.  I am not a 3D guy and like to fly a plane the way a plane is supposed to fly.  This is a racy looking aerobatic and pattern plane.  Will post more once I get farther along in the build. But I am impressed!  I also have the 50cc Reactor, Super Stearman, P-6E Hawk, and the Super Chipmunk.  They are impressive also!  So this is not my first ARF and I know what I am talking about!
Ed

wyo69cowboy

My Feedback: (2)

Well, maybe I'm just lucky, but I've used the stock metal clevises/plastic control horns on the ailerons of my 50cc Reactor for 150 flights now, doing medium intensity 3D. I did build new tail pushrods using this sweet kit from Abell: [link=http://www.abellhobby.com/Pro-Series-Big-Bird-Pushrod-Kit-Titanium-p/cccfprkbdpro.htm]Abell carbon pushrod kit[/link]. I use Dubro 4-40 HD ball links at the servo arm, but use threaded 4-40 metal clevises on the other end, to eliminate the possible flexing of a single sided ball link at the control horn. I think I may switch out those metal clevises for the HD plastic/brass ones though; those do look better and there is definitely some play at the threads on the metal clevises.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

edwal07 - good to hear. Are you going with the DLE 55?

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Anyone planning on painting the landing gear? I'm not sure the bare metal look is a good mix for this plane.