Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Those are OK but not as good as the type of ends that go on the outside of the CF rod. With that style that goes on the inside the CF rod can split with a side force, whereas the type that goes over the rod will not.
These are not the ones I buy, but here is a link of what I mean.
http://www.abellhobby.com/category-s/342.htm

edwal07

Actually I will install a DLA 56. This is one of the first DLA56's that came to the States. I did a review on the Nitro Planes 50cc Ultimate with this engine. It is truly a good engine, as believe it or not the piston has DLE stamped on the bottom! It starts excellent and has lots of power. I was pleased with the testing and used it in the Ultimate until the landing gear took out the whole forward fuse. Very little glue or support on the Nitro Planes model. I even beefed up what I could reach. Or better yet read my review.
I will post more on the up build as I progress but so far I am pleased. I am using the Aeroworks linkage "just because" I have it! I have used the solder method many times, as long as you use the "Silver Solder" and not electronic solder you will be fine. You also must make sure you have a good joint. I have yet to have a failure!
I really think this is a great bird and looks fantastic. I cannot wait to see it in the air behind the DLA56! Oh and what about that HUGE spinner, looks like a P51 spinner.
Ed

Luchnia

My Feedback: (21)

Most everything else will break before a good solder joint. The only time I have ever had a solder joint break was when I halfway soldered it. A good solder joint is stronger than the hornes are in the balsa. I know guys that are master builders and have been soldering clevises for around 30 years without one solder joint failure.

One guy I know uses welding rod and solders the clevises to the welding rod....man that is SUPER strong! Looks like something that should be on an army tank.

I can hardly wait to see some of these 50cc Revolvers and especially the photos.

Slow and Steady

I've made control rods from 4 40 "all thread" encased in carbon fiber tube. All thread is carried at most LHSs. I apply epoxy to the portion of the thread to be encased in the tube, with 3/4 inch of thread exposed at each end. Very easy to make and no soldering. Or go first class and buy the titanium rods, available from Chief, which have opposite threads on both ends and are nurled in the center for length adjustment. The plane only requires two pair, which are relatively cheap. A plane this size deserves bullet proof rods and ball links.

Slow and Steady

Thanks for the photos WC. This plane looks fantastic. Should be alot of fun and a keeper.

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

the central hobbies Ti ends offer more gluing area. now if worried about spliting do as i have done and slide some Aluminum tubing over the CF for the strongest set up. best of both types.....

jet22b

Hey Guys,
My R90 will be here next week, so the talk about the push rods are good info for me!! This will be my first big gas and I want the maiden flight to go smooth. One quick question, will everyone stay with the pull-pull setup on the rudder or change to a servo setup?? For me I love the pull-pull system!!!
Thanks again for any info!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

That would do the trick. [8D]

wjcalhoun

Sonny:
I plan to use the pull-pull system. I have a pull-pull system in my R70, rather than the long flexible rod system specified in the R70 manual. The advantage of the pull-pull is that the weight of the servo is closer to CG. If one uses a larger engine, or finds the airframe very nose heavy, then an aft servo, with a short, stiff rudder control rod might be an alternative.

Slow and Steady

I agree WJ, pull pull is just one way of attaining proper cg. As far as optimim linkage, the rear servo with a short connecting rod would be preferrable for removing slop inherent in pull pull, not to mention cable geometry and tensioning issues.

Luchnia

My Feedback: (21)

I agree. Yet I still like pull pull on everything I can get it on. I am not sure exactly why. I suppose it is just easier to work with.

edwal07

  My Revolver is steadly making progress.  As far as not using the pull-pull you have very little room at the rear with the twin elevator servos.  I have 33 and 35% planes and the pull pull is the way to go.  I do not have slop on the pull-pull in any of them. I truly think everyone is overthinking the control rod issues some seem to consider will be a problem.  This is not a 3D bird nor is there any wild throws associated in the setup.  Do you actually think the control rods will bend with a 90inoz servo which is recommended?  Especially as short as the rods are?  I think not!  You can always over engineer anything!  The control surfaces are not overly large, the throws are small compared to 3D  and in 3D most manuvers are at a slow speed.
  If you set this bird up according to the instructions, and fly it as it is meant to fly I see no problem with the way it comes, and the hardware, would perform great! But if you intend on thrashing it about the sky and putting a 100cc engine on it by all means get you some 1/4" threaded rod and hook it up.
  The ONLY reason I am using the Aeroworks linkage is that I had it.  If I did not have it, the plane would be built exactly like the manual says. Except for one thing,  I would use heavy duty servo arms.
  Will post pics later.
Ed

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Ed, regarding those control rods, you could make the same arguments you make regarding the Giant Sportster as well? It's smaller, lighter, and generally uses less power. I think if you start reading through that string (which is very long, the Sportster's been around a long time) you won't go too far to start seeing failures associated with this exact type rod/clevis. Doesn't matter what caused them if they bring a plane down does it? Go any way you like, but I would never have used them if there were a note in the instructions regarding "high performance" options or something alluding to the fact the plans suggest something to be used only in "light duty" service. Here, with the heavier plane and much more power...... well, enough said. I wouldn't use them. The fact it's not INTENDED for 3D has nothing to do with it unless you're building with the intent to just do laps with it. Spins, snaps, etc. will strain whatever is there. My opinion, FWIW, -Al

Slow and Steady

I have used ball links for years. Once properly installed they are no longer an issue. 4 40 all thread with carbon fiber tube makes the install very easy. However, I don't think ball links are a good choice for a single horn installation.

wjcalhoun

Ed:
Many of us push the airframe well beyond what the book says. The R70 is a very tame, might i say uninteresting airplane, at the book rate throws, and book engine.
If an aft servo seems proper for the R90, I would not be dissuaded by the lack of space around the elevator servos. If necessary, I will build in a little structure to hold the servo and connect with short stiff rods (4-40 / cf as S&S uses, or H9, or whatever).
To each his own, but i would not assume that we will all be flying with 5/8" aileron and elevator throws. As deflection angle and airspeed rises, the stresses on linkages rise disproportionately quickly, demanding in my view servos of at least 150 in-oz. I'm installing ~300 in-oz servos for some safety margin.

My build will be strong; no way i want to lose an airframe over a weak control surface linkage or inadequate servo.

Bill

edwal07

Okay guys! I do concede it does need improvement! And it is a 50cc bird, yes the controls needs some beef! I am doing the same! Ok now lets get to some more importand things:

NOTE:On page 15 where the engine is installed. It is MISLEADING where the size drill to use for the standoffs is concerned. It states to "use a 13/16ths (20mm) drill bit for the relief holes" it should be 3/16ths which is the right size for 5mm bolts. Guys with experience would catch it but the new builders may ponder. Just don't want someone to err!

The engine mount is only braced on the sides with triangular stock, none on top or bottom. I have built and repaired many engine mounts and always "pin" the mounts with 1/8th hardwood or best of all 1/8" bamboo dowels. The bamboo will take CA as it is porous and to me makes a better pin. On this application I put 4 pins on each area, top, bottom and sides. I have added photos of this.

The stock standoffs that come with the DLE and DLA are almostthe correct length lacking 1/8th" which can be corrected with a washer.

I love the wheel pants as they are bolt on, no need to add blocks or blind nuts.Nice!

I also added an extra screw between the two provided on the tail gear mount.

Here are a few photos. Please disregard the clutter as I just finished repairing a 35% Pilot SBach engine mount and thrust frames.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

edwal07 - nice pics. btw - it's amazing, but your kitchen looks exactly like mine!

edwal07

Yeah, I have not stopped to clean and organize, just went from one to the other. Smazing how clutter will pile up in a heartbeat!

Slow and Steady

Just a suggestion, I normally rotate the carb 180 degrees so that the internal filter is on top and easy to access and clean out. Nice linkage on the tail!

edwal07

That is a good suggestion! I use an inline filter before the carb, and have a filter on my gas can, that way I have double protection prior to the carb and also the inline prevents those "things" during fuel tank assembly from ever reaching the carb screen!
Anyone else building the revolver? Post some photos! We may end up with a real winner! I am really looking forward to maiden day!

edwal07

Just for info, hereare a fewpictures of the engine mount I just repaired on the Sbach 35%.
Tony Tan the owner of Pilot Planes will send you all the needed pieces to repair your plane. All you have to do is tell him what you need and pay the postage. I was amazed how everything fit. It turned out better than new as I added a few touches to make it alittle stonger.
This one was about 30feet up in a hover, engine quit and back flipped nose first into the ground. Only the engine box and cowl were crushed. The rest of the plane is okay with a few cracks here and there that were easy to repair.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Nice engine box rebuild.

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Ed,
Thanks for your pics. I'm a few steps behind you in my build. As you stated, the stock rods and control arms dont appear to be up to the task. I switched my controls to the Aeroworks arms and titanium rods. I also went with metal servo arms. Other than those few things I'm very pleased with the kit so far. Oh yeah, I also painted the landing gear white. The bare metal look just didn't fit the scheme of the plane.

edwal07

Thanks for the update. I too think the landing gear would look better painted. I have some white appliance epoxy that will do the trick. Can you post a photo of the gear. I think that may make it stand out even more.

wjcalhoun

Ed
Beautiful job on the engine box; i like the bamboo pins as well.
I'm eager to get going on mine but a 10 day business trip stands in the way.