NEW Hanger-9 30cc Beaver
03-10-2014, 01:30 PM
#83
well, we hope to get test fights on it next Sunday!!
,,,,and I'm working my ass off on it!!.. Installed the steps, painted the radial so it all looks pretty, installed the tank and ready to glue in the engine box..I think I should make a "Step kit" for this plane!!! hahaha...
Skip turned me onto the wire!!!! I LOVE IT!!! VERY strong and easy to use!!
Skip turned me onto the wire!!!! I LOVE IT!!! VERY strong and easy to use!!
03-11-2014, 05:52 PM
#84
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Location: SorrentoBritish Columbia, CANADA
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I was quite surprized when I read in the Fly RC mag that you can't switch the new Hanger 9 Beaver back and forth between wheels and floats like you can with the Cub's . You have to choose one or the other . That's kind of a shame.. I whish I could afford two of them and had the space .
03-12-2014, 03:31 AM
#85
I was quite surprized when I read in the Fly RC mag that you can't switch the new Hanger 9 Beaver back and forth between wheels and floats like you can with the Cub's . You have to choose one or the other . That's kind of a shame.. I whish I could afford two of them and had the space .
03-12-2014, 05:11 AM
#86
I suppose it could be done but it's not nearly as easy as the Cub.
The strut covers are supposed to get glued into place. I put them in place with Blanderm to install the wheels and break in the engine. Everyone that looked closely at the plane while it was on wheels had something to say about the tape until I told them why it was there. Other than that issue, I'm sure that some clever modeler could come up with something.
The strut covers are supposed to get glued into place. I put them in place with Blanderm to install the wheels and break in the engine. Everyone that looked closely at the plane while it was on wheels had something to say about the tape until I told them why it was there. Other than that issue, I'm sure that some clever modeler could come up with something.
03-13-2014, 05:53 PM
#87
Join Date: Feb 2004
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Can someone help me remember which side of the tank the fuel supply line is on? I think it's the right side (looking out from the pilot's point of view.) I kind of made it a wee bit difficult to remove my tank to figure it out again. A little too much silicone around the hole in the firewall and now it doesn't want to back out so easily. Rather than bust something trying to yank it out I'm hoping that Hangar 9 spec'd all the tanks to be plumbed a certain way. Otherwise I guess I'll just have to fill it up and see which tube pulls fuel and which one doesn't...
03-14-2014, 08:49 AM
#88
Can someone help me remember which side of the tank the fuel supply line is on? I think it's the right side (looking out from the pilot's point of view.) I kind of made it a wee bit difficult to remove my tank to figure it out again. A little too much silicone around the hole in the firewall and now it doesn't want to back out so easily. Rather than bust something trying to yank it out I'm hoping that Hangar 9 spec'd all the tanks to be plumbed a certain way. Otherwise I guess I'll just have to fill it up and see which tube pulls fuel and which one doesn't...
If you are looking into the cowl,,, the clunk line is on the right..hahahaha...have a great day...to funny!!
04-16-2014, 02:00 AM
#90
My Feedback: (53)
I'm not sure anyone else has run into this, but when using the conventional landing gear, the fiberglass upper landing gear fairings, don't match or meet the fuselage very well. Mine were around 1/4 inch shy of mating up with the fuselage, which made for an unsightly match. My solution was to cut a length of black neoprene fuel tubing, slit it down the middle and slide it over the upper portion of the fairing, using some thin CA to hold the tubing onto the uper part of the fairing. The result turned out fairly well, resembling the rubber separator joints that you see on many low-wing airplanes, such as the Beechcraft Bonanza line. 
04-16-2014, 07:28 AM
#92
Join Date: Dec 2001
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Planejaw,
So how do you split neoprene tubing? I've heard of using a wood block with a hole in it, with a #11 blade inserted partially in hole, and you just pull the tubing through.
Curious to hear your method.
So how do you split neoprene tubing? I've heard of using a wood block with a hole in it, with a #11 blade inserted partially in hole, and you just pull the tubing through.
Curious to hear your method.
04-20-2014, 02:14 PM
#96
I'm not sure anyone else has run into this, but when using the conventional landing gear, the fiberglass upper landing gear fairings, don't match or meet the fuselage very well. Mine were around 1/4 inch shy of mating up with the fuselage, which made for an unsightly match. My solution was to cut a length of black neoprene fuel tubing, slit it down the middle and slide it over the upper portion of the fairing, using some thin CA to hold the tubing onto the uper part of the fairing. The result turned out fairly well, resembling the rubber separator joints that you see on many low-wing airplanes, such as the Beechcraft Bonanza line.
04-21-2014, 04:32 AM
#97
My Feedback: (53)
Yes, you'll like the Beaver. Mine is getting near time for the maiden flight. I've had a lot of DLEs and DA engines, so I will be interested to see how the Evolution engine runs and how it compares to other gassers. I run LiFe batteries in my gassers, so likely won't be able to put the front seats in the airplane, as there's not a lot of room once fuel tank has been installed. I will make a mount for the batteries on top of the radio box and also mount some hardwood blocks and a couple screws to hold down the top of the radio box, as I don't trust only magnets to hold on batteries in all flight situations. I will have room for the back seats, though. This should help keep the CG far enough forward, but there always is a possibility of needing lead up front due to the short nose. The instrument panel covers up the rear of the fuel tank, but the top of the panel does not extend up all the way to the windshield. It still helps hide things, though. I'm also using some very small screws to hold on the landing-light covers, so that when I find some landing/aircraft lights I want to install, it will be easy to put them in. Should be able to get a balance-check this week and possibly get the engine running.
I also did not use silicone to secure the rear of the fuel tank to the rear fuel-tank cutout on the back of the engine-mount box. I mounted small cup-hooks on either side of the fuel tank on the back of the rear fuel-tank mounting area and added a couple of #64 rubber bands to hold the tank in. Fuel lines need to be replaced annually, so it's a little cleaner installation and won't be hard to remove the tank.
Yes, anytime you're out in the Kalamazoo area, stop on out. We fly at the Gilmore Car museum, northeast of Kalamazoo. Nice weather on Thursday evenings or Friday afternoons are the best time.
The dummy radial-engine mounted well with silicone. Though this photo does not show it, afterward I painted the area between the cylinders with flat-black acrylic paint, to allow the dummy cylinders to visually "pop-out" a little more.
I also did not use silicone to secure the rear of the fuel tank to the rear fuel-tank cutout on the back of the engine-mount box. I mounted small cup-hooks on either side of the fuel tank on the back of the rear fuel-tank mounting area and added a couple of #64 rubber bands to hold the tank in. Fuel lines need to be replaced annually, so it's a little cleaner installation and won't be hard to remove the tank.
Yes, anytime you're out in the Kalamazoo area, stop on out. We fly at the Gilmore Car museum, northeast of Kalamazoo. Nice weather on Thursday evenings or Friday afternoons are the best time.
The dummy radial-engine mounted well with silicone. Though this photo does not show it, afterward I painted the area between the cylinders with flat-black acrylic paint, to allow the dummy cylinders to visually "pop-out" a little more.
04-22-2014, 02:38 AM
#99
My Feedback: (53)
Have a spinner adapter and a 2 1/2" spinner that I'm going to use. The seats are also not installed yet, but put her all together last night and checked the CG. She's spot on, balancing near the rear limit, which is right in the ballpark. with fuel, she'll definately be good.
I used some servo screws installed just in front of the front door hinge line, and captured the instrument panel. You want to be able to remove the panel to get at the fuel tank when needed. On the inside edges of the side of the panel, I put some 1/8" plywood strips for the screws to go into. Placed the batteries in the pilot's side floor area. These are 3200 Hobbico Mah LiFe batteries...the new ones. They're a little smaller and lighter than the 3200s available in the past and should not cause the aircraft a significant imbalance on the left side.
I used some servo screws installed just in front of the front door hinge line, and captured the instrument panel. You want to be able to remove the panel to get at the fuel tank when needed. On the inside edges of the side of the panel, I put some 1/8" plywood strips for the screws to go into. Placed the batteries in the pilot's side floor area. These are 3200 Hobbico Mah LiFe batteries...the new ones. They're a little smaller and lighter than the 3200s available in the past and should not cause the aircraft a significant imbalance on the left side.
