Dr. Pepper

My Feedback: (1)

OK, some of the bloom is back.

1. Soaked the gear struts overnight in WD40. Loosened up and work fine. Really neat, set the plane on the floor, push down from the wing mounts and they flex as advertised. Great gear setup.

Caution about all of the thru bolts required on the gear, very few can be tightened due to the fittings having to flex. I used the locknuts provide with a dollop of locktite and hope everything stays together. Every fitting needs a drop of oil or ir sqeeks.

2. Wheels - The Du-bro 1/4 scale wheels with the "Cub" hubcaps are so neat it is almost a must. However the Du-bro wheels are foam and look like it and will look pretty ragged in a short time, particulary if you fly off pavement.

I have a set of Du-Bro 4.5" rubber inflatabels on a Senior Telemaster, the hubs on the Cub wheels look like they will fit, if not I will drill the inflatabel hubs to take the Cub hubcaps. Let you know later. If Du-Bro would sell the caps as a seprate item and then buy the rubber wheels it would be the best of both worlds. This landing gear is so awesome it seems a shame to have cheap foam wheels on it (at $25.00 a pair the Du-Bro foam ain't cheap, just looks like it).

3. Starting to have second thoughts about the Saitp 182T and am not impressed with the numbers on the OS160, lot of weight with not a lot of oomph, what is everone else using? Perhaps a big single 4S (Saito180?) is the way to go....

4. Question about scale and the perception thereof. If you fit an 18" doll in the cockpit (1/4 scale 6 footer) he looks really jammed in there. (I know the Cub is cramped, learned to fly in a J-3). Try a doll around 18 - 20 percent and it looks more natural, however I still only have the floor boards in, no seats till I get this proportion thing worked out. Anyone have a good source for scale pilots this size?

5. I have the yellow J -3 paint scheme, love it but major mismatch between the cowl yellow and the rest of the plane. Cowl looks a little funny hanging out there.


Work tomorrow, durn it, I need to retire.

builder jim

Bud , need help, crs and my notes on this are not here. covering is world tex fabric,balsarite to hold on, what do ypu use to bury the overlap seams, memory hits me, that you mix talcum powder and either butyra or nitrate dope to make filler for the seams, sand very easy. would you know if this is right and which type of dope? this will be painted with laquar. thank you jim

builder jim

Ben diss, did you do your own graphics? or if not whom?, either way looks very nice,tell us some more, eng servos and thier arrangment, built per instructions? thanks jim

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

Just some comments:

Cheap hardware? Maybe the nuts and bolts, but there's Sullivan control horns and DuBro pull-pull stuff in the box. Everything that was in the box fit just fine.

I don't usually change anything on review models, but in order for me to attend and participate at IMAA events with the DP Super Cub, the 2-56 aileron and flap rods need to be changed to 4-40. Not necessarily for strength, just for the cockamamy IMAA rules.

The DuBro Cub wheels ay be foam filled, but the tread is rubber. The very light wheels in the kit, however, are solid foam.

The book says "...12.5 pounds and up...". I must have one of the "and up" versions. I weighed the airframe minus servos, engine, battery, etc. Just what comes in the box. It weighs 11.5 pounds. Show me a set of servos, and engine, a battery and a fuel tank that weighs 1 one pound.

I used an OS 160 twin (44 ounces with dowel stand-offs), an on-board glow lighter and battery (14 ounces) and a 5 cell nimh battery (5 ounces) Everything else is what comes in the box. Total weight of my plane is 16.5 pounds dry.

BUT, on the opposite side of the coin, the wing loading is 23 ounces per square foot. That's trainer-like.

Flying to be done when my pilot figure and instrument panel arrive.

Brylee

Dick and everyone
A couple of stupid questions if you don't mind.
1. Are you concerned with using CA on the horizontal stab as opposed to epoxy. I'd rather use the ca it's eaiser to deal with then epoxy but I was concerned about strength.
2. I have the Dubro wheels. Is there any trick to drilling them out for the Cub axles? And what bit would you use?
3. You need to be AArrrnold to get the gear to flex. What do you suggest to loosenen them up?
4. Finally and most important (and most stupid) I'm not sure which airlerons go on which wing half. No matter which way I put it on there doesn't seem to be enough throw as per the manual.
Thanks

Ben Diss

My Feedback: (23)

Builder Jim- This is an electric conversion. I used an Actro 40-6 on 30 cells (or 10S3P). RTF weight is 16.5 with CP-2400 cells. It'll be a little less once I go to LiPos. The graphics are my own. I cut them from Ultracote.

Brylee- I attached the stab with CA per the instructions. It's real strong. Don't forget there are flying wires to reinforce it. Believe me, that stab isn't going anywhere. The gear seem stiff but they're perfect once you get the airplane together. I wouldn't worry about that until you have everything assembled. The ailerons were no problem for me. I didn't quite get the throw the manual calls for, but in flight they're just fine.

-Ben

Brylee

Ben Thanks
Any thoughts on drilling out the Dubro two piece hubs?

Ben Diss

My Feedback: (23)

I used Kavan light wheels available from Hobby-Lobby. They have a spacer that fit perfectly. For drilling out a hub, the best way is to measure the axle and find the right sized drill. If you need a digital caliper I recommend the one Homier sells for $15. See: http://www.homier.com/itemdetail.asp?i=01390&c=58.

-Ben

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

Jim, On the world tex covering you must be talking about your PA-16....I've never used that material and have always covered with super coverite and have never used anything under it to hold, there were a few sags from time to time after sitting but always took them out with a heat gun. I did try balsarite once but didn't like it. However, I did spray my antic fuse and tail surfaces with Lustre Kote clear prior to covering and then brushed on several coats of nitrate after covering and have not had one sag or wrinkle and it's been sitting for over a year waiting for me to finish the wings. Don't know where I came up with that idea but it worked for me and I will be using same when I cover my BUSA cub. I did not sand after spraying...think maybe it stood the wood fibres up and by not sanding there was something there to grab the covering. On the seams....there are several methods and everyone has their own ideas but you can use spackling paste as it accepts paint and can be faired in with light sanding.

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

Way to go John! Glad you found one. If you got one from another modeler shipping must have been dear. Good luck.

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

More comments and answers:

THIN CA works fine on the joint between the stab and the fuselage. Don't go overboard because it may leak all the way through and come out the other side (No I didn't)

Find a drill bit (it's a standard size) that is just a bit bigger than the axke. Drill out one side of the hub, then the other one, not all at one time. It fits the axle fine.

The telescoping tubing may be painted shut. It takes a little oil to ge tthem moving.

Don't put the ailerons or flaps all the way against the trailing edge of the wing. Place them so you have the recommended travel. There will be a hinge gap, but this plane is slow and this gap won't matter anyway.

John_RedSox

My Feedback: (75)

Yes! I'm psyched. I'm planning to put a Magnum 160 twin in her. Thanks for letting me post in this forum. John

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

Glad you're here John, picture's are required if you're gonna post here He,He.




Bud

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

Question to all of you who have the OS160, haven't got mine yet and am wondering, will it fit inside the cowl with no problems?

Bud

Ben Diss

My Feedback: (23)

Which tail looks better? I usually use this little hornet graphic on my planes, but I don't think it looks right here. Should I go with the stripe instead?

orvel

My Feedback: (1)

For all you guys who are a bit skeptical about engine choices--OS160 twin, etc. I'm going with a Saito 150S, spoke to Dave and he feels should be perfect for the Cub, even a 1.20 would be good. Obviously scale Cub wheels is the way to go, however I don't like the new ones from Dubro, as Dr. Pepper says they're foam on the inside and also they don't have the all important "Good Year" logo on the sidewall. Guess what, I called Dubro and lucked out, they had a brand new pair of old style inflatables and sold them to me. You guys might want to try that route, if enough people show interest they might go back to inflatables. I don't know why they went to the foam, cost I bet!

Happy Flying!

orvel

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

Hornets cute but stripe looks more cub.

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

Dick, what kind of dowel standoffs did you use and where can I get them for my 160?

Bud

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

The dowel standoffs I used are just 1" hardwood dowels cut to the correct length, and drilled through with a clearance hole for #10 bolts that hold the engine to the firewall.

I added fender washers between the OS engine mount and the dowels to prevent crushing. The joint between the dowels and the firewall are OK.

BTW, the "correct length" depends on your particular plane. You have to measure the distance from the firewall to the front of the cowl, add 1/8", subtract the length of your engine and figure in the thickness of the fender washers.

The result will be the length of the dowels, more or less.

Here's some photos

Brylee

Dick Thanks for the help. The Dubro wheels drilled out just fine.
I am planning on putting in a 150 side mounted as per the instructions. Any thoughts on a muffler. I was going to go with the slimline pitts ($89 ouch) but what the hell.
A couple of other questions if you don't mind. I usually fuel proof the inside front of the fuse where the tank goes. Are you doing this?
Also do you find that the slots for the horizontal and vertical stabs rudder and elavators are shallow and need a lot of "openning".
BTW your cub looks great. Good luck.

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

I have a Slimline Pitts muffler, never used, but has a "dent" in it where it used to hit the carburetor. If you want it, I'll sell it for $50.00 shipped.

The stock muffler may fit but needs an extension of some sort.

I sometimes paint some white glue in the tank compartment, but usually depend on the assembly of the tank to keep things dry.

Yes, the hinge slots are nowhere deep enough. Lots of digging to get them cleared out. The hardwood trailing edge doubler on the stab didn't make it any easier either.

I used Pacer Hinge Glue on my hinges. Works just fine and water clean-up.

Brylee

If it's not too big of a dent you got a deal. I have to buy a standard muffler and extension for the engine otherwise. Email me at [email protected]. The hinges are a *****. I feel like I'm digging in the coal mines. I was going to spray some clear coat in the front of the fuse. I figgured that's the easiest way to get in there.

farmerric

My Feedback: (11)

Dick
Sure glad you are building this airplane...I'm looking forward to the tips that can come from your experience. I JUST GOT MINE and so far I've only been able to admire it in the box. The comments about an OS 160 being somewhat heavy and underpowered are a little alarmist.. I have a 1/4 scale cub weighing 17 lbs dry with a OS 160 twin and glo driver set up, similar to what you describe, and it flies like a ***** cat. light as a feather wheel landings (when I'm hot), etc. No sign of heaviness. I use an 18x8 MA classic prop and get about 6900 rpm. I use the big prop primarily for noise reduction and it works great. I plan to use this set up in the DP cub. The OS 160 fits like a glove, as you show in your pix. Good luck and frequent posting!

Brylee

Just spoke to Dave about the airleron throws. He confirms what Dick said in his post. To get the proper throws epoxy the hinge pins all the way into the airleron. Then, after they are set, install in the wing but not all of the way. Leave a gap between the airleron and the trailing edge so that you can get the proper throw. Apparently this was left out of the manual but will be included in future printings.

hayman1

My Feedback: (5)

Good Evening Guys
It seems that some of the excitement of the earlier post is missing now that the assembling has started. I ask because i was just about to consider the Super Cub as my next project,and I'm wondering if the guys that have received the cub think that it is a $600.00 Arf. I allready have the H9 super cub and it is close to the same size as the DP Super,but it's at $289.00 shipped,is the DP cub that much better in quality?I hate to pin anyone down but this is what this is all about.