Uh-Oh!

I think I understand, you're worried about up inside the fuselage, the bracket the struts attach to? I don't have an amswer for you on that. I keep my flying Cub in one piece and the ARF is in storage. I figured on having to drill a hole in the bracket to get the landing gear bolt in place and seated. On the outside, there is no interferance between the strut bolts and the gear.

BillPTC

Did not thank obout drilling thru the bracket but that may work. Will look at using lock nut on inside instead of using blind nuts. Do less modification and can keep my Robart gear if I get rid of Cub by putting old gear on it. Will try and work on it this weekend.
Thanks
Bill

jdr43

Hi All, I have been using small plastic ty-raps to secure the struts to the fuse on my pnp cub 40. A lot faster and easier than the not and bolt set up, and they are cheap so I just cut them off when I'm done flying for the day. Just a suggestion.

Jim R
Club Saito # 510

BillPTC

Got my Robart gear mounted. Put a sheet of plywood between the rails inside. Moved the gear forward a 1/4 inch and missed the strut strap inside with 4-40 bolt and lock nuts. Works great. Picture attached
Bill PTC

uri

Hi – need some help…
I made my maiden flight last weekend and experienced some problems with the engine overheating.
I am using an OS 46 FX with an APC 11X6 propeller.
My cowl is cut as shown in the instructions (an opening in the right side and in the cowl bottom for the muffler).
The engine mixture was set for full power then enriched by ~3-5 clicks for better cooling.
During the second flight the engine started to make strange noises, after the landing it was extremely hot and took along time to cool. On the third flight I enriched the mixture even more but same phenomena returned.
I am flying with the OS 46 on other planes and never had this problem,
Did any one else experience engine overheating on his piper cub?
Thanks,

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

What brand fuel? % Castor?

uri

The fuel is based on KLOTZ. it is self maid by a friend who has a rich experience in the business. I am 99% sure it is %5 Nitro (or between 5 to 10%).
I use this fuel on all my planes and it is very reliable and clean (the engines love it )
Thanks,

Yaniel

this thread hasnt seen any action in a few months... anyone still flying their cub? I finally picked one up last week after debating with myself for months on making the job to glow from electrics. when i finished putting it together i was in awe at how beautiful it was (Regardless of the crushed rudder lol). i took it out to the field and got some help from an instructor there, he took it up the first time and trimmed it out and gave it back, flew beautifully, took the entire field to land too. he gave me some tips for the next flight for the take off and it got off the ground ok, wasnt the prettiest take off but it worked. had a few more uneventful flights and then the 5th take off came back to bite me.

started the ground roll with some elevator to keep the tail planted but forgot to let off when it started building speed and it came off the ground, stalled and dropped a wing... nose first into the grass. must say i got to test the strength of the air frame and i was impressed. a little crack in the balsa behind the wing area, a cracked canopy and hatch, and a little of the fuselage came unglued. about 15 dollars in parts for a crash i thought would've been much worse.

i like the skill this plane requires compared to my electrics, i'm used to giving it throttle, pulling back and the plane leaping off the ground in 5 feet or less. this definitely requires much more finesse and will result in making me a better flier. it taught me that i wasnt as good as i thought i was either.. but i cant wait til next weekend to give it another go with the lesson learned from this last flight.

mobyal

Great report and you're really going to enjoy this one.
Your experience isn't at all unusual. Surprised yuo didn't bend the wing tube too!
This model flies a lot like the real one, in that the most important control on it is the RUDDER. You have to stay on it all the time, from the time the airplane starts the takeoff roll until it comes to a dead stop after landing. And the model at times is harder to take off than the full scale, at least the 46 glo version is, because the engine torque factor is much greater than the full scale and rudder has to be both timed well and there can be a lot of it necessary. It can be a real squirrel on takeoff. Plus as you've found, it will float on you on landing! That's probably not as great a problem w/ electric as w/ the glo; as I've told people w/ the glo version, make sure you have a nice low idle, otherwise you're gonna be up there for a while.
I really enjoy flying this model, even more than the 1/4 scale, because it's so much less hassle to dael with.
Good luck!

jdr43

Sounds pretty normal I have had the same experiance with my H9 Cub, 40 size. I have found it a lot easier to take off by adding throttle slowly. I installed a OS-55ax and it takes off at about 1/2 throttle.

Jim R

Yaniel

haha, forgot to mention, i also bent the wing tube. and its back ordered on horizon. i bent it back to shape but i dont really trust to use it, even though the cub shouldnt stress it much. i dont have a set of calipers, so any idea what size the tube is so i can try to find a replacement?

mobyal

I had the wing tube bend when I hung a wingtip in the tall grass at the edge of the runway doing a touch and go. Horizon had them on backorder then, too (this was in June, if memory serves). I don't know the diameter, but I just took the (bent) tube to Lowes and found an aluminum tube the same outer diameter, cut it to the proper length, and installed it. Works great.

Slviper

Cub Fans
Still love flying my H 9 Cub looks and flies like a real plane. It can make you look silly on take offs if you do not feed in the right amount of rudder at the right time!

Uh-Oh!

Ditto. Still a favorite. I also enjoy being able to transport it without taking it apart (Suburban) which is even better.

airbusdrvr

I have well over 200 flights on my Hangar 9 Cub and one thing to watch for with the landing gear. Takeoffs will be a lot more stable if you bend the wheels so they angle inward at the bottom and are angled in(toe in) when looking at them from the front. Believe me it will make a difference. Plus all the other advice about only using partial power on takeoff. Mine has an OS 70 four stroke and I probably only use 1/4 power or less on takeoff. After airborne, I then add more power and climb out. And I don't use any up elevator for takeoff. Whatever it was trimmed for on the previous landing is what it gets for takeoff. Once it lifts off on its own, then gently back on the stick with the addition of more power and she is away.

Yaniel

i'm going to do that to my landing gear now, hopefully it helps! Thanks

Yaniel

airbusdrvr: how did you bend the gear? did you heat it up? i tried bending it now with a couple of pliers but it seemed like it wanted to snap.

airbusdrvr

I removed the gear assy from the airplane(the four plastic straps and screws on the fuse bottom). I mounted the gear assy in a vice(using one of the cross pieces that attach to the fuse) protecting the wire with a cloth. Then use an almost closed adjustable wrench(closed to fit the axle diameter) to bend the axle to the desired angle. The amount of bending is small. I didn't at any time think it was bending in an amount that would break the wire. We are probably talking about no more than a few to maybe 10 degrees. Enough to have the wheels just noticeably toed inward.

Yaniel

thanks for the toe and camber info. i got the plane all fixed up and tried it again today, it rolled much truer with the bend gear.

first attempt i almost dorked it in the same way as my last flight, but this time it was dumb thumbs plus not checking the trims. while i was repairing the plane i must have moved the elevator trim because it had full up elevator. the bad trim, plus my little bit of up elevator made the plane leap off the ground once it got any speed and proceed to stall. i was able to give it full throttle plus full right aileron and right rudder and it leveled off right before hitting a wing.


came back around and tried again, this time didnt touch the elevator and it came off the ground by itself but kept flying and i noticed it was porpoising a lot, so i kept on adding down trim til it leveled off. the trim was apparently at full up when i took off because it took a long time for it to reach the center again. i came around landed, and attempted another take off. this time with the trim set properly it rolled beautifully and came off the ground slowly and very scale like and made a very graceful climb. the next 2 take offs where pretty much the same. i must say i love this plane, its a huuge departure from aerobatic electrics and the ground handling requires a smooth touch.

i had the timer set at 18 minutes, i didnt turn it on until after the preflight checks and the taxi out, so that must have been about 3 minutes. i flew the 18 minutes the timer was going and then taxi'd back and ran the motor for about 3 more minutes and i still had a lot of fuel left. i guess its because i use just enough throttle to keep the plane in the air to keep it looking scale.

sorry for the essay, i'm just a bit excited

fly24-7

Hi all:

Can someone tell me the size of the pushrod hardware on this plane? It has the minimum wingspan to make it IMAA legal. But, I believe the IMAA wants 4-40 pushrods. I think this plane may have 2-56 hardware. I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks, Tom

Yaniel

i made an aerial video from my cub powered with a saito 72

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0UlVTXaowQ

airbusdrvr

Neat video. What camera and equipment are you using? If it is 2.4Ghz, are you flying a 72Mhz or 2.4Ghz aircraft receiver? I had toyed with a camera system, but know nothing about them. I was also concerned if the 2.4Ghz camera systems might interfere with the airplane receiver.

Yaniel

its just a little cam that records to a 1gb sd card. heres a link to one on ebay but i think they're asking way to much for it http://cgi.ebay.com/FLYCAMONE-Micro-...QQcmdZViewItem

i fly on 2.4 with a spektrum dx7 but i cant really help much on the topic of interference since i've never used a 2.4 camera system.

gluemaster

I have to say I'm very impressed by this plane, both with the way it looks and the way it flies. I got mine the first week in January as a Christmas gift. When it arrived the covering on the rudder was a little wrinkled and the rudder was a bit warped at the top. No biggie though as a quick once over with the covering iron fixed it. The Y-harness for the ailerons was missing the connector as well. I called Horizon and they sent me a new Y-haness. On my first flight the engine quit about 2 minutes into the flight, perfect deadstick landing. I readjusted the carb, topped off the tank and took off again, this time about 5 minutes into the flight the left wheel fell off. Horizon sent me a new set of wheels no questions asked. What great customer service. My initial flights were truly plug and play, no aileron differential set up in my radio, nothing set up the way it should have been. Now that everything is set up correctly, this thing flies great, the Evolution 46 runs great. This has to be one of my favorite planes. I may try to pickup the H-9 40 size Pawnee next.

ARF Guy

Mid-air collision and got her down in one piece!

Today, one of the clearer and sunnier days we've had lately for flying, associate club member Ted and myself, both of us with over 30 years each in RC, had a FIRST! Our planes met about 100' up, about 25 yards past the far side of the runway and almost directly opposite the flight stations. There were four of us in the air including Ted with his electric Yak and me with my 80" Hanger 9 J3 Cub. I was heading North on a downwind leg to make a right to left landing and I believe Ted was flying at a somewhat reduced speed to cool his battery, above and also traveling North. With four planes in the air, I was pretty much focused on my plane and flying slow and level. I hear the unmistakable MonoKote/balsa impact sound and saw Ted's debris pretty much spray past my plane and my plane made a marked dip to the right. It began a spiral so I fed in full opposite rudder and aileron and partially leveled it out. I had cut the throttle as it began to spiral and never resumed power. I was able to semi-control the circling decent until it landed in the sandy wash almost directly below the collision point, then nosed over. Club VP Gary was "first on the scene" and righted the plane to show an impressive amount of damage to the right wing.

Upon examination of the damage back in the pits, the right wing had 9 inches of leading edge missing, expanding to a hole 11 inches from remaining rib to remaining rib back to the trailing edge spar. Hanger 9's functional aluminum struts and a little trailing edge were all that held the outer 15 or so inches of wing on. The fuselage former behind where the tubular spar goes through the cabin popped a glue joint and the right side landing gear is bent and should be easily straightened. A red scrape with the sheeting cracked is the only damage to the left wing panel and the cowl had some minor damage from nosing over on a large stone. All control surfaces functioned normal and outside of the fuel tank clunk stuck in the front of the tank, the engine started and ran fine. A piece of Ted's red covering without any balsa whatsoever on it was stuck in the rudder hinge line with no damage to the plane. The prop wasn't even broken.

Basically the right wing is the only real damage and the plane should fly again. Ted's plane was a total loss. Like the veteran RC pilots we are, we shook hands and chalked it up to one of those RC flying accidents that eventually happens to everyone. Oh, and as far as Hanger 9 ARF's? The plane's excellent construction and strength are without question and I highly recommend them!

ARF Guy