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David

The wing is about 840 sq. inches and the fuse is 60" long. It has a recess like for an RE headed but it is only an inch or so right behind the engine cut out. (see below)

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doxilia

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Whoa!

monster Tipo Don!

I'm stretching my memory here but I think that may have been called the Tipo+ and as I alluded to previously, it is closely related to the Hippo but doesn't have the full pipe tunnel. Great classic for the new NR Speed/13 with its equivalent monster power.

The thing is that Dick and company (DHM) had so many incarnations of the Tipo during those days that it is hard to track and know how many were actually produced (whether serially or as test models) and where they ended up. It is just as possible for this Tipo to have been a one off test model as it might have been an actual serial production kit - even if it has a glass fuse.

Unless the owner or someone like Mark (impactiq) or Dick himself can shed any more light, I can't confirm one way or another which Tipo in particular this is. Whatever version, it is unique and quite likely, the largest glass Tipo ever produced. If you ask me, it is worth adding to the preservation effort.

But what can I say - I am a Tipo junkie!

David

impactiq

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David,

That looks like the 750 fuse to me. The biggest thing about the Tiporare line up is after the 720 (most famous one first kitted by WK and then Great Planes) was that the later tipo kits could be ordered with different wings and stabs. I have a few pictures when I had my fuses dug out that shows the differences as far as the fuses goes. I'll dig those up and post them.

Mark

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Mark
I have the 750 Tipo Molds done and I have the 720 Tipo molds also done. This is definetly not either one of those. This is at least 5 inchs longer than the other two that I already have.

I am going to mold it and reproduce it for a kit and just want to lable it correctly. If it is a Tipo Plus model or some other name we can give it that.

I would then still be looking for a Hipo Tipo to mold that has the pipe indentation down the side. I habe a couple of other leads perhaps one of those will send in their Hipo Tipo's so I can mold it.

impactiq

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There was a Tipo Plus that was in the mix. The tipo plus was right before the hippo tipo as far as the line up goes. IF memory serves me correct...... the only difference between the tipo plus fuse and hippo tipo fuse is the pipe indent.

frequent flyer

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Thanks for the imput.It helps.

doxilia

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Thanks for chiming in Mark.

Don, it sounds like Mark's and my recollection are similar. My thinking is that the T+ and the HT are also the same model except for the tunnel.

The development sequence would therefore have been:

Tipo 720
Tipo Plus (825)
Hippo Tipo (825)
Tipo 750 (slightly larger than the T720 classic)
Tipo Surpass (~690) - 4s90

Paul, Ralph, does this coincide with Dick's story in the NECPO NL?

David

impactiq

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As promised, here is a picture of three fuses from the tipo line up. Top one is the 720. Middle is the 750. Bottom one is the Tipo Surpass.

Patrick F

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Hi Don Simply AMAZING you are a craftsman I have bin following this thread and it is awesome to see the process on making these molds I do have a question how do you mate the 2 half's together for me that seems to be the hardness part can not figure out how that is done.

Pat
Lasercut USA

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You prepare you plug (the part you are going to mold) and put it into a parting board or table with the surface at the center line of the part. You anchor it there with putty and blocks on the back side. You wax the part and the board with mold parting wax, then spray it with PVA mold release. You then lay up the part and when it is dry you remove the part from the board the you lay up the second half. when it is dry you split it, trim the edges etc. and remove the original part.
If you used the correct materials and applied all correctly then you should have a bubble free mold. Sounds easy, and it is after you've done a few dozen and figured everything out.

Hope that helps you visualize the process.

Roguedog

Pat,

I read that your asking how to join the 2 fuse halfs not the mold half's. Is that right?

If that's your question good luck on getting a detailed answer as that's the most important part which also is a closely held secret as those making money making the fuses aren't likely to share that info as it would cut into their profits. I do understand their reasoning so I'm not knocking it, just saying.

I've searched the internet for a video or threads of the actual joining process. I can find tons of info on building molds or building plugs but not the actual process that leads to a complete fuse from joining two laid up halves.

Best info I have is that when you build the molds you have to leave openings at each end of the molds, large enough to laminate 2 previously finished halves together inside the mold with a 1 inch strip or fiberglass.

So the process is this to the best of my knowledge follows this process after the molds are build

1. lay up the two fuse halves with the mold separated in two.
2. trim the glass down to the top of mold halves.
3. join the 2 mold halves together with the laid up fuse halves still in the mold
4. within a few hours of the initial lay ups before fully cured laminate the 2 fuse halves together through the openings in the mold.

There are other ways but this method is the best way to align the fuse halves together.

Regards

Bryan

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Hey Brian
That's about it. I thought he wanted to know how to make the halves of the mold, opps. Thanks for clearing that up.

Or should I say ... Dooough!

JRgraham

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Had to bring this back up to the front page I may try to squeeze some dough out soon for an LA-1 from you soon..
but just for something to chew on.. I know where I MIGHT be able to talk a guy out of a Dash-5 kit.. It would need to be built first, but who knows.. maybe I can get that worked out in the months ahead, build it and send it your way. I love that one, and would be a nice addition to your mold collection.

-JR

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Love to do it.

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The Banshee kit molds are finished and kits are shipping this week.
The Brushfire kit molds are finished and kits are shipping this week.
The Miss Beetle kit molds are also finished and kits will be shipping this week.

Another New product I am also selling are 1 1/2" diameter cut off abrasive wheels for your Dremel , 10 pack for $15.00 plus shipping, if ordered with any other part or kit then the shipping is free. These were specially made for RcAiir and are far superior than any other on the market. I've tried all of them and these last many times longer than any others I could find.. These are Not those inferior wheels sold on that auction site that fall apart in a couple of minutes. Make no mistake these are the best.

JRgraham

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Awesome! Funny I was just cussing a bit yesterday while cutting some pushrod material, and how good cut off wheels are hard to come by these days!

Could I ask what shipping would typically be for an average kit within the states? (To Oregon for example)

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Shipping & insurance in the USA west coast is About $30.00 and east coast is about $42.00 using USPS

propnuter

Any plans to produce Hanno's Suprastar in the future ? Is it considered classic ?

Shane

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None at the moment, does anybody have one to use as the plug to make the molds?

MTK

If the part is small, such as wheel pants for example, sand each half on a flat surface to get a square mating surface. Fit the two halves and tempararily join them with ca to hold the fit. Then add reinforcement on the inside seam. For pants I add carbon tow across the joint first in several places, then come back over the top of the tow with bias cut glass of the same weight as the initial molding...

For larger parts, such as canopies or cowls with a flanged mating surface, the mold is made in such a way as to separate into two pieces along the center of the part, with an opening underneath. The two halves are secured with nuts and bolts while the mold has the male part still in it. It builds an extremely accurate joint later on with no mismatched seams

In molding a part, each half is laid up individually leaving a strip unglassed on center, to be completed after joining the two mold halves. Then I add the final strip of glass on center, overlapping 1/2" or so. Once cured, the part has a slight amount of flash on the seam area which is only epoxy and is easily sanded off. There is no seam per se'. It is stronger and lighter than mating two halves together after the fact. One may also form vacuum sandwiches (composites) with this type of mold. If I want a part to be stiff, I add foam and lay up a sandwich composite.

Don can talk about his fuselage joining if he wants. My fuselage joining is yet untried so I have nothing more to add.

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Matt

That's not the way I do it. I lay up each half. After a few hours of drying I trim the parts. Bolt the two halves together and use a fiberglass cloth tape and resin to join them. It requires using small brushes on dowels, etc. to reach inside the mold and apply the tape to the seam. Not the fun part, that's for sure, it's dark in there.........

JRgraham

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Anything new been molded recently?

Curious too, what extra cost to lay something up in full carbon? Maybe for example, an LA-1 in full carbon? Or if that is even an option?

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I've done a few in all carbon for customers in Germany they were very light and very stiff! I used two layers and of course you must vacuum bag carbon to get the air out. They were about half the weight almost. Amazing how light they were. I was even surprised. Would be great for electric power. But the cost was $285.00 more than the regular kit price. That was just to cover the cost I had in carbon fiber and the materials to vacuum bag them, believe it or not! There is also additional time involved because you must be very diligent working with the carbon fiber because you don't want at disorient the weave, which is very easy to do if precautions are not taken while cutting and handling it.

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The BrushFire is new and I've been taking orders for the Tipo Plus which is almost done being molded. I've also do some new parts like a 1/4 scale Cub cowl, and the Bob Nelitz 1/3 Cub cowl.

MTK

JR,

There is a company in Washington I think that sells carbon cloth and tow at about half the price of most other sources. I've not purchased from them since I have quite a supply of the stuff already, but when I'm ready, I will. They are called Carbon Fiber Deals.

As Don sez, cost is higher and prep is greater but the ligthness may be worth the cost to some. Personally, I prefer the vacuum formed composites with balsa and foam core material. More work to be sure, but the final product is very lightweight, stronger and stiffer than any single material lay-up. Of course, Classics were all single material lay-ups back in the day, often built from heavier cloth to produce a reasonably stiff part that was adequately strong part.