Marian

Hello,

I was catched by Peppermit Pattie by reading about this plane here and there. In fact, the plan was to build a Hog Bipe after my Kaos is finished. And why did I build a Kaos? Because I had to wait for more than one month to receive the Hog Bipe, so meanwhile I did not want to have my workbench empty…

I was considering whether to start this thread or not, but I observe that there are more people interested in smaller pattern ships.
Now that wing cores are available again, it is possible that more people will build them, and it is always interesting to see and share progress with other builders.

I will resume quickly what I have done so far.

Regards.

Marian

PS. Another purpose of building PP is to check if it is really so quick flyer as some say.

Marian

Wing:

I have made a classic balsa wing. I have used Profily to generate ribs. (10 equidistant ribs per wing half + one rib in the place of fuselage sides.)
I have respected original airfoil and shape of the wing.

Main spar is pine 3x8 mm and auxiliary spar is balsa 3x3 mm

The wing is going to be held by two dowels (4 mm diam.) and two nylon screws M4.
The dowels are held by leading / subleading edge and two pieces of balsa glued between ribs 1 and 2:

Marian

Till now I have been building wings using rib tabs. For this one, I have decided to make a wing jig. I have seen many variations, I have decided for this one:

The only problem was to find absolutely flat pieces of hardwood. Threads are made directly to the wood using a bolt and then screwing threaded rods.
I did not attach it to any base. Instead I put it on a flat table and check with Robart incidence meter that there is no unwanted wash out included. In this way I can make a wing in a living room and break those stupid stereotypes - that we spend all our time in the workshop or flying.

Marian

Fuselage:

Wing doublers and triange stock are glued to the fuselage sides. I have inluded angeled cut to the sides (behind former 3) for belly piece.

I have changed a little bit shape of former 1, because I am planning to use MVVS .15 with rear exhaust and it will help me to fit it better.

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Hello guided missile!!!

David

Marian

Oh yes. I expect it to be really fast [sm=shades_smile.gif] . Once I red, it is a good idea to take some photos before flying it with this engine.

I cut my own balsa sticks (squere and tri stock) with the cutter:

alcarafa

Marian your job looks very nice and clean, by the way do you build rockets or pattern planes ? another good option for rocket flying could be the OS .15CV-A http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXD72&P=ML

Is a good idea to take a picture ... just for the memories !!!!!


Rafa.

Marian

As a preparation for this project I have purchased ASP / Magnum .15. It is just 32 euro shipped to Madrid.
But I am still more inclined to that old MVVS with clear signs of many fligts

Marian

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

That's a very nice balsa stripper. Did you make it or buy it somewhere?

I can see that someone was smart enough to run plenty of castor oil through the MVVS. It's probably in excellent running condition.

David

WEDJ

I will be most interested to follow this build

alcarafa

Keep the good job going it will shure be a rocket plane !!!!!

Marian

Elevator:

The plan calls to do it from balsa sticks 1/4 x ... . As I have mentioned before, in hot summer plants around our flying field become very hard as they dry. The very first landing on them would perforate the covering.
So I decided to use balsa sticks 5x5 mm (aprox. 3/18") and sheet it with 0,8 mm balsa (aprox. 1/32"). It is more work but no weight increase. If we had grass on our flying field I would done it as it is on the plan.

Marian

Fuselage:
I have finished holes (in F2) with the wing on it´s place to make them fit exactly dowels.
Formers 4 and 5 are glued on their place.

Marian

Hi,

Lot of work, lot of sanding, but not so much to show: I have finished the front part.
I have included removable hatch because it will make instalation of battery and fuel tank much easier. It is hold by one dowel in front and two screws in back. It is still missing a muffler cavity but I will make it later.

You are right Rainedave: this MVVS engine was always run on fuel containing castor (in beginning only castor oil). It is at least 20 years old and it still has the original bearings.
Once, after a long time storage it was almost impossible to turn it (well it was my fault to not check it from time to time) It took me two days to clean it, but once it started it ran as new.

Marian

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Superb craftsmanship. Thanks for the photos.

BTW, congrats on the Euro2008. Will Nadal beat Federer?

David

hrrcflyer

Marian,
Awesome looking so far. Keep up the good work!!

WEDJ,
I bet this build thread brings back alot of good memories.

WEDJ

Sure does.

Marian

Hi,

Thank you for your words.

As David said, we won soccer Euro 2008 (after 44 years ) and Spain was in celebrating mood last three days.
We have some problems with access and permission to fly on our flying field. The townhall is not very clear on it, sometimes they say it is a protected area, than they say it is OK but we are not allowed to make any land improvement, later they say that we should find a new place to fly ... definitivelly being an airplane modeller is not so cool as being a soccer player.
We thought, that maybe we (members of our club) should wear soccer shorts and go to speak to the mayor of the city. Just tell him we are a new team and need a place to play. Surely he would be more receptive. And then, when they assign us a soccer field with nice grass, we could fly our planes there ...

Back to PP:
I will install belly wheel. If you knew the shape of our flying field you would install shock absorbers too.
I have changed a little bit the design of the hatch.

Regards,

alcarafa

Marian best thing to do is.... train your mayor to become a rc pilot and then ....maybe you'll be allowed to use broadway in your town as take off & landing strip

Regards.
Rafa

Marian

Hello,

I could not work on Peppermint Pattie last days as much as I wanted.
I have finished the hatch. It is hold on it´s place by two dowels in front and one nylon M4 screw in back. Now, looking at it, I think I could put two screw instead of one. Not a big weight difference, but I will not change it anymore.

Marian

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

You are doing a beautiful job, Marian. Thanks for sharing your progress with us.

My PP was first powered by a Super Tigre G20/15 pylon racing engine. While it was spirited and utterly reliable, I eventually replaced the ST with an HB .15 R/C engine. Believe it or not, the baffle piston HB was a great deal more powerful than the ST. Both engines were swinging my old, old Top Flite nylon 7x4 prop. The HB .15 absolutely howled with this prop and easily flew past piped .60 pattern ships of the early eighties. It was actually difficult to keep the model within visual range when flying at full throttle. My vision was a little better than average back then.

I have an original PP kit that I am looking forward to building and flying. I must own 9 or 10 HB .15 R/C engines now (collecting them for a bomber), so it shouldn't be too difficult to find one in the bunch that runs as well as my old one did. Now to find another Top Flite nylon 7x4 prop.

My PP was covered in Econokote (red) with a strip of polyester lab tape running along the bottom of the covering. Two pieces, of course. One on the first part of the fuselage and another piece on the bellypan. This lab tape is so tough that after several hundred flights, the Econokote was undamaged after landing upon our not so smooth R/C field (grass & weed stubble). No wheels were necessary at all. Good luck with yours.


Ed Cregger

jjscott

Nice work. I like the hatch/wheel.


Jim

Marian

Thanks,

I am starting to work on the rudder. I have prepared three versions. I am still concerned about landings without landing gears.

I have put the axis of rudder perpendicular to the axis of the plane, because I like the linkage to be perpendicular to hinges.
The first version would protect the most the rudder / servo but I do not like the shape very much.
The second is wider on the top than was the original.
The third one is a good compromise (in my opinion).

If I understand it good, it is SPA legal if it is similar to the original. Do you think that these version of rudder would be still SPA legal?

Which one of them would you choose?

Regards,

Marian

alcarafa

Hi Marian i would choose 2nd one in my opinion it is stronger and could give a better performance on rudder, but I'd like to know someone else's opinion.

Plane is looking really good, congratulations.

Regards.
Rafa

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

I would go with the original vertical stabilizer and rudder. I never had a bit of a problem with my PP without landing gear. I also flew the model at many different flying fields without a problem of any kind. Some were even paved. The polyester lab label tape on the Econokote stood up to sliding on concrete and asphalt without any noticable degradation.

To me, changing the rake angle of the rudder's hinge line would be grounds for disqualification were I the CD. The model is supposed to be very, very close to the original model. Not morphed into something else. But that's just me and my way of thinking.

Ed Cregger