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Alrite oster

I figured i would give you a new challenge, i've been dealing with this every since my last crash and i'm at a loss i can't think of anything else, My titan won't fly, somethings wrong in the head, new feathering & main shaft, new flybar, new flybar paddles, new blades which i have balanced perfectly, for some reason the tracking will not be still, I set the tracking and spin it up, tracking is good till i get 60% thro and all of a sudden 1 blade jumps up about 2 inches higher then the other which makes a loud racket, does'nt make sense i've looked over all the links, and the balls and there all tight, i don't see any broken plastic parts either, Spin it up again and set the tracking, Reach 60% thro and get the samething, i'm sure it's something small that i'm over looking but i'm at a loss, and to fustrated to even think straight.

I'm on the verge of just saying to hell with it and buying a kasama head.

osterizer

Ha, didn't know it was a quiz show . It does sound like there's still something loose or broken in there. You pretty much took the whole top end apart there, so there's a chance one of the pieces isn't back in right. That's what I'd be thinking first- that I'd gotten something put back in wrong- thrust bearing backwards? screw not in tight? Or that there's something else dicey- did you check the mixing arms- they've been known to fracture in a crash? Are the dampers even and not damaged?

You kind of knocked the prime suspect off to start- that behavior's almost always a bent feathering shaft, so after that, it's checking that things aren't broken and they're all screwed together right.

Friday_2006

The above statement i ve made is correct ? Do my servos work at 4,8V or 6V ?

Does anybody with the same receiver and gyro gets the same blinking lights as i do ?

So Osterizer you are right. Voltage wasn't the source of my problem. Tried to play a little by moving the servo front and back and seemed to cure it a bit, but didn't eliminate it. Tail travel is ok, It goes from far left to far right without binding.

Today i ll try to setup tail and head from the beggining and see if that problem stops.

Can you tell us how you did this calculation ?????

Thanks !

osterizer

Sorry it didn't help, but I didn't think it would make a difference .

The Watts (power) to the motor is the Voltage X amps current. The motor specs from the ads are 16A and 29A max, so at about 10.5 to 11 Volts (what you'd expect from a 3S LiPo), that makes about 176 and 319 Watts max, respectively. It would be nice if the ads gave you some of these numbers but they never do.

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My Feedback: (1)

nope no broke mixing arms, they were upgraded to the metal ones after it's first crash, I never pulled the thrust bearings out when i replaced everything, think i'll do that now, maybe something wrong with one of those, and dampners are fine.

Thanks

osterizer

K Wish I had something more, but that's going to be a pretty clear mechanical prob. Much easier to take the head apart and reassemble carefully than try to debug by remote .

The Kasama head isn't that much better in flight by the way, unless you're really flying it out. It's tighter at extreme pitch/cyclic, and it has reduced travel so you don't risk hitting the canopy with the flybar, and it's darn near bulletproof when you crash, but you don't really see a difference otherwise. I'm still not sure it's worth the money.

redbaron9898

My Feedback: (2)

I am setting up my Mini-titan i am using a 35A align esc and align motor
it is my first time setting up a heli and
I read the setup giude for the esc
It says that you are supposed to start with the throttle stick at the highest position when you connect the battery to turn it on
I tries that and it worked but when i move the throttle stick down the motor starts spinning the wrong direction so i disconnected the battery and i felt the esc and it was really hot!
Can you help me with my problem
a few tips on set up would help me greatly
timing? brake? anything would help cuz im a noob to setting up helis

patatchim

@redbaron9898

I can´t help you very much on the heli itself since i´m a noob at helis.

But on electronics:

Try reversing the throttle channel.
For timing you need to know how many poles your motor as, and than set the timing according to your controller manual.
For brakes, try soft brake.

Also, i assume you know this, butt if not here it goes: test all your esc settings with the motor no in the heli, or not connected to the main gear.

Hope this helps.

GRR_Mojo

If the motor spins the wrong way then you need to swap the two colored wires(not black) from motor to ESC reversing the channel will make low high, and high low not what you want. I would go with no brake. Havent fooled with timming mine works fine stock.

patatchim

"I tries that and it worked but when i move the throttle stick down the motor starts spinning the wrong direction so i disconnected the battery and i felt the esc and it was really hot! "


Well he said that he moves the throttle up to arm the esc, when it moves down the esc starts moving the motor, shouldn´t it be stopped? Unless he has the the throttle curve wrong, or setup for 3d, the motor should be stoped when throttle down.
Most esc´s are programmed with this procedure: throttle up, to see range of movement, throtle down, wait 1 or 2 secs, and than arm the esc. Alternative procedure: if no movement is provided on throttle, it waits 4 seconds and arms the esc.

GRR_Mojo

That is the way my castle 35A arms.... throttle stick up,connect batt. 2 sets of tones move throttle down third tone and ready to go.
I guess his throttle curve could be backwards i've never had that problem.
My DX-7 will alarm if you try to power up the raido with the switch in stunt mode.
don't know why the esc would be hot, mine is only a little warm after 6.5 min of flight.

redbaron9898

My Feedback: (2)

I just hovered my mini titan yesterday for the first time and the tail wags up and down (not side to side like a gyro problem)
What is wrong?

smarks

Low head speed maybe??

redbaron9898

My Feedback: (2)

ill try a higher throttle curve
anything else?

noobflyer01

hi guys. i've decided that i'm going to pick the mini titan e325 on friday at my LHS. what servos, gyro, motor , esc would you guys recommend? anything major i should know about this heli? i looked at the manual and looks like its easy to repair. i would like a good setup for some serious headspeed. i have been doing lite 3d and was wondering how this heli will do. any advice is welcomed.

osterizer

Hey, there, noob. You'll like the Mini T- everyone does . Mine has S3153MG swash, S9257 tail, GY401, Castle 35, Castle BEC at 5.1V, Scorpion HK 2221-10 v2, and 4S 1500 Flight Power packs. It's a happy camper from 2500 to 3200+, but it has a metal head on it to be safe at those speeds.

Oh, and you don't have to look any further than Radix for blades .

redbaron9898

My Feedback: (2)

Yes you will like it very much

I got my headspeed up a little but it still wags up and down a little bit
i want to completly get rid of it!
PLEASE HELP

osterizer

redbaron- can you tach the head? It's hard to tell, if upping it helped, if that's the only problem. You could have the blade grips too tight, too. There are a few other possibilities- sloppy flybar, bad dampers -but check the grips and get an RPM measurement first or you might just be chasing ghosts.

noobflyer01

just got the mini titan e325 today. . gonna build it tonight. anything major i should know about during the build?

osterizer

Take your time and make sure you don't over tighten anything- tighten 'til it just binds, then loosen it 'til it turns freely .

Check the ball links as you assemble them. The TT ones run to the tight side, so if they're tight, stop and ream them so they move right before you move on.

Enjoy the build- the TT's the most fun heli I've put together yet . It doesn't take anywhere near the tinkering the Gazaur does!

noobflyer01

thanks for the tips Os. just finished building the head. did you have to glue the paddles to the flybar? manual states to glue...but it seems tight enough without additional glue. i also decided to use the outer holes on the arms for 3d setup. very nice head btw. wish it metal but the plastic used seems high quality.

osterizer

it's a very good heli if nothing warps in the head. Some folks have reported problems with that, but I never had it happen to me.

You probably should leave the paddles til last. Once you have all the electronics in, you can set the swash, mixers, washout and grips to zero- then screw on the paddles and align the flybar frames and paddles to the swash. For full disclosure, I'll tell you that yes, I've flown it without gluing the paddles, but it was because I forgot I hadn't set the flybar up! The right answer is to soak the threads on the flybar with thick CA, then screw on one paddle as far as it makes sense, and align it to the control frames. Screw the other one on with glue the same way, but align that one with the paddle you already lined up, not the frames, then walk away for 12 hours or so to let the glue cure. Then come back and align the control arms and balance the flybar side to side again.

You can leave the glue out, and it will probably be OK but I never would by choice. If one of the paddles shifts in flight, you will have a bad day .

noobflyer01

got it os. just finished the body. i like the way they design the main gear. i didnt know thunder tiger's were german. the one way bearing had german on it. i dont like how its difficult to screw the tiny nut for the jesus bolt. [&:]. did you use needle nose plyers? i dont have a set.[].

osterizer

Yes, needle-nosed pliers make it easy. I also have a set of nut drivers I use if they're handy.

TT is Japanese actually- it's just the bearing that's German.

[edit] Oops, meant Taiwanese. Didn't I say Taiwanese? [/edit]

smarks

Thunder Tiger is actually a Taiwan company.