brodjack

what KV is the Typhoon motor Nick?

LENYLOW

Hi guys, i have a 25" mono it looks very much like the prince, but im not sure weather it is or not, i have
seen it called a number of diffrent things on verious sites.(i got it on ebay)
Anyway i want to replace the stinger strut assembly, the bushing inside is worn and so is the shaft, i have seen
on ebay a stinger that looks identical to mine only it says its 70mm in length where as mine is 55mm.
Would this make a diffrence to the speed/handling?
Also has anyone replaced this with a diffrent one alltogether? basicly i want to use the same holes as i dont
want to have to fill them and drill new ones, i was thinking a 3/16th would be better, but im not sure.
Would it matter that the prop was 15mm or so further away from the rudder with the 70mm replacement?
Below are some pics....

Steve441

15mm should be OK - I like the selection of props available for a 4mm threaded prop shaft - But 3/16th is OK too.

LENYLOW

yes, i have seen there is more available for the threaded shaft, i have not been able to find many for
a 4mm drive dog, so at the mo i have made an adaptor and i am runing a 3/16 440/3

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

LENYLOW:

http://r2hobbies.com/eng/proddetail....od=rcbp1836012

There it is for under $14...

Direct replacement.

I think this is the shaft:
http://r2hobbies.com/eng/proddetail....od=rcbp1837023

R2 has made improvements by giving us dimensions, but they really need to tell us what shaft fits what drive since we dont have all those wonderful parts in front of us!

Ebay prices are higher...

LENYLOW

Thats great! thanks basstronics, they have one left so i better get ordering it....

Yes thats the correct shaft aswell, im not sure but i think the drive dog must be 1/8th
as the thread for the nut is 3mm, does that sound about right to you? the drive dog thats
on there at the mo is smaller than 4mm so i guess it must be.

nick 30

i suggest buying a new 4mm flex shaft with liner and stuffing/brass tube, order it from allan at astecmodels.co.uk, 4mm shaft will give you far more available props mate

nick 30

i'm thinking of using a stinger aswell, the 70mm stinger will be ok

brod mate

the typhoon motors a 1900kv instead of the 1800kv they print the specs with, thats why i run it on 3s in parallel but 4s or 4s in parallel will work as long as you prop it down by a couple mm's

big motor smaller prop

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

The drive dog mine came with was loose ont eh bore. I ended up getting a new one which was better.

That stinger drive is a 4mm propshaft.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Well my Prince has undergone a transformation.

I have upgraded the radio to a 2.4 GHz setup which required me to buy a PiStix.

I have added turn fins.

The most drastic change is the wire drive system. I installed a Jeff Wholt wire drive. 4mm prop shaft, .078" wire. I had a special coupler made also.

Last but not least, I switched out my Ultra Deans for XT60 connections. I love these things already! Easier to solder- dont fall apart when soldering. No possible way to connect them wrong or short circuit them.

The most important change, an HD video camera. New better video coming VERY soon. Tomorrow hopefully!

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

This thread is dead..

Add some new HD Video.
[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YY5m8BphFU[/link]
[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrAuRL-p68g[/link]

Dont mind the F Bomb...

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

I think my ESC went thermo for two reasons.

1) My water tubing may be bent a little to tight.
2) The prop shaft is pretty snug in the stinger- think I need to polish it down a bit.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Update...

The need for speed continues.

With that being said I finally did what I was putting off for so long...



I ripped everything except the servo/radio/stuffing tube mount out. I then ground down all the epoxy/carbon fiber (as the CF went up the wood sides) nice and smooth. I then filled in the voids with small pieces of CF. Then a final new layer of CF over all of it. I bought some new Epoxy and man it came out nice!

So I now have two layers of CF in the hull. Bulletproof... sorta... lol

Now to get my wire drive back and new motor mount installed.

I have the TFL branded water cooled mount. It sits much higher than the built in mount did- so I must mount the motor forward by a decent amount.

nothinbetr2do

nice [8D]

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Getting back to this now that I have a drive shaft to work with. Needed a longer wire so had to get it refurbished.

Is anyone still messing around with these boats?

Looking at the previous pictures/posts it appears we are running them at 60/40 balance point. I was wondering what opinions are on this. I know I was running mine about 50/50. I think Im gonna shoot for 70/30 and let my batteries be the ballast on the sides.

More pics to come.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

There she is, reassembled with the 380XL motor. I got a coupler on order for the .062" wire. I ordered a .078" coupler for some reason...

So tomorrow is the day.

Before in my previous setups she ran real wet. COG was pretty much 50/50. Now she is set up 30/70...

Im trying a different prop also- the previous props are twisted off. I have a 3 blade on the way- maybe it will be here in time.

Eagle Tree data to come.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

There is the final (as of now) product.

KD 36-60 3000 KV
2200 MaH Flightmax 30C
120A Turborix ESC
UBEC
PiStix
.062" wire drive, 4mm shaft

I tried it tonight on X437 prop and a K42. K42 is where its at! 37 MPH not to shabby for a 25" boat. I want faster!!!

Graphs:
Speed


Amps


Watts

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

The fourth and final transformation of my Prince 25". This is the big one boys!

Leopard 4074 2000 KV
Hobbywing 150A ESC
5000 mAH 4S x 2 batts
X440/3 blade by Blackcat26 (This is one F'ing sharp prop!)

Im aiming to send this boat into orbit. I would like to at least come close to 50 MPH with it.

I need to get the batteries on order here soon.

pompebled

Nice work Bass!

I noticed in your previous set-up that you cooled the motor first and the ESC last, I'd reverse that in the current set-up, as the motor heats up the water substantually more than the ESC, which will receive lukewarm water in a worst case scenario if it came from the motor... (don't know how hot your summers are, but overhere we prop down when it's too hot to keep the motor and ESC cooled sufficiently)

If the tubing on the heatsink works sufficiently, keep it, a new cooler where the water flows through the aluminum block is more efficient, so that's an option to keep in mind.
If you do change that, make the effort to flatten the fets, so all make contact with the heatsink.

Make sure to turn the waterjacket on the motor so the exit is on top, to avoid having no water in the top part of the jacket.

Keep the video's coming!

Regards, Jan.

Basstronics

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the advice. I will make the changes on the can cooler orientation as noted.

The ESC I purchased as shown from another member on OSE. I have a 180 Turnigy I can swap in but I need to change out the bullets to do so. Go figure I dont have enough heat shrink...

LENYLOW

looking good, you should be able to hit 50mph with that set up, mine hit 49.8 the last time i ran it.
The final run i did was even faster but she went airbourne and landed upsidown ripping the hatch off.
The gps was soaked and had gone off so i never got a reading.
Its ready to go again now, i am also installing the turnigy 180amp esc in this boat.

Steve441

Nice Goin' Guys - Ice is still thick on the lake here - Can't wait till summer! Steve

losifiend

Never even noticed this thread, but I picked up one of these about a month ago. I bought the bare hull with upgraded hardware from a member of OSE for $125, I think. First run was with a Castle 3424 1800kv outrunner on 4S and a grim 42x55 prop. Went well but I wanted more speed so I installed a Turnigy gold can 3656 2600kv and it was insane even with an x438. I ran both motors with an Aquastar 90A ESC after iving the ESc out of my Miss Geico a try. The Turnigy had more punch. It was so crazy that I sank the whole boat. It was completely gone under water for about an hour until a lifeguard at the lake lent me a small boat anchor with which I dredged the area where it last was seen and I eventually pulled it out. I lost the canopy though and Jan at Kintec is getting me a knew one later this month.

Anyways, here are some pictures of before it sank other than having the Turnigy gold can motor, not the outrunner pictured. Now it sits shelfed until the lid comes in[:'(]




And this is after pulling out from under 20 feet of water. Luckily it went down about 15 feet away from the end of the dock. The ESC and LiPos were trash after retrieval.


Some video. First with the outrunner. Then with the 2600 both on 4S.
[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWPIDWCEp7U[/link]
[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8q08yfqFhTs[/link]

LENYLOW

yeh that happend to me to, i managed to save the esc though by sticking it in the airing cupboard for a week, did you loose the hatch?

losifiend

Yup! The boat must of hit a turtle or, something, because I was driving it back to shore towards me when it just jumped out of the water with the nose in the air and something must of come lose inside, popped the lid loose though it was taped, and down she went faster than I could react. I had just rebuilt it the night before and wound up working on it till past midnight. I was tired and forgot to put the strips of pool noodle back in.[:@] Jan at Kintec told me he should have a new hatch for me by the end of the month. I'm putting in hatch locks in this time as well as a dowell in the front to keep it from lifting up.