senrak

Don't neglect that re-inforcment. It will break without it. I don't know why BUSA doesn't include it on the plans.
DW

KDBrown

My Feedback: (1)

Senrak, I am also plannng to reinforce the elevator. I like your piano wire idea. What method did you use to attach the wire? Epoxy, wrap, etc.? I am planning to use one (1) Hitech HS-625MGservo for the elevator. Any pictures of your reinforcement?
Thanks!
Kevin

senrak

Kevin,
I put a v-grove in the leading edge of the dowel to hold the wire I glued hard balsa into the inboard corner of the elevator halves and drilled holes for the bent legs of the .093 wire. I used epoxy to weld everything together into a solid unit. I would post pictures, but the work has all disappeared under covering and paint. A picture would be worth a lot of words right now.
DW

I'll answer any question the best I can.

KDBrown

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, Iknow just what you described. Will do the same.

gervaisd

Good day all!

My last project was the Sig Piper Cub 1/5th scale. Their procedure for the elevator is well done and very strong. Hope it could help.

Daniel

CanDo

I think BUSA got it right with the elevator joiner. For what it's worth, I've been flying my Pup for ~5 years now with no elevator failures. If you fly this plane like a scale WWI war bird, you won't have any problems.
I will caution you about one thing though. If you use push rods for the elevator and rudder, make sure you support them about every 5 or 6 inches. If you don't, they will vibrate and look like banjo strings. Ask me how I know!

senrak

How do you know?

3136

OK how do you know?

3136

I just tried to order a barnstormer pilot from here http://www.hppilots.com/main/page_pr...ull_body_.html
But the store said his supplier doesn't do those mouldings anymore. Pooh[]

Any suggestions for a full body pilot?

Regards Mark

Tx_RcFlyer

My Feedback: (7)

I used this guy in my pup. And the price was even better!

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...ub-arf-HAN4566

DougB1

My Feedback: (11)

I have the BUSA Pup and used the G-26 ( mag. ) and still had to add a little weight and it has more than enough power to pull the Pup. I fly about 1/2 throttle and if I want to do a loop I only have to go to 3/4 throttle, wide open is WAY to fast and just doesn't look or sound scale. It is a blast to fly, lands very smoothly, and will float a long way if power is lost ( gotta remember to set the timer LOL )
Doug
1/3 BUSA Fokker DVII
1/4 BUSA Sopwith Pup
1/4 SR Eindecker
GreatPlanes Ele. Spad

Muskoka dad

My Feedback: (5)

WOW WE MADE THE HOME PAGE, A FIRST FOR THIS BUILD[X(]

DougB1

My Feedback: (11)

Post some pictures as you go along if possible, like to see work in progress. [sm=wink_smile.gif]

CanDo

3136, "How do I know?"
When I looked down into the cockpit while the engine was running, I noticed the elevator and rudder push rods were vibrating like crazy. I added horizontal supports where the fuse already had vertical supports. Then I slit some tubing lengthwise, put it over the push rods, and glued the tubing to the horizontal supports. Note, I did this mod AFTER the fuse was covered, I recommend doing it before!
BTW, I have an old US25 (25cc engine) with a 18x6 prop, and it has plenty of power at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle.

jameighan

Members,
This is just a general post in reference to the 1/4 scale Balsa USA Sopwith PUP. Many of my fellow club members have been flying the 1/4 scale PUP for the last 10 years or so.

I decided to increase the size of the PUP from 25% scale to 28% scale which yields a wingspan of 86 inches with 2500 sq inches. It required a cowl diameter of 10 inches due to the size of an ENYA VT-240 engine swinging a Classic 20-8 prop. I also pushed the firewall out another 2 inches to accomadate 2 fuel tanks and batteries for airborn gear and keep-alive for the glow driver. What got me started was I found 10" aluminum stock pots on sale at a local Wal Mart and that was a perfect fit for the Enya VT-240. The 9 inch cowl utilized on the 1/4 scale pup was a tad too small.

My son also built the 28% Sopwith PUP and he powered his with a Brisson 2.4 swinging a 20" prop. I had many photos of both of these planes and lost them due to a system crash. I should have backed them up. Such is life.

Both of these PUP's are not true scale, but the workmanship was good and when in the air they handle well even in moderate wind. My PUP weight was 24 pounds and my son's was about 21 pounds.

Many members in our club are building and flying WWI models and it's fun to fly the course with 7 or 8 in the air at the same time. It's like watching real gray-scale WWI dogfight footage, but this time it's in color.

Visit our club at www.mcrcs.com and check out the WWI videos.

Jim Meighan

FireBee

My Feedback: (34)

Nice video and a Halberstad. See www.militaryaviationmuseum.org as they fly a restored full scale. Our club is also doing a lot of WW-1!


As to Pup, My neighbor finished his and I did the maiden. What a blast. Particulars are: Zenoah g-26, Xoar 18-6, Dubro wheels and solortex olive drab. Scale flight is less than 1/2 throttle, add power to do a loop. CG per the plans. Make sure to use rudder in the turns. I set up a mix on a switch for 18% rudder with the ailerons to help make it easier. Flip off for loops, take off, landing.

Check out Warbirds over Delaware, couple years ago they set a record of 34 warbirds at half time show. This past year 26. Our club had 6 participate, two were Pups. It was like flying bumble bees everywhere. Best fun in years.

3136

No offence mate but that pilot looks like a tranny with a bad spray tan, not that there is anything wrong with that
I don't mind spending $50-$100, surely there must be some decent pilots available,
there are heaps of bust ones but I can't find a decent full body pilot.

Regards Mark

Zor

Just an idea . . . .
Have a look in a toy store at some boy friends of Barbie the Mattel girl.

Perhaps Barbie herself could fly your airplane .

Zor

Tx_RcFlyer

My Feedback: (7)

No offence taken. We're all entitled to our own opinions.

Muskoka dad

My Feedback: (5)

HEY DOUGB1   I HAVE LOTS OF PICS, BUT CANT GET THEM OF THE CAMERA ONTO THE SITE.  I EVEN HAD MY WIFE HELP AS SHE IS

KDBrown

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Ted,

In the process of mounting my DLE30 in the Pup. What size standoffs did you use? Or did you do something else? The standard 60mm standoffs are definitely too long, and I see online that there are 30mm standoffs available. I am also plannng to cut a hole in the firewall for carb clearance. Are your mixture screws still located on the front side of the firewall, or do you get to them on the back side?

Thanks,
Kevin

DougB1

My Feedback: (11)

Well keep trying ,we'll be right here. [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Tx_RcFlyer

My Feedback: (7)

Kevin,

I custom made my standoffs. Not sure on the length. My mixture screws are on the backside of the firewall. A real PITA! I'm looking for parts to convert to a side carb as I have recently had carb issues and It is not user friendly to get to everything with my current setup. If I had to do it over, I would not worry about getting a more scale look and live with the extra length on the nose just to make maintenance easier.

5blue

Anyone have photos of pull pull elevator configuration for there Pup - really don;t want to use a push rod - for the elevators and would like to have individual elevator halfs - just for fun along with pull pull for rudder

KDBrown

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Ted,

I was looking at the engine, cowl, etc., and was also wondering if it is worth recessing the engine for a more scale look. I would sure like to. Perhaps installing a couple of access holes on the side so that I can get to the mixture screws. Maybe somehow cover these with the scale access cover plate. May need only one hole since the screws are side by side. I think the choke and throttle connections will be ok. I may order the 30mm standoffs and give it a shot. This will set the engine back 1 3/16" What do you think?

Kevin