cchariandy

Will leaking Pushrod o-rings result in fuel in the valve area? I had very little fuel there on the other motor.

Colin

petec

My Feedback: (58)

It shouldn't, the o-rings are there to hold in the crankcase pressure. If the o-rings pop out a bit the pressure isn't stable and you will suck air.

cchariandy

I found most of the bolts around the engine not as tight as they should be...back plate and cam gear cover. Was I supposed to use locktite after the CDI conversion or is that normal for a new engine? Even the saprk plug was not quite snug.

Additionally, after reading throught many other posts including Ivans who runs the same set up, 7700 RPM is actually the expected peak and I was flying at 7600...so right at the peak. I'm starting to think I was just too lean and maybe the lose bolts added some air.

I'll test it again tonight at a richer setting.

Thanks for the tips thus far.

Colin.

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Colin,

It doesn't take much air to make a big change. I have seen closer to 8000 on that prop and actually one of my engines will turn it close to 8100 when broken in. I've used loctite before, but didn't make much difference. I've just learned to fly it 20-30 flights, then pull it, and retighten everything and it stays tight forever after that. I don't know why this is, but it does. Also, if the engine is sucking a lot of air, it wont be able to unload in the air. I bet the flying RPM is several hundred higher than we are seeing on the ground. Hopefully tightening things up will make a big difference.

Arch

shepga

Colin

I'm a newbie to the YS170 (non cdi) but I can I see some similarities in our experiences. In my case I run 30% heli regular oil and 18.1X10 APC , 20oz tetra tank. Up to 25 flights I couldn't get much more than 8 1/2 minute flights the performance was no better than my OS160. Switched to 18.1x11 and started to lean the HS. At 50 flts I was at 1 1/4 turns HS and pump set flush getting 7600-7800 rpm but going thru glow plugs like crazy. I set the HS to 1 3/4 and got 7500 rpm and stopped killing glow plugs my fuel economy increased to 9 mins 40 sec. At 75 flts I went to a contest. When my engine wouldn't start during practice a number of experienced D6 pilots offered their assistance. They felt the engine was too lean and richened the HS to what ended up being 2 turns. We measured the rpm it was still 7500. This got me thru the contest but I suffererd greatly on the 1/2 square up w/2 of 4. No power at the top. From 75 flights to 100 flights the situatuion got worse but I had also developed a leak in the muffler o-ring. At 100 flights I changed the o-ring leaned the HS back to 1 1/4, ordered up some some nice hot Texas weather 95F I don't know what rpm I'm getting but the motor is now living up to my expectations. I can do the half square with little over 1/2 throttle. So far I've flown in 95F degree temps 3 days in a row and the glow plug is holding up. I plan to go out again today (99F) I probably won't even measure the rpm, it doesn't matter, what ever it is it is. The engine is running great oh yeah I'm getting 10 min 30 sec on the 20 oz tank.

Glen

riot3d

The key word is "snug", do not loctite those bolts. Otherwise, you may strip the bolt head when you try to loosen them. Also, always use cross pattern when tightening.

BTW, have you ever sand the valve cover lightly? Sometimes, there are high spots on the cover that can cause leaking. If not, wet sand it with 400 grit sand paper gently on a smooth surface.

Adrian

cchariandy

I forgot the sanding of the valve cover.

MTK

Archie,

I think you are running Ed's IBEC in your YS CDI. If you run a 2 cell lipo in your airborne, can you tell me how low you run the battery before you call it a day?

I stop flying when the Lipo gets to 7.5 volts using a 2S2P 1780 mah Radical RC battery (different engine set-up than YS CDI as you know). That's about 80 minutes of flying to get the battery to 7.5 V (4, 20 min flights). Where do folks tend to stop flying for the day on your set-ups that use IBECs?

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Matt,

You are right, I'm running Ed's IBEC's and couldn't be happier with it. I usually stop flying at around 7.5 under load also, however on my old Li-Ion they always said the no fly voltage was 6.9 although I never went that low. I have dual 900mah LiPo packs that I run, and I can comfortably get 4 flights in one day and only put about 400-450 back in each pack, so I'm using around 200-225mah per flight (10 minutes of flying), this includes the ignition, RX, and servos..

Arch

cchariandy

I ran the engine this morning and am happy to report that all power has been recovered. I'm back out to 1 1/4 ( from just over 1) at the HS and maybe 1/8 out from flush on the pump. At this setting the power is as expected but there is an occassional "miss" while at high power (just a little over 1/2 throttle).

8 min flights (P or F) use close to 15oz of fuel.

I might try leaning the pump a little more.

Colin.

MTK

Okay so ours are roughly equivalent set-ups in regard to battery capacity. You use two 900s in parallel and I use one 1780 straight up. I don't check mine under load usually....it is 7.5 V unloaded (and around 7.2 loaded with 1 ohm load the couple times I did check it loaded). I may be drawing more out of the battery than I should be.

thanks for the input

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Matt,

I could fly longer and do so safely. I just have gotten in the habit of not flying more than 4 flights in a single practice session. My brain tends to shut down after that. As I said, I'm not even using half the capacity, so I could easily go lower.

Arch

cchariandy

I forgot to add that my Rx current consumption is down to around 650mAhrs for 32 mins of flying. This was up around 1100 with the standard 170. Although it dropped a little when I went to the CDI, a big change occured when I replaced my 320 flight old Aileron servos with new ones.

So I think it's safe to say that your Rx consumption is a variable of servo pot condition.

rene69

I have just started to fly with only 1 1500Ma NiMH. I manufactured a "Y" conector to be able to plug both switches to the battery. After 2 11 minute flights (2 times intermediate) it takes about 680 Ma to recharge. I done 3 11 minutes flights and takes about 980 Ma, so now I only do 2 flights and recharge from my field box battery.
Also my 11' flight uses about 9-10 oz out of my 16 oz. tank.
Hope that this helps.

Rene

underwood1

hi guys,
just doing few rpm checks with different fuels and props , what is every one getting with the 19 x 11 apc 30%nitro 22%oil ......??.. just being nosey really!!.

cheers
steve

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Steve,

7500-7700 are numbers that I have heard. Mine personally turns it at 7650.

Arch

underwood1

arch,
same as yourself my friend , thank you for sharing your info.

regards
steve

yepe

Arch,

Whats your battery setup on your CDI and servos. Are you using regulator? thanks

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Yepe,

I'm running dual 900mah LiPo packs through Tech Aero Dual regulators into the receiver. Then out of the receiver I'm running one of the Tech Aero IBEC units that goes from the receiver to the ignition. This allows me to control whether the ignition is on or off from the TX. Great setup.

I've now been playing some with props and have been very happy with the new 19.5X11.5PN prop from APC. I also tried the 20.5X10.5PN, but it was too slow for my tastes with my Black Magic which is a draggy airframe to start with.

Arch

yepe

thanks

atul

Pereira: talking about dual batteries, I wanted to understand how this setup works on the Futaba 7008 receiver (the one that ships with the 18MZ). From other (more recent) posts, I notice you've moved to the 18MZ and I just got one of those as well.

The 18MZ seems to have a total of 9 'slots' for servo-connections, with 1-6 for servo connections, 7 for battery and 8 for an SBus extension. There's a 'flat' slot as well (like in the JR 921). Assuming one uses channels 1-6 for the usual connections (Aileron, elevator, throttle, rudder, elevator2, Aileron2), can one do the following

use slots 7 and 8 for the dual batteries, and
use slot 9 to extract power for the 170M ignition module

I'm assuming that with the dual battery setup, you take the ignition power from the 7008 receiver and do not have a separate battery for the ignition.

Thanks. I'm looking forward to trying out the 18MZ, though I must admit that the JR 12X has been quite flawless as well. Wish my flying were a little better though :-).

Atul

apereira

Hello Atul,

I do not take the CDI power form the receiver, I have a Shullman regulator on the CDI right now, on my new Axiome + I will be installing the Emcotec reg/SW, I have all here at home but had no time to put it together yet.

I think you can take power of any servo connector, but I have not tried that, remember if you need more connections you can always use a Y harness, but it should not be necessary.

I moved from the 12X to the 18MZ, and I am still regretting not changing to Futaba sooner, DSM2 worked flawlessly for years for me in several airplanes, but it is the programming that makes the difference.

Best regards

Alejandro P.

atul

Alejandro,

Thanks for your reply. I had not thought of the Y-harness approach. I guess an s-Bus connector will work too. I've been using two fairly large batteries (1500 MAH Duralite packs) for the receiver and extracting the ignition power from the receiver direct.

About the Futaba programming - I've still got to try it out. I'm a novice at setting up and using the advanced programming (such as the stick-controlled snaps) so I may need more help there!

Atul

apereira

No problem, just ask and do not use the built in snap function if you do not want to use switches.

Alejandro