ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I got a call from a modeler building my cowl flap system, and he asked the length of the stand-offs for the plywood rings to the firewall. They are 23/32. Now keep in mind that this is using 3/16" thick ply for both rings. If you use 1/4" on them, then you need to make the corresponding adjustment in the depth of the stand-offs, so the cowl will fit nicely.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Also, note the additional holes I have drilled in the rings. The two large ones are for the exhaust pipes, the smaller ones are for additional air flow. This is so, with the Moki, you can close the flaps a few more degrees in flight. With these holes, and the baffling, you should be able to fly with the flaps set about where the stock cowl is molded to. On the ground, you will want them all the way open, which gives you much better air flow than the stock cowl.

I drill these holes with a forstner bit in my bench top drill press before the flaps are glued on.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Wing light progress. Just need to screw the tip lenses on. The bezels are made from aluminum foil. They just need the fasteners embossed into them.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

With the power to them. They are set up so you can use any batteries you want from 4.8 to 7.4V.

JSZ

My Feedback: (73)

Looks great, nice work!

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Wing mount added to the outer panel of the plug-in wings.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

This is rare in our experience with CARF. The right and left wings were not built the same. The ribs are off on the right wing. This made it necessary to enlarge the hole for the push rod to the flaps in the right panel.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

The infamous aileron servos. Use the very best servos you can get your hands on, and aluminum servo arms with a compression lock for the spline. They need to have extreme holding power, and you don't want to have to take them out very often.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Another shot of the lights on the starboard wing.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

We are in the process of making the molds for the gun fairings. We will be making these fairings available separately, and will include them in the complete gun kit. Amusingly, CARF does not even help you locate these ports.

vfrank59

WhooHooo. I am standing by for a set.
vern

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I still can't understand why CARF did not even mark them on the wings. A "museum scale" war bird?

Graeme had a beautiful set, but you can't get them. It is some work because you need a right and a left set, but it just needs to be done. We will do it. Once the plug is made, vac u-forming is easy. They will be molded out of styrene like cockpit parts.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Thanks buddy.

MRadu

Hello Gary,
I'm ready to order your lighting system. If not ready with guns. I'm ready for all wing lights minus the tips. I also need the blue fuselage on top light. Can you make a special order?

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

For those who have purchased the wing tip set, here is what you will receive.

1. right and left LED assemblies with currant limiters to prevent over volt burnouts
2. screws for the tip lenses
3. (3) tip lenses (in case you miss cut one)
4. aluminum foil to line the inside of your plywood tip cut outs (made by the builder because each one mat be slightly different depending on the cut out)

vfrank59

Gary,
I must have missed the info , on how to order the lighting set. Can you put that info out? I want to deck mine out also.
Thanks,
vErn

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Yes in deed. I'll put it together and PM you. Do you want the fuselage wire harness with the switch / battery devise, as well?

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I am going to post an ad in the classified section to make it easy, now that we have the lights all worked out. I'll do that this evening yet. I'll post a link in here when done.

Thanks for your support.

MRadu

Yes please,

This is so great. They are show stoppers and the best I have seen. Great work to you both.

Thank you.

vfrank59

yep, wire harness with the switch / battery devise. The painless way for me.
thanks,
vern

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Here is a link to the ad I posted.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/ite...231&electric=0

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Thank you. The thing is, they are custom to the Corsair, and not just generic lighting. Some nav lights like the wing tip and tail lights will be very similar on other WWII fighters. We will do systems for other planes as we have time to do the research develop them.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

I didnt catch this info but are you offering a scale wheel detail set for the brakes on the mains?

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

That detail was made for us by a friend. We have no plans at this time to offer it ourselves.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I have a couple modelers in the process of adding the cowl flaps to their models. Some more info on the cowl flap rings.

Bruce, the front ring diameter will be 12 9/16". This will be ever so slightly large, so you can fine tune it to your cowl, after you have cut the cowl flaps off. It is easier to fit it after the cowl flaps are cut off, because you can easily see where it fits. The back of the cowl, less the flaps will be flush with the back of this ring. This forms a guide for the mounting of the cowl, and supports it nicely when screwed in place. This means that you can pour epoxy mixed with Steel Powder in the ring around the front of the cowl with complete confidence it will stay firmly in place with the extra ballast right where you want it, as far forward as you can get it.

The inside diameter of the front ring is 8 1/4".

Now, I think Bruce had what I think is a good idea. Before you cut the center out of the front ring, you have a great tool to help you locate the engine. Subtract 1" from the length of each stand-off (the distance that the front of the cowl ring is from the front of the firewall that the engine will be mounted to. Now use these shortened stand-offs (this will set the proper thrust angles) and place your engine on the cowl ring, with the cowl over it (you will need to have it on the edge of your work bench so the two fixed flaps can hang over the edge. Center your engine in the cowl orienting it for the exhaust ports, and mark it for the bolts. Now all you need to do is center this plywood plate on the firewall and mark the hols for the engine bolts.