MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I might add I use one LiPo 5000MA battery for both radio and engine ignition with a http://www.tech-aero.net/Home http://www.tech-aero.net/Home
Never have any trouble with this set-up

Valve floater

Going to fly in the A.M. if the weather is good. Before i replaced the engine last month from an SV-50 to a DLE-55 i had a dead stick. I had good height, airspeed and no flaps. Even had the nose down to keep my speed up. But this thing dropped like a brick and i didn`t make the runway. Broke both struts in an early picture on here. Is it possible to dead stick this plane? Looks like everything has to be perfect to make it without damage. The sink rate is so high. Is it true that even full scale Mustang pilots would rather parachute out than deadstick land it.

aghost

My Feedback: (13)

Offhand, I can think of three TF P-51 deadsticks. Two with the gear up had little or no damage. The other with the gear down, tore the gear out. Down was a mistake because the plane was over tall grass, nowhere near a runway. One of the gear up deadsticks was mine. I had enough height and speed to make a 180 back into the wind. The plane actually glided better than I thought it would, but I really kept the nose down during the turn.

Brian

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Yes, my experence is the same as Brian's with three dead sticks and one gear tear-out. That was because when I knew I had the field made I dropped full flaps and was all good untill the flair when it dropped in and took the gear out.
The other two were gear up landings on the grass. I think the plane really glides better with the wheels up....it's when you open up that big hole in the bottom of the wing.

Good luck if you fly today. Might have to richen up the high side on that new DLE 55. We do around here.

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

In 7 years with mine I have made four dead sticks. All with the gear up. no damage.

I once had to land mine with the gear up while the engine was at about 1/3 thottle. The servo arm broke and at the time I had no way of killing the engine with the TX. I run a racing prop and at 1/3 thottle she's still fast.

To make matters worst it was the last flight of the day and the batts (2000mah NiMH) have enough for a good flight with extra if needed. Also I run a 32 oz tank, so I carry plenty of fuel. Well at 1/3 thottle it will run a long time with what was left after the arm broke 5 minutes into the flight.

She was doing around 50 to 60 mph. and with the racing prop it doesn't pull very good at that speed so I had to fly around very carefully .

After almost an hour in the air I decided to land. I was worried about my batteries going down and my plane flying away. Luckly I had lots of room on my aproach. With a loooong setup she belly landed in the middle of the runway breaking the prop and ripped off the plug cap and litte damage to the fuse bottom at the fire wall. I would estimate she was flying about 45 to 50 when she landed.

That was at Warbird over Delaware 07. The first time I have ever been tired of flying my Mustang.

BTW She still had over a 6 ozs of fuel left. (another 30 minutes maybe)

That was also the last time I ever flew any of my planes without somekind of kill switch.[8D]

Kelly

Valve floater

Thanks for all the advice. It worked well today. Flew 4 times, and landings were great. I went form stalling out last week to almost too hot today. Full flaps, under mid throttle. Flew it to the ground. When the mains touched, it stuck to the ground like glue,then i chopped the throttle. Some of the guys said i was coming in too hot but i didn`t want to stall. On the last flight, i was a little too hot and by the time i touched down i ran in some deep grass off the runway and almost nosed. Pulled back on the elev. and saved it. Taxied it back with no damage. Gotta find that not too hot but not stall point. Positive day to work from and learn. At least i don`t have to go home and work on it today! I have bombs on each wing that i drop on every flight. I had already richened it up. Have about 15 flights on the new DLE-55 now. I leaned it out today and the power was super. I made some WOT low passes that made the club members all want to go out and buy warbirds. Again, thanks all.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Good to hear that things went well. By useing full flaps it keeps you from "balloning" if the speed get crazy. It kills all lift next to the grounds if she tries to hop-up.

Another suggestion for you....You need to get a couple hundred feet in the air and go down wind...turn into the wind and drop half flaps and with reduced power fly the length of the runway. Now do the same thing with full flaps and use what power you need to maintain LEVEL fight the length of the runway. Even let it get a little mushy and add enought power to keep it going. This is the amount you will use when landing. Of course you will have ground effect down close...It works!
You need to do all this when no body is around to show off too.

mikmerl

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Just a couple pictures of my second (spare) Mustang and "Fuzzy" the cat checking for a mouse.
I don't have the name "Angel Baby" on the side yet.
For those of you old enough that was a popular song title in the fifties by Rosie & the Orginals.

fujiman

My Feedback: (133)

VERY NICE PLANE AND GREAT PICS!!!!!!!! Can't wait to get my ARC ''p-51'' reno unlimited racer ''Janie's Gun'' done.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks fujiman.
The "cat" is a lot of help????Right!

Here is a couple of pictures on how I mount my gas fill/defuel fitting on my last 51's.
Not going to be the way a real scale guy wants it but it don't look too bad if you mix it in the black squares.
I cut the scale exhaust at half way and remove to exhaust pipes to fit this in.
So far useing this I haven't had a problems leaking like some glow one's tend to do with time.
I use to fill and defuel everything under the plane but got tired of stinky gas on my hand.

Leroy Gardner

MX420 looks like you have a Corvett engine in it, there is a guy that did that in a 2/3rd's mustang and it flew great. Fuel fill works great, use it on mine but it's under the upper forward cowl deck.

Valve floater

Hey guys! Just got my 22-10 WWII Xoar prop in from Valley View. Dle-55 was whining with a high RPM with the 22-8.Turning about 7400-7500 on the ground. Should i re-adjust mixtures? What should i expect besides faster flight speed of course? Run hotter at WOT? Takeoff landing etc.? thanks

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I think that RPM is about right for a 22-8. I run all 22-10's on my DA50's. So a 22-12 is what a lot of people use.
I can tell you that all the members in my club have to richen the high end up on their DLE's or they tend to quit on a climb later in the flight.
I know they run darn good out of the box.....but, I would play with the high end before flight. The low end needle seem good as is. We are 2000'msl here.

See what other members think.

Valve floater

Sorry MX. It`s a 22-10. How do you like the 22-10 Xoar?

Mikecam

I've tried Xoar beechwood 22x8, 22x10, 21x10. The 21x10 runs the best for me and runs 112 mph straight and level, certainly fast enough, nice big loops as well. 20 lbs plane probably helps as well. Two ways to land, on the mains and run out or 3 point. I can do both when calm but if windy I find the mains first easier. If your bouncing the landing odds are your landing speed is in between the two alternatives, too fast for a 3 point and not fast enough for a mains first landing. She is a tame *****cat who can still wick it up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YArOR...WbPk4_hkTQ-OqQ

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

Wow, what a thread.  I recently got my stang and am i glad to find you guys.  Yes, its the tf 1/5 giant.  

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I have used the TF black horns on all four of my 51's the last ten years and never had a problem. TF has good plywood in the right spot along with the two lengths of metal screws to attach then. The longer screw go to the thicker foreward part of the control surface.
Not very pretty but work good. Also use the hinges without any problems.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

good to know. now i can go ahead and install them. thanks

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

Ya, stick the 4-40 wire control rods through the plastic tubes....line up the horns....at the right angle. I drilled a 1/16 hole through two holes to hold it and installed the two screws and then drilled the last two holes.
Tape the control surface in nutural.
Inside the fuse, position the servo arms to line up with the rods. Screw the servos in place. I use the standard length servo arms except on the rudder I use a little longer arm.
I have a wire cutter that has a mechanical advantage so it snips the wires off easy just past the servo quick links ....so I can solder them on both sides.
Have fun

bipeflr

My Feedback: (8)

I have a chance to buy the TF P51 that a clubmember as for sale. He bought it in 2011, has completed it but never flown. I found this forum and have been reading for 2 days now and am only up to 2008. I have been trying to find if the weak landing gear area and wrong sheerwebing has been corrected by Top Flite .If anyone would like to comment
please let me know. I dont want to kill someone making high speed passes and loose a wing. (hard to look kool) Thanks, I have really enjoyed reading all the great input you guys have supplied. Jim

golfandfly

My Feedback: (99)

Do you advise EXPO when flying,or landing this plane? if so , how much do you use? Thank's, Steve

spitfire66

I had the same question about the landing gear area with the shear webbing. I think it was around 2012 when they started to correct the issue, but I would check to make sure. Start around page 110 or search shear webbing.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

My thoughts on above questions......
I have never seen in the last 6-7 years I have been flying these TF P-51's of anybody shredding a wing in flight. I think they are darn strong. Only when I try flying through a tree. But these were all powered with 50-55 CC motors.
I am old school on the expo...only a little on the ailrons and smaller amount on the elevator. But I use the shorter servo arms that go full 100% throw to give the right amount of surface throw.

Landing gear mounts.....There is more info about the TF P-51 on the Warbird forums.... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1158439/tm.htm
There you will find more info about the gear mountings.
Yes you can tear the whole wing apart to beef it up but I and others in our club have found if you just brace the very front of the hardwood mounts that will solve most less then perfect landings. I think I have pictures on the "Misshap P-51 Page" forums on how to do this. The problem is the way it is now you start to weaken or tear lose the inside hardwood mounting block and if you don't see that...... the next so-so landing takes it all out. A simple fix.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I found these pictures of beefing up the front mounts.
Plus I drill out the Robarts for bigger wood screws.
Something you can do even if the plane is already built.