NGH 38CC 4 stroke
#304
Thread Starter
RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke
6,9kg or 15.2 lbs
I bet putting a 18x8 prop instead of the 18/10 would give it better vertical.......just did not want to bother reseting the needles today...just wanted to fly
It is very economical, it sips fuel
I bet putting a 18x8 prop instead of the 18/10 would give it better vertical.......just did not want to bother reseting the needles today...just wanted to fly
It is very economical, it sips fuel
#305
RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke
Great report.Why dont you prefer tarmac for take off instead of grass?Im not sure prop changes will need carb. readjustment.I also agree with you 18-8
may give better performance.
may give better performance.
#306
Thread Starter
RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke
The tarmac is only 50 meters.......and with the size of this plane, it does not realy matter if it takes off from grass or the tarmac.
The small 40 size planes like the tarmac
The small 40 size planes like the tarmac
#307
RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke
here is maiden with my ngh in the 1/5 black horse fieseler storch. The storch is 2.40 out in the video. Used a bambula 18x8 got 7300rpm on ground.
The plane was nose heavy, I took off som lead later and it was much better.
The engine runs very well. but is hard to start. it kicks back when i`m flipping it.
I think a 20x8 will fit this plane better. And it will be scale size for the plane
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtn_oOLZ39I&feature=share&list=UUx6JVw9uYTQldoQpiBrF5MQ[/youtube]
The plane was nose heavy, I took off som lead later and it was much better.
The engine runs very well. but is hard to start. it kicks back when i`m flipping it.
I think a 20x8 will fit this plane better. And it will be scale size for the plane
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtn_oOLZ39I&feature=share&list=UUx6JVw9uYTQldoQpiBrF5MQ[/youtube]
#309
Thread Starter
RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke
Congrats on the maiden
I moved my timing the closest to 28 degrees, and mine does not kick back when starting.
If you lean the low speed needle a bit too much, it will become difficult to start, even with the choke on.
Mine likes to start very wet. My easiest starts are when you poor fuel directly into the carb
I moved my timing the closest to 28 degrees, and mine does not kick back when starting.
If you lean the low speed needle a bit too much, it will become difficult to start, even with the choke on.
Mine likes to start very wet. My easiest starts are when you poor fuel directly into the carb
#310
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RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke
although mine does start well by hand I use my Align starter on it and it fires right up really easliy, as the engine has a fair amount of rotating mass, if you rotate the prop all the way clock wise then hit it with the starter it spins over fast and starts every time.
I'm sure you are doing this but ensure that your prop is set an an appropriate position when you are ready to flip the prop to hand start it, use a glove and flick it all the way through compression and it shouldnt kick back (too much )
I'm sure you are doing this but ensure that your prop is set an an appropriate position when you are ready to flip the prop to hand start it, use a glove and flick it all the way through compression and it shouldnt kick back (too much )
#312
RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke
ORIGINAL: the pope
I love my align starter . One of the hobbies best kept secretes ! cheers the pope
I love my align starter . One of the hobbies best kept secretes ! cheers the pope
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...s_Engines.html
#313
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RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke
ORIGINAL: Turk1
Howdy ''New Pope''.Try this one.Second best kept secret.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...s_Engines.html
ORIGINAL: the pope
I love my align starter . One of the hobbies best kept secretes ! cheers the pope
I love my align starter . One of the hobbies best kept secretes ! cheers the pope
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...s_Engines.html
#314
RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke
ORIGINAL: stevelesl
It actually looks very Tail heavy in the video ?
It actually looks very Tail heavy in the video ?
It flies mouch bette with less lead in the front. I will put out some more videos soon
think I wil try to move the sensor on the ignition to se if it will be easier to start.
#315
RE: NGH 38CC 4 stroke
Howdy New Pope,I never have a starter. As you know,best starter is friend's starter .(Honestly I can start any engine with hand,at least my own).But my friends have it and they say now spare belt is available.Also at our side of the world "you buy what you pay for" saga is not valid unlike western countries.
#316
My Feedback: (5)
Well I had an ALMOST disaster flying today. The soft aluminum mounting plate broke on all four bolts. That let the engine fall forward into the cowling. Lucky for me that the cowl was strong enough to hold the motor in place well enough to keep the thing from flying off the airframe. I killed the motor and made a dead stick landing. Minor gear damage only. I will have to build a much stronger mounting bracket. I guess the vibration is still there. But the motor still runs well.
#317
Thread Starter
Glad you saved the plane.
I have bought a seagull Nemesis for my engine, and I have beam mounted it on the nylon mounts included in the kit.
Im looking forward to seeing how they absorb vibration.....or not :-)
I have bought a seagull Nemesis for my engine, and I have beam mounted it on the nylon mounts included in the kit.
Im looking forward to seeing how they absorb vibration.....or not :-)
#318
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Although I have used glow engines for many years I am new to petrol engines.
I have an NGH 38 installed inverted. A few hours after running the engine I find that the spark plug is completely filled with oil. Is this normal? Am I right in assuming that the engine will not start in this condition or does fresh fuel clear it?
Removing the plug to clean it involves removing the cowl which is a pain but I can modify the cowl to make this possible. Is constant access to the plug considered essential? I have not modified the cowl so far because I find removing the plug cap quite difficult even when I have full access to the cylinder head. Trying to do it through a hole cut in the cowl does not fill me with optimism. Does anyone have any tips for easy removal of the plug cap?
I can, of course, store the model upside down (spark plug uppermost), though this is less convenient. It would also be difficult to transport it upside down so I would still be concerned about oil collecting in the plug during the journey.
As a petrol novice I would welcome any thoughts/advice. Thanks.
I have an NGH 38 installed inverted. A few hours after running the engine I find that the spark plug is completely filled with oil. Is this normal? Am I right in assuming that the engine will not start in this condition or does fresh fuel clear it?
Removing the plug to clean it involves removing the cowl which is a pain but I can modify the cowl to make this possible. Is constant access to the plug considered essential? I have not modified the cowl so far because I find removing the plug cap quite difficult even when I have full access to the cylinder head. Trying to do it through a hole cut in the cowl does not fill me with optimism. Does anyone have any tips for easy removal of the plug cap?
I can, of course, store the model upside down (spark plug uppermost), though this is less convenient. It would also be difficult to transport it upside down so I would still be concerned about oil collecting in the plug during the journey.
As a petrol novice I would welcome any thoughts/advice. Thanks.
#319
With all inverted engines, if the engine stays inverted when not running for a while, the oil inside the crankcase will slowly migrate to the lowest point inside the engine. So you need to store your plane so that the engine is not inverted. I typically prop my planes up against the wall with the nose pointed down. Other people hang their planes with the engine upright in the garage rafters at home. Laying the plane on its side so that the engine is horizontal works too.
Before you go to start the engine, turn the prop around slowly and feel for a hydraulic lock situation. If you get a hydraulic lock condition, you need to clear it by removing the spark plug and draining the fluid out of the cylinder (probably clean off the plug too). Don't try to force it through in a hydraulic lock condition as it usually bends the connecting rod.
The same thing happens with the radial engines on the full size planes too. They have to check to make sure the bottom cylinders aren't filled with oil from the engine. It doesn't take all that much oil either
Before you go to start the engine, turn the prop around slowly and feel for a hydraulic lock situation. If you get a hydraulic lock condition, you need to clear it by removing the spark plug and draining the fluid out of the cylinder (probably clean off the plug too). Don't try to force it through in a hydraulic lock condition as it usually bends the connecting rod.
The same thing happens with the radial engines on the full size planes too. They have to check to make sure the bottom cylinders aren't filled with oil from the engine. It doesn't take all that much oil either
#321
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Thanks for both your prompt replies.
I know about hydraulic lock from using glow engines. My concern is that this engine seems to accumulate more oil in the cylinder head than I am accustomed to with glow engines. I also imagine that it is more of an issue when it comes to starting. With a well-charged battery, glow plugs can generally cope with a bit of oil.
I am using the normal recommended oil content and the plug was brown when I checked after my last tuning session so I am not too far off the correct settings. However, old glow habits die hard so possibly I still have the carburettor a bit too rich. I’ll keep tinkering.
Before I start hacking access holes in the cowl please can you confirm that I should not need to have continual access to the plug once the engine is correctly tuned, particularly if I store the model nose down or inverted.
Thanks.
I know about hydraulic lock from using glow engines. My concern is that this engine seems to accumulate more oil in the cylinder head than I am accustomed to with glow engines. I also imagine that it is more of an issue when it comes to starting. With a well-charged battery, glow plugs can generally cope with a bit of oil.
I am using the normal recommended oil content and the plug was brown when I checked after my last tuning session so I am not too far off the correct settings. However, old glow habits die hard so possibly I still have the carburettor a bit too rich. I’ll keep tinkering.
Before I start hacking access holes in the cowl please can you confirm that I should not need to have continual access to the plug once the engine is correctly tuned, particularly if I store the model nose down or inverted.
Thanks.
#322
Thread Starter
But have you had trouble starting the engine ?
I bet once the engine starts running, then the plug will be blown "clean"
There is no way you can stop oil from seeping into the cylinder head when the engine is stopped.
I bet once the engine starts running, then the plug will be blown "clean"
There is no way you can stop oil from seeping into the cylinder head when the engine is stopped.
#323
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Starting is temperamental at the best of times so it is difficult to isolate one particular cause. I'll keep tinkering and, hopefully, get the engine to a point where I have confidence in it. From previous posts here it is clear that I am not alone in encountering problems with this engine. Thanks for your replies.
#325
I have the same problem. when the engine is stored for a little time the sparkplug is full of oil. I use a starter to start the engine and it is no problem. But almost impossible to start by hand the first start every day.
ps. I use only 2% of a good synthetic 2stroke oil. And the engine is stil spitting wery much oil out of the went in the crankcase.
ps. I use only 2% of a good synthetic 2stroke oil. And the engine is stil spitting wery much oil out of the went in the crankcase.