F4u5

My Feedback: (81)

Good luck...the more Corsairs, the better.

rcamp

Okay, let me take back what I said about the tires. I took a quick look at a book I have on VF-17, in action late '43 on into '44. During the first tour, late '43, none of the pics seem to have diamond tires. Most look smooth, could be worn tires of either variety, and some are definitely ribbed. The black and white photos from the era aren't the clearest. However, tour 2, early '44, there are definitely diamond tires on -1As. Ribbed and smooth appear also. So I don't know if there was a transition or if it was pretty random depending upon replacement supplies. But I can find both on -1As so in my opinion, you could use either. Now if you're modeling a particular plane during a specific time period, then true fidelity may be difficult to determine.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Ditto,
Great thread.

The Evolution 52 may be too light for this plane needing added weight to balance.

Agree that 5in wheels are the way to go.

Pete

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

D.B. Yes I would like some ideas on a simple gear door system with strut cover, Ive looked in my old files to no avail.. This so you know ware I am coming from, This is my first scale endever in about 30 years , I have a 1/3 weeks that is 15 years old, and before that I tryed a 40 size P51, fair results but not great.. I think I'am a better than average sunday flyer, but by no means close to compitition.. There is more to this story but that all for now, So any suggestion any of you fellows that have built scale will help in the long run. some one said sonic/tronic's has a system but I have not had time to look there eather. Will try to post a pic of my first F4U on final, and gear doors would have realy helped

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

[>:]

D.B. YesI would appreicate any help on a simple set of activating gear doors with strut cover, will try to pos a pic of my first F4U on final , and doors would have really helped.

Thanks Bob t

D Bronk

hello all.I would like to speak to someone who has their 1:5 size retracts(MAINS) and their blue-prints on hand. PLEASE e-mail or P.m. me thank you. DAVE B.

bosssman

My Feedback: (35)

well, since I started this thread, guess it's up to me to post the first pics of some actual building in process. Keep in mind I am very close to finishing up my CMP Hellcat, so I won't be going at "light speed" on the Corsair like some of you builders out there....

As I initially stated, I decided to start with the fuse FIRST - I actually wanted to do the wing first as to me that is the most difficult aspect of the project and I like to get the hard stuff out of the way to keep from "project burn-out". Since I don't have the retracts in hand yet, I have delayed the wing construction as I think this plane deserves actual operational gear doors. At any rate, the photos show a typical build-up per the instruction booklet which I feel is very well written - not perfect, but enough photos and text are given to guide you along. One thing I have noticed already is why the box was so heavy - the WASTE of plywood after you punch out the parts weighs a TON! Also, most of the lite ply pieces popped out fairly easy, whereas the heavier ply needed some "coaxing" and cleanup around the edges. For all interested, I buy the emery boards that women (and I guess some men) use on their fingernails. There are coarse as well as fine grades making them ideal throw away sanding sticks. I used a combination of glues including thick and thin CA (primarily balsa to balsa joints), epoxy and my trusty Titebond in a plastic hyperdermic. Go easy on the gluing - I can see where the weight builds up VERY easily in this plane....

randy

BIOHAZARD

I have to agree on the tire size for scale, however, in reviewing the plans. The main spar will not allow anything larger than a 4.5 size tire unless you do some major surgery on the plans. Check me on this... Anyone want to confirm?

Thanks,

Mike

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

front gear door, why not do as per full size? Hard mount to strut and use a small flap of leather or similar for the hinge covering at the bottom.

Not sure on max tire size, will have to go check the plans

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

[>:] Dave I have a brand new kit and in compairing it to my last one the books seam to be the same, please point out the differances..

Bob T

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

bosssman

pics look good, I don't remember what engine you will use, but I' take a chance and make a suggestion, In the ply group in the tail add lighting holes as big as you can and still allow at least 1/4 edge of hole to edge of part, an oz saved in the tail is about 6 oz in the nose, I am currently duing some testing to see how much I can save and still be structuraly sound

Bob T

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

[]


Pete

On robart struts they rotate..but if you look in some of the threds in scalebuilder.com thre are some neet ways to make the door work.


Bob T

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

[]


Pete

On robart struts they rotate..but if you look in some of the threds in scalebuilder.com thre are some neet ways to make the door work.


Bob T

sagacity

I built this kit in 2002 and knew that it was going out of production at the time. I just bought the re-released kit and it is basically identical. The first one got the US 41 and you can search for my username to get lots of info, and I have digifotos of the whole build. I used litewheels on it and painted the spoke area for great effect.

I just did gear doors on the giant P-51 and the Corsairs are less complex, so should be straightforward. Robart gear is the only way to go here. Stan's Fibertech cowl with the panel lines and scale cowl flaps is another must.


The new one will be the Goodyear F2G with a Thompson Trophy winning scheme. These birds had illustrious non-warbird careers, too! The Top-Flite giant P-47 canopy is a true fit and true to history and scale as well! DA-50 will give it 28-cylinder umpphhh. Not #57! 94. or maybe 92 if I decide not to do the fuse mods.


I digress. Ask away if you have questions about this kit!

Cheers!

greg




greg

sagacity

The entire strut DOES NOT rotate on the Robarts. The upper three inches of the strut are fixed and perfectly adaptable to a hard mount door.


View this. The balsa block is replaced by a robart door collar. Works like a charm.

I must say, though that this plane is a handful with the extra drag from the strut doors. I took 'em off, to tell the truth.

Cheers
!

greg

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

"front gear door, why not do as per full size? Hard mount to strut and use a small flap of leather or similar for the hinge covering at the bottom. "


I rest my case

thanks Greg

cliff600

My Feedback: (3)

Believe it or not this is my very first warbird. I believe in go big or go home. Which I may end up doing the latterafter my first landing. I am putting a G-62 in it, and probably Robart gear, I have ask about Century jets but no one seems to be using. I have a long way to go right now, I am just sheeting the wings. I will take some pics when it begins to look interesting.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi greg. I am new at this scale effort, old in the hobby, I know I my ask some dome questions, but this seems to be one of the best threds to get info, I under stand about the top of the strut being fixed, but how did you attach?? I tried spot ties, door would turn in the wind, I am at least now ready to solder. you help is greatly excepted

Bob T

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Bossman tryed to ansure your PM unable to x/mit, so will post hear.

will try to post pic's by end of this coming week, Don't have a digital camera as yet. so will try to discribe how I did my lighting holes, I have put 1" holes at 11/4 centers starting 5/8 from L/E and on center line between ribs. A rule of thumb is hole edge to edge of part 21/2 times the thicknes of the part. Another thing on my first kit the tail wheel support group was all 1/8 lite ply as yours appear in the pic, any way in my new kit it has all 1/16 a/c ply so no need for lighting holes



BobT

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

[>:]CAUTION CAUTION[:@]

I just ran in to the same problem on the new kit as with my first , the gear mounting beams are about 1/16 to 3/32 t0 close to the lower surface if you in tend to use gear doors so leave the end of the beams alone and cut out the center section befor building this section... cutting them after they are assembled is a pain.

build light and stright

Bob T

BIOHAZARD

Bob,

Not sure I follow what your saying here. Can you please elaborate to satisfy my ignorance.

Thanks,

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi bossman and the rest that are following this thread I finaly got some good pic's of my muffler, the lighting holes and the center section build showing the retract , the bevels required. OK hear goes for the pic's

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

[>:]

For some reason I only got one pic' to upload, will try again

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

[>:]

Still no luck trying again, looks like I can only up load 2 at a time

Bobt

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

[]

I guess I'll just have to do them 1 at a time