discus-fly

Like your solution dogshome for the exhaust.

Still wondering about the possibility of using this engine in a Flair Tiger Moth. Whilst the engine does fit, the supplied exhaust stub would fowl the cowling so need to turn the exhaust through 90 deg in approx 3/4" offset from the cylinder head.

As I don't have any metal work skills other than silver soldering, wondering about making up a right angle turn using the existing exhaust manifold plate and silver soldering a right angle pipe fitting to it. Unsure if silver soldering would be sufficiently strong enough for this job. Any advice on this would be welcome.

Other option is to make an open ended exhaust fume catch box which is not attached to the engine but simply serves to deflect the exhaust fumes out of the cowl.

Third option would be to get an adapter made similar to yours but say twice the thickness to allow the exhaust exit to be at right angles to the manifold.

Also worried any restriction by turning the exhaust though 90 deg would reduce the output power of the engine by creating a back pressure.

PARDAL

(( Still wondering about the possibility of using this engine in a Flair Tiger Moth. Whilst the engine does fit, the supplied exhaust stub would fowl the cowling so need to turn the exhaust through 90 deg in approx 3/4" offset from the cylinder head. ))
I used to make my own mufflers / pipes with steel, copper or bras, tubes or sheets. I used a solder offen used for plumbering called here 'foscope' that is a low fusion temp and low silver content.
If you can use silver solder, better yet. My mufflers never cracked.
I suggest some lyke the dwg att.
Measurements and material to meet Your needs and avaiability.
Good hunting.

SrTelemaster150

By far the best mod yet. It opens up many choices in OEM & aftermarket options.

PARDAL

" Still wondering about the possibility of using this engine in a Flair Tiger Moth. Whilst the engine does fit, the supplied exhaust stub would fowl the cowling so need to turn the exhaust through 90 deg in approx 3/4" offset from the cylinder head. "
Besides being a neat solution, this last one do not satisfy Discus-fly needs, say, approx 3/4" offset from the cylinder head.
I thing this limit is to keep the muffler/header inside the cowling.

discus-fly

Think also a three part 90 deg bend as illustrated by Pardal would also be difficult to hold together whilst applying solder. Think a 15mm plate with two blind holes interconnecting is going to be a better solution unless I can find a suitable 90 deg connector similar in style to the picture below which I can modify in some way to solder to the supplied manifold less its existing pipe.


Out of interest what size diam is the supplied pipe?

dogshome

14mm OD. 13mm OD also fine.

spaceworm

Some right angle adapters that were fabricated with sharp internal corners like the example shown have failed due to stresses induced by vibration. Others that were cast rather than forged have also failed due to vibration. Just a heads up in your quest to find a right angle adapter. The Saito adapters have fared better than those from some other vendors. Tony Clark also has some adapters with which no one has found fault.

Sincerely, Richard

PARDAL

Discus-fly, try to rotate the engine clockwise some degrees, may be the custon exhaust stack fit inside the cowling than You make an extention with teflon tube to the boton-center just ahead of fire wall.

discus-fly

Out of interest has anyone tried tapping the head so that a right angle bend form J#stEngines could be used?

As for rotating the engine this is not going to be possible in the restricted space of the Tiger Moth cowl.

PARDAL

Here are pics of NGH 38 in a Miles Sparowhawk cowling, it's was my option.
It is not so bad.
You can see the originas stack.

discus-fly

Thanks Richard did like the Toni Clarke site which did appear to offer several parts which could prove to be useful. Site my be of interest to others http://www.toni-clark.com/index_en.htm

Also Pardal like your installation, looks very neat. Had decided brining the exhaust out of the side of the tiger cowl would look strange but now will give it further consideration.

From what I can see I do have now several viable options, so will proceed with the purchase of the engine as and when good old HK get it back in stock within the UK. Dont wish to buy from the Far East site as got stung with VAT on the last major order I gave them. Once bitten twice shy now.

dogshome

There isn't enough meat to tap the head. I made an aluminium adaptor, someone else a brass one - earlier in the thread.

dogshome

Not happy with engine mount! So:

discus-fly

Any chance you produced a dimensioned drawing for your adapter dogshome, as need to show a dimensioned drawing to a friend who has offered to manufacture one for me. My adapter would need to be somewhat different requiring the output to be at 90 deg to the input but basically the design would interface to the engine in an identical manner. Possibly thinking a rectangular section tube exhaust stub would be an even better option say just wider than the two fixing bolts to allow a straight clamped coupling to the exhaust manifold with an appropriate hole drilled to match the engine exhaust.

dogshome

There are just 2 M3 clearance holes and the M14* 0.75 to take ASP etc flexi pipe.

If I was going to make a right angle one, I'd make the hole 12mm clearance to match the head and cross drill the 13mm for tapping the threaded pipe outlet. The clearance is OK for M14 between the bolt holes how I have it (direct to head), but a smaller hole there would be nicer. The outlet angle would have to be at 90 degrees to the mounting screws.


I just used the standard header as a template - give him that? If I did a drawing, no guarantees since it would be retrospective!

dogshome

Just need an airframe now

ALFIEV

And... after a long lay-off due to repairs needed to the airframe the NGH GF38 powered ESM Corsair took to the skies once more. Engine ran really well, never missed a beat.
Colour me happy!!!

discus-fly

After a long wait here in the UK good old HK finally got another batch of engines in stock, so now just waiting for mine to arrive.

Given I have not run a fuel powered model for 40 years lost as to what sarter I need. Therefore looking for a cheap solution / purchase. Also what recomendations would you make for running the engine in on the bench before I transfer it to my intended airframe.

dogshome

The smaller Just Engines geared starter (or similar) will do it. Dynatron if you have more cash. Normal 40/60 size non-geared won't do it. The Lipo powered one by Thunder Tiger would do it too (just, once the motor has loosened up).

I have no opinion on running in

discus-fly

Ok now have my engine and need the first of several nupty type questions answered.

Does the lower pulse tube ie the nipple closest to the carb connect to the lower or center crank nipple? According to the suplied diagram it apears to connect to the centre crank connection but have seen a picture on an early post in this thread that seems to reverse the two connections.

PARDAL

I use mine connected to the center nipple in the back plate of crank case.
Others to the outer one. It seens make not relevant difference.

discus-fly

Yes did find an interpretation of the original instructions that said that there was no particular order to the connections..

Did note though on some photos that people t the conection to the front crank nipple. So still a little confused.

spaceworm

Re the starter issue: A friend used a 12 volt starter (Sullivan I think) on 24 volts (2 gel cell 12 volt in series) to start new 26 cc gas, used 38 cc 2 stroke gas, and new 180 Saito 4 stroke. Worked great, but prolonged running on new engines burned out the switch. I wired around the switch and used an external heavy duty switch. Later, the engines started faster after initial break-in and adjustment, so the starter was not as abused as earlier. Seems to be holding up well now. " Individual results may vary"

Sincerely, Richard

ALFIEV

I have an "Align" starter which runs on a 2200mah 3-cell 11.3 v LiPo battery. Works very well.

spaceworm

It seems that it doesn't matter which nipple you suck from, they must all taste the same.