NGH 38CC 4 stroke
#1126
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: UlladullaNSW, AUSTRALIA
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The Tap and Die arrived this morning, always get a set. Tapped out the adaptor and fitted, the engine is down around 100rpm at WOT, but is very quite, muffler and pipe from a ASP180FS. Will get the tubing from Christian's and try it again.
Cheers
Cheers
Last edited by The Ghost; 04-07-2015 at 05:31 PM.
#1127
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: UlladullaNSW, AUSTRALIA
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Hi All,
The rain stopped long enough to run the engine and test it on smoke. Running just over 6000rpm. Will have to set up the smoke pump now and test again.
Cheers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tV6hTKdLc&feature=youtu.be
The rain stopped long enough to run the engine and test it on smoke. Running just over 6000rpm. Will have to set up the smoke pump now and test again.
Cheers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tV6hTKdLc&feature=youtu.be
#1129
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Location: UlladullaNSW, AUSTRALIA
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#1132
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#1133
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#1134
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: BlenheimMarlborough, NEW ZEALAND
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Nice to see this site is still active and the NGH GF38 is still gaining new owners! I hope you have sucess with your projects. The NGH still powers my ESM 74" Corsair and has been flown over recent weeks. The engine hasn't missed a beat, has enough power for my model, and it is only certain weaknesses in the airframe (fibreglass inner wing) that has kept me from flying this more often.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
#1135
Join Date: Nov 2014
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AW if you do intend to build the Flair Tiger then would suggest a few mods are required.
Found today that the GF-38 is too long for the space available under the cowl, hence a recess apatature was required in the rear firewall.
Wound suggest perhapse moving the firewall at least 10mm towards the tail.
Also the engine bearers are far too close together to match the GF-38.
Otherwise she does fit as can be seen from the attached.
Found today that the GF-38 is too long for the space available under the cowl, hence a recess apatature was required in the rear firewall.
Wound suggest perhapse moving the firewall at least 10mm towards the tail.
Also the engine bearers are far too close together to match the GF-38.
Otherwise she does fit as can be seen from the attached.
#1136
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Location: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
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The Ghost,
Thanks for your PM with standoff picture details. Unfortunately I lost that PM and detail when trying to download it. Any chance you could send that pic to my email address.
Thanks
Alan W
Thanks for your PM with standoff picture details. Unfortunately I lost that PM and detail when trying to download it. Any chance you could send that pic to my email address.
Thanks
Alan W
#1137
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AW if you do intend to build the Flair Tiger then would suggest a few mods are required.
Found today that the GF-38 is too long for the space available under the cowl, hence a recess apatature was required in the rear firewall.
Wound suggest perhapse moving the firewall at least 10mm towards the tail.
Also the engine bearers are far too close together to match the GF-38.
Otherwise she does fit as can be seen from the attached.
Found today that the GF-38 is too long for the space available under the cowl, hence a recess apatature was required in the rear firewall.
Wound suggest perhapse moving the firewall at least 10mm towards the tail.
Also the engine bearers are far too close together to match the GF-38.
Otherwise she does fit as can be seen from the attached.
discus-fly,
You`re miles ahead of me with the Tigermoth. Mine will be an O/D - I now have plans to the stage I can build from them, but will hold off until a couple of other projects are cleared.
At least the test-rig is ready for a bench run - still waiting for the ignition unit to arrive and also stand-offs.
Alan W
#1139
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#1140
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: UlladullaNSW, AUSTRALIA
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#1141
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Moscow, RUSSIA
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I need you guys help.
I have a WorldModel GS Zero 180(Wingspan: 2M ; Weight: 7.5 ~ 8.5kg). And I am considering NGH GF38 for her power.
It will give enough power for GS Zero to scale flying?
I have a WorldModel GS Zero 180(Wingspan: 2M ; Weight: 7.5 ~ 8.5kg). And I am considering NGH GF38 for her power.
It will give enough power for GS Zero to scale flying?
#1142
I think the gf38 will be a perfect match for the zero. I have it on the ESM aihi d3a1 val, that is 205cm wingspan and ca 8kg.
you can se it here with a master 16x10 3-blade prop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OHXPzCsR3Q
you can se it here with a master 16x10 3-blade prop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OHXPzCsR3Q
#1143
Join Date: Nov 2014
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Given that the GF38 carb is now partly buried in the fire wall of my tiger moth, wondering about the possibility of turning the whole carb assembly through 180 degrees to allow better access to the jet adjustments. Has anyone done this before?
#1144
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You won't be able to rotate the carby as the porting for the pump in the carby won't line up, you would need to make an adaptor plate with new porting for it to work.
Cheers
#1145
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I think the gf38 will be a perfect match for the zero. I have it on the ESM aihi d3a1 val, that is 205cm wingspan and ca 8kg.
you can se it here with a master 16x10 3-blade prop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OHXPzCsR3Q
you can se it here with a master 16x10 3-blade prop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OHXPzCsR3Q
Thank you very much! Tyor.
#1146
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: UK - North West Hampshire
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Hi Guys
New to this thread - just picked it up on search engine as I am have a mare of a day with a new NGH FG38 bought from HobbyKing. When it first arrived I quickly mounted it in a test stand and got it to fire up in idle. It did that easily on an electric starter. As the prop I had was a tadge small and a tadge damaged(!) I dismounted and put it away to mount in the airframe.
Now in the airframe (1/4 scale Stampe - not that this is relevant) and it will not get above 3000 rpm on full throttle. 19x8 wooden AGM prop 20:1 fully synth mix.
Running is not smooth or reliable at that level either. Will idle at 1700 rpm or so but again not at all reliable. I have tried adjusting the needles a la standard Walbro setting up with little affect. Hi end needle seems very sensitive. It has had 30-40 minutes of intermittent running so I would have thought I should be seeing some stability in settings by now even if not fully bedded in.
My next port of call would be the timing but earlier posts here leave me confused. I would have set it to 28-30°TDC but it seems that it may require 40°. Before I start down that path I would appreciate any informed input.
My experience with gas is less than glow but I have run a number of bog-standard 26cc size 2 strokes and I currently running an ASP120 gas conversion (which is really sweet) that I a set up from scratch. So I am surprised I can't get this baby working.
Thanks in antcipation
New to this thread - just picked it up on search engine as I am have a mare of a day with a new NGH FG38 bought from HobbyKing. When it first arrived I quickly mounted it in a test stand and got it to fire up in idle. It did that easily on an electric starter. As the prop I had was a tadge small and a tadge damaged(!) I dismounted and put it away to mount in the airframe.
Now in the airframe (1/4 scale Stampe - not that this is relevant) and it will not get above 3000 rpm on full throttle. 19x8 wooden AGM prop 20:1 fully synth mix.
Running is not smooth or reliable at that level either. Will idle at 1700 rpm or so but again not at all reliable. I have tried adjusting the needles a la standard Walbro setting up with little affect. Hi end needle seems very sensitive. It has had 30-40 minutes of intermittent running so I would have thought I should be seeing some stability in settings by now even if not fully bedded in.
My next port of call would be the timing but earlier posts here leave me confused. I would have set it to 28-30°TDC but it seems that it may require 40°. Before I start down that path I would appreciate any informed input.
My experience with gas is less than glow but I have run a number of bog-standard 26cc size 2 strokes and I currently running an ASP120 gas conversion (which is really sweet) that I a set up from scratch. So I am surprised I can't get this baby working.
Thanks in antcipation
#1147
Hi
I bet it is your ignition battery. if you have the ignition that says 4.8-8.4v you have to use 6v or more to get it to run nice. one of mine engines behaved like yours when I used 4.8v
I bet it is your ignition battery. if you have the ignition that says 4.8-8.4v you have to use 6v or more to get it to run nice. one of mine engines behaved like yours when I used 4.8v
Last edited by tyor; 04-17-2015 at 06:38 AM.
#1149
Join Date: Apr 2015
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Well here's interesting.....have stripped the engine out of the model and mounted back into the test stand. Following Tyor's post I went back to the 4 cell nicd battery I used first time (plus I couldn't be bothered to liberate the lipo from the model) and hey presto it runs like a good 'un!
6500 rpm top end rock solid (same 19x8 AGM prop). Low end I can't get below 3000 rpm at the moment without it cutting when the throttle is blipped but that may come good with some more running in/tweaking.
Not what I was expecting at all - but I am mighty relieved.
The only other possible variable is that I found the Woodruff key had dropped out and I had to go searching for it. There is the outside chance I lost it before I put the engine in the model and just happened to lock the prop driver in approximately the right position but still out on the timing. I think this is unlikely however.
I will now set it up inverted as per the model and then change to a lipo ignition pack and see where that takes me.
I love mysteries when I am solving them - otherwise they are a pain in the backside!
6500 rpm top end rock solid (same 19x8 AGM prop). Low end I can't get below 3000 rpm at the moment without it cutting when the throttle is blipped but that may come good with some more running in/tweaking.
Not what I was expecting at all - but I am mighty relieved.
The only other possible variable is that I found the Woodruff key had dropped out and I had to go searching for it. There is the outside chance I lost it before I put the engine in the model and just happened to lock the prop driver in approximately the right position but still out on the timing. I think this is unlikely however.
I will now set it up inverted as per the model and then change to a lipo ignition pack and see where that takes me.
I love mysteries when I am solving them - otherwise they are a pain in the backside!
#1150
Join Date: Nov 2014
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Little of thread but has anyone tried the NGH GT09. Thinking of putting it in a Flair Puppeteer.
Also fitted the GF38 to the airframe and now stuck how to configure the throttle and choke. Wondering of the merits of installing the throttle servo directly in the engine bay.
Also fitted the GF38 to the airframe and now stuck how to configure the throttle and choke. Wondering of the merits of installing the throttle servo directly in the engine bay.
Last edited by discus-fly; 04-19-2015 at 03:01 AM.