Change your FG84R3 to 40-1 oil mix!!!!!!!!!!!
06-04-2015, 04:50 AM
#51
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FG-84R3D and FG-33R3 engines will remain unmodified for the forseeable future. The FG-60R3 and FG-19R3 both have the Ray English influenced bushing and intake modifications.
Our in-house FG-84R3D is box stock and now has well over 100 flights without issue. We use Red Line oil exclusively and 20:1 ratio pump gas.
Craig
Our in-house FG-84R3D is box stock and now has well over 100 flights without issue. We use Red Line oil exclusively and 20:1 ratio pump gas.
Craig
06-04-2015, 05:51 AM
#52
Box stock, but the main issue is that for the size of those two particular engines, the stock performance isn't up to par with where it should be. I guess it depends on your definition of "issue" as if general users (and not motor experts) didn't know of the Ray English mods, or the limitations of the current design, then it seems like there is indeed no issue In which case "without issue" is correct.
In which case "without issue" is correct.
06-05-2015, 03:52 PM
#53
Senior Member
Box stock, but the main issue is that for the size of those two particular engines, the stock performance isn't up to par with where it should be. I guess it depends on your definition of "issue" as if general users (and not motor experts) didn't know of the Ray English mods, or the limitations of the current design, then it seems like there is indeed no issue In which case "without issue" is correct.
In which case "without issue" is correct.
06-05-2015, 05:11 PM
#54
No problems using methanol "as-is"? I would guess the only difference is you'd need to richen up the mixture compared to petrol perhaps....? I prefer methanol myself.
06-05-2015, 06:30 PM
#55
Senior Member
You would have to substitute a glow fuel carburetor & modify the pick up to allow another 6-8 degrees of spark advance
06-06-2015, 09:07 AM
#56
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Hi,
Can you tell me your cylinder on your fg84r3 running at what temp?
What should be the maximum cylinder temp?
Did you perform the air purging procedure as said in the manual?
Thanks for your help
Can you tell me your cylinder on your fg84r3 running at what temp?
What should be the maximum cylinder temp?
Did you perform the air purging procedure as said in the manual?
Thanks for your help
06-07-2015, 12:04 PM
#57
Ran through 3 tanks today on the 84FG, and getting to learn tuning a radial.
My low speed needle was completly wrong, as it was way too lean from the factory......but got it all sorted out.
Number 1 and 2 cylinder are roughly following each other in temps, but number 3 is way colder/richer as it is rght now.
Need at least 3 tanks more to break in.
Carb works nice, and is responsive to throtte, and needle settings.....just difficult findng a comproimise to get the correct fuel amount to the thrird cylinder.
Video:
https://youtu.be/Uuy-kflmh6U
My low speed needle was completly wrong, as it was way too lean from the factory......but got it all sorted out.
Number 1 and 2 cylinder are roughly following each other in temps, but number 3 is way colder/richer as it is rght now.
Need at least 3 tanks more to break in.
Carb works nice, and is responsive to throtte, and needle settings.....just difficult findng a comproimise to get the correct fuel amount to the thrird cylinder.
Video:
https://youtu.be/Uuy-kflmh6U
06-08-2015, 06:10 AM
#58
Checked the valve clearance on all cylinders, and found #3 cylinder too tight, as it was slightly holding the exhast valve open slightly, making it leak.
Saito manual says due to the thermal expansion on these gas engines, that the tollorence should be almost zero when cold, as the gap increases when the temp goes up.
What is your practical experiance with this ?
Saito manual says due to the thermal expansion on these gas engines, that the tollorence should be almost zero when cold, as the gap increases when the temp goes up.
What is your practical experiance with this ?
06-08-2015, 04:26 PM
#59
Senior Member
Checked the valve clearance on all cylinders, and found #3 cylinder too tight, as it was slightly holding the exhast valve open slightly, making it leak.
Saito manual says due to the thermal expansion on these gas engines, that the tollorence should be almost zero when cold, as the gap increases when the temp goes up.
What is your practical experiance with this ?
Saito manual says due to the thermal expansion on these gas engines, that the tollorence should be almost zero when cold, as the gap increases when the temp goes up.
What is your practical experiance with this ?
06-14-2015, 01:15 PM
#61
After funning 5 liters through it, I had my maiden flight.....engine ran great....plane needs some bugs fixed before next flight :-)
But very satisfied with the engine at the moment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIPQvo9JKRQ
But very satisfied with the engine at the moment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIPQvo9JKRQ
06-15-2015, 06:59 AM
#62
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Ran through 3 tanks today on the 84FG, and getting to learn tuning a radial.
My low speed needle was completly wrong, as it was way too lean from the factory......but got it all sorted out.
Number 1 and 2 cylinder are roughly following each other in temps, but number 3 is way colder/richer as it is rght now.
Need at least 3 tanks more to break in.
Carb works nice, and is responsive to throtte, and needle settings.....just difficult findng a comproimise to get the correct fuel amount to the thrird cylinder.
My low speed needle was completly wrong, as it was way too lean from the factory......but got it all sorted out.
Number 1 and 2 cylinder are roughly following each other in temps, but number 3 is way colder/richer as it is rght now.
Need at least 3 tanks more to break in.
Carb works nice, and is responsive to throtte, and needle settings.....just difficult findng a comproimise to get the correct fuel amount to the thrird cylinder.
What fuel ratio are you using?
Thanks,
Bob I.
06-15-2015, 07:23 AM
#63
First 3 liters I ran 20:1, then 15: 1 on the last 2 liters, and the maiden flight, using Castorl TTS power racing oil.
I was VERY carefull monitoring the cylinder temps during break in, as you can easily get realy high temps on the top cylinder.
There is a learning curve to setting the needles. At first, It seemed like the high speed needle was totaly unresponsive....It felt like that I had almost screwed it out completly of the carb, and had no real changes in RPM.
I would only dare take the engine up to 4500rpm, as the temperatures above this would make me uncomfortable.
But then I realized that the low speed needle was restricting the flow, so when I opened it up, I could run the engine as rich as I wanted to.......
But if you run it too rich, the lower cylinders will not fire, and all the load is on the top cylinder....and again it will "overheat"
So you have to run it as rich as possible, but still have all cylinders firing.
There is a learning curve to adjusting the engine, and eventualy, I got there, and got both my needles to do exactly as I wanted them to do :-)
Too rich, and it will drop a cylinder at idel, and too lean, will give you exessive temps....it is a very fine line.
After my 5 liter break in, cylinder 1 and 2 where about the same temps, and the #3 was about 20c cooler, and I decided to install the cowl, and run it a bit more on the ground, then had the maiden flight without any issues.
I was VERY carefull monitoring the cylinder temps during break in, as you can easily get realy high temps on the top cylinder.
There is a learning curve to setting the needles. At first, It seemed like the high speed needle was totaly unresponsive....It felt like that I had almost screwed it out completly of the carb, and had no real changes in RPM.
I would only dare take the engine up to 4500rpm, as the temperatures above this would make me uncomfortable.
But then I realized that the low speed needle was restricting the flow, so when I opened it up, I could run the engine as rich as I wanted to.......
But if you run it too rich, the lower cylinders will not fire, and all the load is on the top cylinder....and again it will "overheat"
So you have to run it as rich as possible, but still have all cylinders firing.
There is a learning curve to adjusting the engine, and eventualy, I got there, and got both my needles to do exactly as I wanted them to do :-)
Too rich, and it will drop a cylinder at idel, and too lean, will give you exessive temps....it is a very fine line.
After my 5 liter break in, cylinder 1 and 2 where about the same temps, and the #3 was about 20c cooler, and I decided to install the cowl, and run it a bit more on the ground, then had the maiden flight without any issues.
06-16-2015, 02:52 AM
#66
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11-10-2015, 05:08 PM
#69
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Anyone have Ray's contact info? I'd like to discuss sending him a FG-84.
Ray is usually pretty busy and Fred responds rather quickly from what I remember.
I got my FG 84R3 back in about 4 weeks.
[email protected]
[email protected]
Also the Thread's Title "Change your FG84R3 to 40-1 oil mix" is misleading...which I think Condor060 addressed on the first page. Ray recommends Cool Power Full Synthetic at 15:1.
Last edited by NUMB LOCK; 11-10-2015 at 05:15 PM.
11-10-2015, 05:20 PM
#70
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I first contacted Fred Culbertson (condor060) who set up an invoice for me.
Ray is usually pretty busy and Fred responds rather quickly from what I remember.
I got my FG 84R3 back in about 4 weeks.
[email protected]
[email protected]
Also the Thread's Title "Change your FG84R3 to 40-1 oil mix" is misleading...which I think Condor060 addressed on the first page. Ray recommends Cool Power Full Synthetic at 15:1.
Ray is usually pretty busy and Fred responds rather quickly from what I remember.
I got my FG 84R3 back in about 4 weeks.
[email protected]
[email protected]
Also the Thread's Title "Change your FG84R3 to 40-1 oil mix" is misleading...which I think Condor060 addressed on the first page. Ray recommends Cool Power Full Synthetic at 15:1.
Here is a video I put together which has a lot of technical info for the FG84R3. (I posted this on a different thread/web site - forgot which one). This shows what it sounds like before and after the modification.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9YyNMdzrtE
Last edited by NUMB LOCK; 11-10-2015 at 05:25 PM.
10-02-2016, 03:06 PM
#71
i know this s an old thread ,but it's still very informative . i was hot to get the FG 84 till i got reading this thread. does anyone know if saito used any of rays mods in the new engines?
i'd like to know before i pull the trigger. i'm not a fan of moki's only because the the high maintenance regarding the rocker arm along with the push rods being exposed to dirt etc. I had a byron up for sale but due to the lack of interest or money , i thought about keeping it and putting a radial in her but i'm not sure what i want to do now given the issues i have seen. any thoughts on a " better" radial? and condor... thanks for the cool vids on YT .
i'd like to know before i pull the trigger. i'm not a fan of moki's only because the the high maintenance regarding the rocker arm along with the push rods being exposed to dirt etc. I had a byron up for sale but due to the lack of interest or money , i thought about keeping it and putting a radial in her but i'm not sure what i want to do now given the issues i have seen. any thoughts on a " better" radial? and condor... thanks for the cool vids on YT .
10-02-2016, 08:16 PM
#72
By "new" presume you're referring to the FG-90R3, recently announced but not yet shipped.
Don't think anyone knows given it has yet to ship, but I for one, would be very surprised if the new engine did not include a very similar designed intake and con-rod bushings.
Don't think anyone knows given it has yet to ship, but I for one, would be very surprised if the new engine did not include a very similar designed intake and con-rod bushings.
10-03-2016, 04:45 AM
#73
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Saito will not be able to upgrade the FG 84 unless they purchase the rights from Ray as Saito actually licensed the mod to him. Good news though. You can buy a new FG 84 already modified directly from Ray and save a few bucks as well.