mstam1971

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That's IMO a long wait
I'm going for a new DL50 soon. Plan on getting me the GP Reactor.
http://www.greatplanes.com/performan.../gpma1420.html

Super08

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I have been following the thread on it. I want one too, but I have enough on the go already.

mstam1971

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Will be a blast with the DL50. Only thing I don't like about it is the linkages that should have been ball links, the position of the servos - EF does a much nicer job hiding them in the stabs - and the lack of a pull-pull system. Linkages and pull-pull can be modified of course.

adamasonyx

Super08,
Can you post pictures of the new carb and the letters too?
After reading all the post on this thread, I finally got one. It'll be here by next week. Then I can compare it with yours. Thanks super.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

I can post a pic later on next week as I am back on shift and I'm gone 15 hours a day. You will find the carb number on the side by the fuel nipple. I have no idea what the difference is between them as they all have the same size venturi and look exactly the same other than the model number .

adamasonyx

Take your time super, I'm expecting the engine next week. I will scrutinize it and will compare. Tnx

RadarController

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Somebody help me out here.. I just don't have the oomph to read 3000 posts. I have the DL-50. New on my work bench, about to mount on my plane. I got to reading the instructions.. Says break in at 2500rpm for two hours! This accurate!? Anybody out there help me out with the break in procedures for this? Or go straight by the DL instructions?

mstam1971

My Feedback: (2)

DL instructions. 2 hours 2500 rpm, 2 hours 3500-4500 rpm, 32:1 lawnboy ashless, 22x8 prop. At least 3 gallons break-in fuel. After these 4 hours you have little over 2 gallons left. I let the engine run for 2 nights while I was watching TV inside. No problem.

1. Set needles as stated in the manual;
2. Run engine for 5 minutes or so;
3. After a cool down, fire it up, let it run hot;
4. Close LS needle 1/8 at a time until the engine starts to surge increasing rpm fast (not full throttle);
5. Open LS 1/8;
6. Complete 4 hours break-in;
7. Run engine hot full throttle and adjust needles again before you put the cowling on.

Needle adjustments after the 4 hours:
Adjust HS needle for max rpm, then open it 1/16 or about 150-200 rpm drop.
Adjust LS as described above.
Repeat because LS and HS influence each other.
Put the cowling on and have fun flying until you're through the 3 gallons.
Remove cowling, mount a 23x8 or 23x10 on a tuned pipe and run one tank of the synthetic gas mixture (e.g. Amsoil Saber 80:1).
Adjust needles again and put the cowling back on and you're all set.

adamasonyx

got the sd-models extra 260 today, this thing is HUGE! This is my first giant so bear with me.
I've read all the posts here and still want to clarify things out. I know to run the engine for 2hours @ 2500rpm, 2hours @ 3500-4500rpm, my question is: is it using needles' factory setting? That I can only adjust/tune the engine after 4 hours or after 2 hours if I decide to fly the plane after the initial 2hours @ 2500rpm.
It's a shame Bob P(the guru) doesn't have a DL engine and is not quiet monitoring this thread anymore...

mstam1971

My Feedback: (2)

I just explained the needle settings in my previous post. Ignore the factory settings, set the needles as stated in the manual, run 5 minutes to loosen it up and adjust LS needle as described in my previous post. Be careful not to let the engine run high rpm for too long.

The recommended settings are choking rich for most of us and you don't want to run the engine rich for 4 hours. I even prefer a slightly lean run the first 2 hours @2500rpm. Let the extra air flow, low prop load and high oil contents do the work.

Also don't forget to put the wings on to absorb vibration.

craigteffe

My Feedback: (24)

There is no need to run the engine on the ground for that length of time!!! All you need to do is run one tank thru the engine with the stock setting at different throttle settings for 5 min intervals and shut it down then let it cool and do it again till the first tank is run out. Then fill the tank back up and and adjust the needles for good performance and fly the darn thing Use the KISS method (keep it simple stupid). After running thru 4 gallons of fuel switch over to amsoil or another good quality synthetic.

I have two of these engines and they run great and that is the way that mine are run in.

RadarController

My Feedback: (2)

I have a can of Lawn Boy already. You broke it in on your plane? The plane I'm putting it on has no cowling.

mstam1971

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Yes on the plane. Put some rope over the stabs and rudder.
craigteffe states one tank on the ground is enough which is true for most nitro engines, not for gasoline engines if you care about performance and a smooth running engine w/o troubles. My DL is running close to 7900rpm on an MTW RE2 pipe and Vess 22A (22x8). I'm almost through the first 3 gallons. Will shoot a video tomorrow, weather allowing.

adamasonyx

Thanks for the reply mstam/craig. Yup, I mean LS/HS manual setting.

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

I ran a 1/2 tank thru my gas 52cc motor,it ran fine,good enough to fly lazy circuits.So I topped it up and went flying,done.
Most guys just rough tune and fly gently to break in.Running a gasser for 2 hours on the ground sounds absolutely ridicilous,somewhat frightening really.Mine was also not a DL,but still.
I do the same with glow motors too,as soon as they seem reliable at idle and transition they get to go fly.I take it easy,short bursts of power,shallow climbs,and low throttle circuits.Glow motors were a bit rich to start,gassers were tuned,close to max rpm,but not rich and then flown.Has worked for over 20 years and 15 engines.

The Big Kahuna

Where can I find RE2 pipes?

mstam1971

My Feedback: (2)

Many people me included don't fly circles. That's what I call ridiculous, especially for someone flying for 20 years! 4 hours ground break-in time is nothing and the plane can be flown the way you like it from the start. Everyone has his own philosophies, I like my engines to run superb.

mstam1971

My Feedback: (2)

DA carries them. For the DL50 you need the MTW wraparound header. For most planes with a 25mm drop. I recommend going for the solid header, not the flex. And you need the Teflon coupler of course, 2 clamps and a 55mm canister holder.

This was my last order:

MTW wraparound header for DA 50 with 25mm drop
MTW RE2 Pipe
Teflon coupler kit, for 25mm dia headers
MTW Plywood canister holder, 55mm diameter

You need to run a 23x10 prop with this combination like the Vess 23B.

Edit [8D] If you break your engine in well, you can squeeze between 7200-7300rom out of this combo with a Vess 23B. That's over 35lbs of thrust.

The Big Kahuna

Thanks for that mstam1971
Any chance of some install photos from the underside, or at least a better look of the config. with the pipe?

rcflyrc3

Is there a website I can review the MTW exhaust systems in English?

mstam1971

My Feedback: (2)

Not really. Results are widely spread over the different forum threads. This graph might give you an idea between different exhaust systems. http://mvvs.nl/images/58ccmvvs-power.jpg

You can see that the torque of a canister is more constant and the torque of the RE2 pipe increases with the rpm. Nevertheless the differences in both torque and power is enormous. I can tell because my DL hovers my 17-1/2lbs EF Extra at 1/3 throttle on the small Vess 22A break-in prop. I hope I can get through the remaining 3/4 gallon break-in fuel today and start using the 23B on Amsoil Saber 80:1. After 3/4 gallon I already tached 7200rpm, I expect the DL to exceed 7300rpm on a synthetic gas mixture now that it is broken in. That's a lot of power!

wavy777

Amen brother!! My feelings exactly...my 3 DL's loved that treatment!!

eugene

craigteffe..
I have two DL's, and this is exactly the way they were broken in... One tank on the ground at varying throttle settings, adjust for good transition and top end, and go flying.......Of course, this did not include full throttle hovers and out of sight verticles, just trimming, figure eight, loops and rolls for the first in flight 24oz tank. then trim the adjustments and your're on your way...
a most important item is plenty of cooling air past the engine..

mstam1971

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This the bottom of my EF Extra 300.

gr8taz nitro

My Feedback: (7)

I broke mine in per my conversation with Bob at DLUSA. Run about 20oz through on the ground at different rpm's with cooldown time and tune it for good transition and reliable idle and go fly. I've never had any problems with my engine since was turning 6960 with a 3W 22x8 and 3 gallons later am using a Xoar sword 23x8 using mobil 1 2t @ 50:1, accelerates straight up at a little over 1/2 throttle on a 3DHS Katana.