Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

It will if it runs hot! As it would with any oil.

Pennzoil would be fine under the right conditions.

Scooterpilot

My Feedback: (5)

For the DLE 30V2, rear carb, can someone tell me the distance from the back of the carb to the prop nut?



Thanks
Chuck

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Go here:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...rts-views.html

Not sure if this is the exact info you need but should be able to get close enough.

Scooterpilot

My Feedback: (5)

Truckracer,

That's exactly what I was looking for...thanks

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Could anybody tell me what the physical difference is between the DLE 20 and DLE 30 carb? I was told by a distributor that they are the same. Would like a second opinion....

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

The venturi size is different but the overall physical size of the carb is the same. These are Walbro WT series clones and are all the same basic size and shape.

Bodge

Hi, Just dropped in on this discussion. I had exactly the same problem with my DLE 30 with the same symptoms you are describing - the engine would cut or run rough inverted. I went through all the checks until I eventually replaced the plug cap. There was nothing specifically wrong the originally plug cap other than the plastic moulding which grips the plug was too tight; when I thought the cap was on firmly it was only half way there. The new cap snapped on nicely and I immediately knew something was different. The DLE performed perfectly from then on and has continued to do so - it's a great engine.

MikeStak

My Feedback: (1)

I am thinking about replacing my DLE 20ra with the DLE 30 in my Hangar 9 Showtime 90 to get better vertical. The only issue is that the thrust washer will be .37 inches more forward with the DLE 30 than where it is with the DLE 20ra. I cant move the cowl forward since it will make it a mess and they dont sell them anymore. Does anyone know if they make shorter standoffs for the DLE 30?

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Determine what length you need and then check Horizon for standoffs. I think Performance Specialties sells them too.

MikeStak

My Feedback: (1)

Perfect, thanks!

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Glad to help! Most standoffs are measured in millimeters so do your math and then you'll know what length to order.

karolh

By getting a 1" dia hardwood dowel stick and cutting it to the desired lengths you can make yourself any length standoffs you need.

mach2

My Feedback: (5)

You may consider the RCGF 26cc beam mount. Way lighter than the DLE 30 with almost as much power. And cheaper.

Just thought I'd throw that out there.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Hey Mike!

Per Tower the standoffs for the DLE 30 are 2.4". Chief Aircraft has standoff sets of various sizes, between $12 and $28. I would cut a hole in the middle of the firewall to sink the carb into.

See you at the field on Saturday.

captinjohn

With a hole in the firewall...you can then use a velocity stack. It will stop carb spray back..............

sjanninck

Even though it is a side mounted carb, the fuel / air mixture looks to still be induced at the rear of the crank. This is not like the original side carb version. Hopefully same rear carb performance, just carb placement for model flexibility. I look forward to watching this one!
steve

dwreel

Me thinks one of us is mixed up. The rear mounted carb ( the Newest ) is the newest version. Your post is confusing.

Murphey

My Feedback: (11)

Dwreel...just sent you a PM

captinjohn

+1 Good Idea...worked for me !

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

I have used the dowel standoffs but I went to brass tubing so I dont have to drill a hole in it. just put some washers on each end of the tube.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

My DLE 30 is suddenly no longer pulling fuel (it used to run great). I just rebuilt the carb and checked all tubing and still no fuel being pulled to the carb. Also pulled the screen out of the carb. Also closed the small hole in the choke plate. The reed valves seem fine. Needles are at 1.5 (L) and 1.75 (H). I used 1/8" tubing for the vent tube on the tank for easier airflow. Also took apart the metering needle - looked fine. I haven't taken the LS and HS needles out yet to check for dirt - will do that tomorrow. Could there be junk in a carb port, preventing the pulse? What am I missing??

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Did you check the reeds?

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Yes, did check the reed valve - they look fine. Also applied suction - felt like the reeds closed normally. btw - I also tried another DLE30 carb I had laying around - same thing. Also checked pressure on the fuel lines and tank - was fine. And I'm wondering if there's a crack in the carb manifold. I didn't see anything. This one has me stumped so far.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Sometimes it's possible to install the carb gasket where it's offset to one side or the other far enough where the pulse port is blocked completely. You might open both the needles to 2 turns until you get it figured out as well.

Hang in there, you'll find it! -Al

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

I've got the tank and engine out of the plane for this testing. I just blew into the tank vent tube (to create back-pressure) then pushed the metering valve arm (that side of the carb is now open for testing) and gas came quickly up the tube to the carb. But when I hand-crank the engine (with the carb together) and with the choke closed (and throttle open) I get nothing - no movement of gas up the line towards the carb. Do I need to be doing this with more force, ie, have the engine mounted on the engine and cranking with a prop on? I also tried the "reverse pump" on the crack shaft - also no movement of fuel. Also just changed the gasket between the crankcase and the carb manifold. No change. Seems pretty clear the problem is I'm not getting a pulse into the carb pump chamber through normal operation. Could one of the internal passages in the carb be blocked with gunk? Any way to test those? (not sure of the internal piping). Or should I soak the entire carb in acetone overnight?