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Old 10-25-2013, 06:06 AM
  #5176  
AMA 74894
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Originally Posted by drube
I'm having a hard time getting my DLE 30 to stay at low idle. I have 2 gal through it so far and changed the plug to a NGK, running a 18x8, am hoping it's just a break in issue. When I blip the throttle it will drop down to low idle but soon after return to a high idle. I don't have a tach yet so I can't tell you the rpm's. Other than that the engine runs great!
Any idea's?

Thanks
that sounds like the low end is too LEAN... and perhaps the high end is too rich.
(think of the explanation below as a cartoon diagram... not 'technically correct' but should get the point across)
when above idle, (the high end needle is 'in charge' and is set slightly rich) you go to idle.
the engine idles down, (now the low end needle is 'in charge') since the engine has a slight amount of 'extra' fuel (from the slightly rich high end needle) it initially idles low
then burns off that 'extra' fuel and settles into a slightly lean (and slightly high) idle.

I had a very similar issue with my DLE30 (also using the NGK plug)
the other issue I had with mine was that the throttle servo itself was not fully closing the throttle valve.
after adjusting the servo and linkage to the point where I could kill the engine with the throttle trim, AND tweaking the needle valves, all my high idle issues went away.
Old 10-25-2013, 08:06 AM
  #5177  
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Too lean
Old 10-25-2013, 08:26 AM
  #5178  
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Thanks guys, that makes sense. I'll do more tuning today. Like I said, other than the idle issue the engine runs great. Smooth transition from idle to full throttle and yes, I have done some tuning through break in.
Thanks again.
Old 10-25-2013, 12:00 PM
  #5179  
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I richened up the low end like you guys said and that fixed the problem. I had to do a little tweeking on the high end for a good transition but all is good. I also picked up a tach and at idle i'm getting 1650.
Thanks again for the help!
Old 11-05-2013, 12:18 PM
  #5180  
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Originally Posted by drube
I richened up the low end like you guys said and that fixed the problem. I had to do a little tweeking on the high end for a good transition but all is good. I also picked up a tach and at idle i'm getting 1650.
Thanks again for the help!
How much you opened the low end needle? I'm new to gas engines and have on my DLE30 exacly same issue with idle rpm's.
Old 11-05-2013, 12:33 PM
  #5181  
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In my case, I only needed to open the low end needle less than 1/4 turn (clockwise = more open = more rich)

another symptom that my engine showed at the time: with the choke closed the engine would actually run for half a second. it should only 'bark' but not run with the choke closed.
that was my first real clue that the low end was too lean.
Old 11-05-2013, 12:53 PM
  #5182  
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Originally Posted by AMA 74894
In my case, I only needed to open the low end needle less than 1/4 turn (clockwise = more open = more rich)

another symptom that my engine showed at the time: with the choke closed the engine would actually run for half a second. it should only 'bark' but not run with the choke closed.
that was my first real clue that the low end was too lean.
From my experience 1/4 turn clockwise = more closed = more lean. Maybe you have a different carb than the one supplied with my DLE30.

DaleD
Old 11-05-2013, 12:56 PM
  #5183  
georgewaldrop
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Originally Posted by AMA 74894
In my case, I only needed to open the low end needle less than 1/4 turn (clockwise = more open = more rich)
Actually, unless it is a different carburetor than I have seen (and I have a gaggle of DLE engines, but NONE of them purchased in the last 3-4 months) turning the needle clockwise, whether the HSN or the LSN, results in a LEANER setting on that needle...so clockwise=more closed=more lean

As to the rest of your comment, I'm not sure what they are supposed to do, but when starting any of my gas engines, with the choke closed, it is not unusual at all for them to try to start (pop through more than one "bark", but generally not actually "start") , which is when I open the choke and flip the engine through several more times and usually the engine will start from there. I am certainly no expert on gas engines (I've called JediJody a number of times for help! ), but this is what I have seen from my observations.

Have a Blessed Day!
George

-=< OOPS!!! Dale beat me to it!!! >=-
Old 11-05-2013, 01:03 PM
  #5184  
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ya ever have one of THOSE days...
of course you're both absolutely correct, and I'm obviously having a lesdyslic moment...

COUNTER clockwise = more open = more rich...

and yes, on my DLE 30, with the low end too LEAN and the carb closed, the engine would actually start and run...
thank goodness for safety precautions (helper + solid hold down stand)
Old 11-05-2013, 01:10 PM
  #5185  
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LOL!

I sometimes resemble your lesdyslic remark!
Old 11-05-2013, 01:22 PM
  #5186  
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Originally Posted by pilot4fn
How much you opened the low end needle? I'm new to gas engines and have on my DLE30 exacly same issue with idle rpm's.
In my case it was about an 1/8 of a turn.
Old 11-14-2013, 03:21 PM
  #5187  
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This might already be in the thread somewhere but no luck finding it...

Can I reverse the carb? If yes should I also reverse the reed block?

Thanks
Old 11-14-2013, 03:56 PM
  #5188  
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I don't believe so. Look and see if the pulse hole in the carb has vacum to it.
The main thing is don't over tighten the reed block/carb.
Old 11-14-2013, 03:58 PM
  #5189  
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Yes you can rotate the carb. The reed block is symmetrical so will work in either direction. It has (2) pulse holes for this purpose.
Old 11-14-2013, 05:26 PM
  #5190  
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Did it last week and the engine runs.
Old 11-15-2013, 07:06 AM
  #5191  
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Thanks guys!
Old 11-15-2013, 09:38 PM
  #5192  
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Originally Posted by drube
In my case it was about an 1/8 of a turn.
Thanks,
Opened up LS needle 1/8 turn and problem is solved!
Old 11-18-2013, 07:32 PM
  #5193  
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Good job!
Old 12-01-2013, 04:02 PM
  #5194  
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Hi guys.

Got a nifty problem for you guys cause I'm stumped right now.. Been wracking my brain for days..

The engine works flawlessly good low through high response in normal attitude.. But as soon as I fly inverted and add more throttle the engine suddenly dies.. stutters then poof dead engine..

I've checked my ignition, my plug, battery voltage, that there aren't any kinks in the lines.. I can't find nothing wrong..

Like I previously said if I'm flying straight and level no problem, stall turns no problem.. go any where near inverted flight and poof dead engine as soon as I add more throttle...

Honestly I don't know what's going on..


I got the idea to then re-tune the engine with the plane inverted, well I got it working semi-right inverted that it wouldn't die.. But as soon as I put the plane back in its normal form the engine stutters, and my setting are screwy. so had to re-tune it like it was before.. honestly don't know what's going on..

Any help tips advice I'll happily take.. and I fly both 3d and pattern maneuvers and I'm using a redwing mx2. and my engine is a dle 30 rear carb
Old 12-01-2013, 04:11 PM
  #5195  
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You didn't mention whether or not you checked the clunk line inside the tank...could this be the problem?
Old 12-01-2013, 04:17 PM
  #5196  
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Night Scream - did you check the plumbing inside the tank? Could be either the klunk is getting hung up or the take-up line has fallen off the tube completely (which may still be covered in fuel while upright, but exposed to air when inverted). I've also had a rip in the take-up hose inside the tank that caused problems. Seems obvious, but you didn't mention checking that. btw - I have no problems going inverted with my DLE 20 and 30, though, in fact, when I bring them down to idle (while inverted) they both idle at a slightly higher RPM than normal. I have no idea why.

Other idea - have you rebuilt the carb? Maybe the pump membrane \ flaps are hard \ not flat (though it sounds like it's working fine otherwise).
Old 12-01-2013, 04:47 PM
  #5197  
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Originally Posted by microdon2
Night Scream - did you check the plumbing inside the tank? Could be either the klunk is getting hung up or the take-up line has fallen off the tube completely (which may still be covered in fuel while upright, but exposed to air when inverted). I've also had a rip in the take-up hose inside the tank that caused problems. Seems obvious, but you didn't mention checking that. btw - I have no problems going inverted with my DLE 20 and 30, though, in fact, when I bring them down to idle (while inverted) they both idle at a slightly higher RPM than normal. I have no idea why.

Other idea - have you rebuilt the carb? Maybe the pump membrane \ flaps are hard \ not flat (though it sounds like it's working fine otherwise).
I have checked and even changed the lines in the tank for new one's to make sure nothing like that is happening even check to make sure the tank is in the right position of neither being up or down accordingly to the carb.

I've checked the carb and it's been working flawlessly. The gasoline flow is working fine and it's got a great low and high

Honestly I'm stumped.. Like I previously said it just dies as soon as I fly inverted.. if it's for a few seconds no problem but afterwards if you add throttle .. poof it dies..

Anyone got any idea what's going on? I've checked and changed to two new plugs including an iridium one and does the same thing..
Old 12-01-2013, 04:53 PM
  #5198  
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You're saying "as soon as I add throttle". Are you going inverted at idle, and then add throttle? Are you going inverted at 1/2 throttle, cruising inverted for a few seconds and then push to WOT and that's when it dies? If you are at 1/2 throttle while inverted can you fly around like that for a while with no problems?

When I've had a similar problem as you (though while upright) the needle settings were either too rich or too lean. Had to adjust to find out which.
Old 12-01-2013, 05:50 PM
  #5199  
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I've read about some tuning issues right side up vs. upside down that were traced back to the metering lever and spring tension, the ones under the diaphram? The thought is the difference in weight of the diaphgram resting on the lever, vs. not (inverted vs. right side up) can make just enough tuning difference to make somebody crazy?

Might be worth your trouble to check that lever height, and maybe track down a new spring?
Old 12-01-2013, 07:00 PM
  #5200  
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We need to know what your high / low needle settings are. How many turns are they from factory setting. I think your diaphragm is bad in your carb. You are not always able to tell that its bad just put a new one in. Also clean the screen in the carb.You should check it first .

Last edited by FOOPED; 12-01-2013 at 11:30 PM.


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