a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

When you do a reply, look at the bottom of that and you'll see "Click here to upload images and files!"
Then you can upload your photos right into your msg's.

futura127

My Feedback: (57)

It almost looks to me like it was supposed to be there and is very Symmetrical and smooth.

futura127

My Feedback: (57)

Ok here.

futura127

My Feedback: (57)

The motor is running awesome otherwise. Maybe I should just leave well enough alone and go fly it and use the kill switch to stop it.

I have nothing to compare to so I need the experts that have had these apart to look and tell me if this is ok or not.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Futura - that small notch on the throttle plate is normal. I have it on mine.

futura127

My Feedback: (57)

Ok great that is all I needed to hear. It goes back together and I start flying the **** out of this thing. Thanks for the help and verification!

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Did you back out -or- remove the idle screw?
You should.

Silver screw, bottom of the carb in this photo....

futura127

My Feedback: (57)

yes it was removed along with the return spring before the first install.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Maybe the travel of your throttle servo is bottomed out not letting
the linkage travel far enough to close the throttle?

Get her back together and post a photo or two of that.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

ap1fixer - don't you need to leave that return spring on, though "unlatched", to keep the throttle axle from sliding up and down? Without that spring the throttle plate may be hanging up, and so stopping it from closing? (or is that what you meant). I found this out on a different Walbo carb and had to RE-THREAD this spring - no easy task.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

I leave it on period.
Have your linkage come off for whatever reason and you'll wish you had left it on.

The tiny bit of resistance has no ill effect on any decent throttle servo.
IOW-yes!

Idle screw is different and should be removed, use your TX to set idle.

MetallicaJunkie

yup i just learned to leave the throttle return springs from TOM a few months ago.... it prolongs the life, and assures the butterfly wont be slopping around at WOT, because at WOT the butterfly has play, and fully closed should not

litterbug

Btw; so far it appears that it does it's best with a 17 x 6 Vess -or- Zoar prop.
Put this eng right into it's power curve!

Photo with the Aerographix see through tank underneath is current setup.

EDIT: (fwiw)......
VVRC carries -or- (drop ships?) AW models, and AW carries DLE20's.
I think each also has combo deals as well.
[/quote]


I've onlyused the xoar props (seems to be the only one used at my current flying field). Just switched to the 17x6. Do toa BRAIN FART, my edge has a two piece fuse so I have the equipment. I will be ordering the prox 260 and prop hub from valleyview (I just need to figure out whether I want red/yellow or blue/orange).Too badVVRC doesn't carry the tetherite gear, I will have to contact OMP for these ($23.90 with shipping) I also need to pick up a 65mg, but that will becoming from LHS.

A1....Where did theclear tank come from?

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

My experience is on a lighter, aerobatic plane (7+ pound, 3DHS Velox) the Vess 17-8 is optimum, but on a heavier, plane with more drag at 8+ pounds the Vess 17-6 works better.

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Color choice......ever have one of those days where it's somewhat overcast,
and the bottom of your plane appears black while flying? I chose the red/yellow.

Krazy legs/tetherite L-G can also be obtained from......
http://outlawhobbyproducts.com/tethe...r-90-size.html

Wait until AFTER you've flown your PROX260 awhile before getting the clear tank. Stock
one will be fine.

{but IF you must know};
Clear tank came from......
http://www.aerographix.biz/fuel_tanks.htm
Note; their's comes stock with a very-very light weight filter screen, designed by
Oregon to be used with thin walled Oregon fuel line, in weed eaters, leaf blowers, etc.
AND they don't put zip-ties/wire on the fuel fittings inside the tank.

Our short 8 ounce tanks don't favor std Tygon fuel lines inside, as it don't flex enough.
So, I put Oregon [part #07-266] .094" I.D. x .203" O.D. [wall thickness=.050"] inside,
plus a Poulan clunk/filter part # 530095646

Many small eng repair shops carry such items.

More info about these fuel lines here......
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10102179

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

My PROX260 is at 7 lbs, but I never got around to trying any 17 x 8. The 17 x 6 is a perfect match so far.
But I'd bet the extra 8 degree pitch prop might be the ticket for tuning out any mid-range burbling
someone couldn't otherwise tune out. Might give that little bit of extra load some need.

Nitro-Tom

so seriously

Is the DLE 20 or the DLE 30 the better engine?

I am looking to get a "Small Bore" gasser....

I will purchase from either TBM or VVRC and get the 2 year warranty (I vowed NOT to give Hobbicrap any more business after they hosed me on an O/S repair and the manager was a total jerk when I questioned it) (So that leaves Tower out of power)

It's not about price really to me......My first gasser was a DA 50 since I knew I would be needing support and help....

I have had good luck with Troy built and Jodi and Valley View has a great rep as well......

It will also involve what plane to put it in, but I like the options there......so it boils down to which is the better motor?

Thanks guys for helping me decide!

-Peace out!

TimBle

can't say either one is better than the other. they're both fantastic for the jobs they are designed to do for different size aircraft.

If youhave a 1.20 (4stroke) size plane then the DLE20 is awesome.
If you have a 1.80 (4stroke size aircraft then the 30cc is awesome.

Looking at it another way, 20cc is briliant for anything under 4kg/
the 30cc is brilliant for anything under 5kg

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Tom,

They're both good, but YOU need to decide which fits the model your building.
The DLE30 is a radial mount, whereas the DLE20 is a rail mount like the vast majority of glows it replaces.
Plus, the DLE20 is equal to a 1.20 glow on steroids!

Read my Post #: 3815, and my notes embeded into Post #: 1 as well.
Should get ya pointed in the right direction.

AFTER reading those, then come back and tell us what your building and we can better
figure out your choice.

Nitro-Tom

sweet, thanks

I am really looking for a combo.......

I have started looking at a KMP AT-6 Texan from VVRC for use with the DLE 30
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/at-6-texan.html

and some of the profiles that use the DLE 20 like the YAK

Really want to stay with the 20 CC if I can, since I already have a YAK with a DA 50

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Tom,

Read the last 3 pages. We've just been discussing two good 20cc type profiles.
Right up your alley!

MetallicaJunkie

you cant go wrong with the VVRC profile "hybrid" as you can see there are no batteries, ignition module or fuel tank exposed, yet it has the look of a profile.... it does an awesome knife edge and has very stable slow flight characteristics, throw the sticks and it's bucking crazy!

RiverLarry

O !!!!   My Hero  a1pcfixer is on line !!!!  
1 more day  Jim   and wee will let the  20   rip it up !!!
better call  Captin John !!!!   
thinking of  head down to the   Michiana Sky Raiders  field             R/L

Nitro-Tom

I saw that and think it is AWESOME!!! Plus you used some of the OMP Tetherite gear if I recall to get some prop clearence.....that bird is sweet!

RiverLarry

I love the  OMP gear !!!  some people laft at them because thay give  but thay pop right back in place   deff the 60   the 40 a little short   
the 60 sise on a 40   are ok       R/L