40GeeBee

yes, after you have your first bad landing, I agree, it will be GRAVY!

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

As long as the gravy comes with biscuits and sausage

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

Hey Gee Bee gents... I'M BACK!!!

A few remaining issues to work out with the P-47, but she is essentially DONE and I am VERY HAPPY with the finished product

It seems no one ever answered the question about elevator servo installation??? so here is a picture of mine, from the outside and the inside.
I reinforced the mounting area with thin ply laminated to the fuselage side. And YES, the servo tray is held in place with two bolts and blind nuts - Blue LOCK-TITED OF COURSE

I used this method on Gee Bee's 1 and 2 - NO ISSUES.

LOOK at my latest Gee Bee "enhancement"... a CUSTOM SCALE DASH from my bud Hannes in Germany (see the Thunderbolt resting comfortably in the back ground)... actually quite jealous that my attention has shifted back the Grande Dame of the air... the GEE BEE!!!

Jimmy was getting pretty p***ed off that he had not instruments from which to work. NOW he's happy.

Swinny

Hey Richard, welcome back. Thanks for the elevator servo pictures, I finally figured it out, and can't believe the intended solution didn't occur to me earlier!

Elevator servos now installed, wings and servos complete, flying wires complete, finalising tank and batteries installation next week, then the door finishing and she'll be ready for flight! Can't wait.

nexusdc5

My Feedback: (4)

Hey RichardGee, Good to have you back! Wish I had more time to work on mine but I have made Very slight Progress though... I Contemplated on where to start.... One of the Biggest challenges on any of my builds is the Engine installation so I decided I was up for a challenge so I started there. Didnt turn out to bad, Actually pretty happy with how it turned out. Still need to make Ignition and Servo Control holes but thats all easy stuff. Anyways... Im off runnin!

40GeeBee

You are making a big mistake mounting that expensive engine with blind nuts, because they break off at the joint!

nexusdc5

My Feedback: (4)

40Gee Bee.... What do you mean they break off at the joint? What Joint? You mean the Base of the nut breaks off? These are Stainless Steel.... Ive Never had one of these Fail... Ever. Not To Mention The Engine Mount Was shipped with only Three Mounting Locations, I added three totaling 6. These arnt going anywhere... Under what Circumstances have you seen these fail? Ive Been Flying 27 years and Never have I seen or heard of one Fail. ???

hotrodblazer

Vince
If you were to use a longer bolt, you could add a locking nut on the back side,for redundancy..
Danny

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Definitely use the locking nut behind the blind nut, you will never need to be concerned about lose engine bolts Ive never had a blind nut fail either. Im inching my way through the build...trying to do more flying this year

Jimmy

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Glad to see you back Richard!! Of course your leave of absence is understandable I have to say I am jealous of that Hannes mfg. panel...It looks great! You realize that you will have to wire those little LED's so they will light up...

Jimmy

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

I agree that adding lock/jam nuts to the backside of your engine blind nuts is HIGHLY recommended... I know from bitter experience, as my first Gee Bee w/DA150 was bolted just like your Moki - into large blind nuts.
I could not understand WHY my pitch kept changing in flight...

THREE of the FOUR bolts came LOOSE during my first flight! I landed the plane with the engine flopping around up front!!![X(]
After that 'off the map pucker factor' I added nylon lock nuts to the back of each bolt and never had to worry about it again.

The Moki will indeed be an incredible look and sound... just BE PREPARED for flying this tiger by the tail. The Moki adds at least 5 additional pounds to an already highly loaded plane. The extra torque will be an additional handling factor. IT WILL BE AWESOME

TheRickster

My Feedback: (12)

Where is the extra 5 pounds when using the Moki coming from??? The Moki weighs roughly 11.25lbs.. A DA 150 weighs 8lbs and you have to add another 1lb or so for cowl mufflers.. That puts the DA package @ around 9lbs-9.5 lbs to the Moki's 11.25 lbs.. Looks like 2-2.5 pounds difference to me... In fact guys that are using cans or pipes are flying at the same weight as the Moki..

Also the Moki is so inheritly smooth the bolts backing out are not going to be an issue.. I would not run nuts on the backside of the blindnuts because then you would have to remove the dome to check/tighten the bolts in case of wood crush.. Defeats the purpose of using T-nuts to begin with...

Rick

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

The DA150 weighs 8 pounds. Stock DA mufflers will add about 12 oz to the overall weight.

The Moki 250 weighs 12 pounds w/ignition. A 32x18 propeller is approx. 1 pound - 6 ounces heavier than a 30x12.

Moki 250 w/32x18 = 13 pounds
DA150 w/stock mufflers and 30x12 = 9 pounds, 6 ounces.

My 5 pound estimate was too high. The difference is actually 3 pounds, 10 ounces.

Don’t get me wrong, the Moki 250 is absolutely “do-able� for this plane. Even CARF’s Andreas Geitz believes the two are “a match made in heaven.�
I believe for a perfectly trimmed, perfectly balanced, perfectly set up CARF Gee Bee R2 w/ an experienced pilot at the controls, Andreas’ statement is true.

I’ve built two, wrote the manual, and posted 36 flights; 32 flights with DA150 and 4 flights with DA100. IN that time I had one dead stick due to receiver crystal malfunction and one very hard landing in high winds… and I do not believe I have yet achieved the above “ideal� Gee Bee…

Would I fly a Moki 250 powered CARF Gee Bee? Absolutely!
Is a DA150 w/stock mufflers a superior power choice? Absolutely.

As far as not using nuts in addition to blind or T nuts – that is your prerogative.

nexusdc5

My Feedback: (4)

Has Anyone had trouble fitting there side door? My door is Actually Smaller than my Door Opening... My Door Falls right through the opening... Has anyone had this same problem? Is this Normal? Instructions are sayng that the door should be slightly Larger than the opening all the way around the door... Nothing has been Trimmed or cut yet. If this is true then I need to call Carf Models... Please let me know. Thanks...

TheRickster

My Feedback: (12)

Mine was a later kit and the door was larger than the opening. It overlapped close to 1/8th of an inch and really did not look very good like that.. I trimmed mine so that it would fit inside the opening and glued strips of 1/64th ply around the perimeter of the opening to act as a jam for the door to close against..


On a side note I weighed my dome with Moki 215, Bolly 32X14 prop, Ignition, wood spacer and it came to 13.6lbs.
I called Danny and he weighed his dome with 3W 150CS, 30X10 prop, ignition, mufflers, AL. spacer and it came to 10.5lbs..
By our rudimentary weighing the Moki Vs. 150 class engine is going to be 3-3.5 lbs ...

PS>> The 250 is 100 grams lighter than the 215 also..

Rick

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Nexus, I looked closely at my hatch door and it definitely needs trimmed to fit...Its the hinge supports that have to be trimmed. The door is held in place by the door latch and the hinge supports and the door will be capable of passing through the opening so that it can be held flush to the fuselage.

Jimmy

nexusdc5

My Feedback: (4)

Ok, Thanks For your Input guys, Since my Door was already painted I was going to make it work one way or another... Think thats Y the kit comes with laminated Glass just for this reason, To cut strips from it and glue to the inside edge of the door to form a jam. It makes perfect Cents...
Hey Rick... Thanks for the Moki vs the 150 class info... Ill let you know what Mine comes out to be.

hannes83

Time to built a new scale dummy radial :-)

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

As usual, Hannes is raising the bar again!!!! Looks awesome Hannes, I liked the instrument panel you sent to Richard as well...you have some great toys. I just ordered my graphics yesterday, and will post a pic of them when they arrive. Im going with the R1 is it? The number 11 plane Have not done much lately, still good flying weather and flyins to attend. Here is my graphics designers web, he is less than half the price of what Comp-Arf charges for graphics This is Brads first GeeBee but I can assure you they will be excellent...he has done all of my graphics and has never failed to satisfy my expectations No, he is not paying my, Im just sharing

www.badbradgraphics.com

Jimmy

Maxclimb

My Feedback: (61)

Hey all you stump sitters like me! If you go to the CARF website you will see that they are running a one week special on the GeeBee. I finally ordered mine it was $840.00 that's $200 off. Ray LaBonte is the rep I used. I will be using a 3W157 CSTS for power. I would like to know where to get that great looking instrument panel, dummy engine and pilot? Where is everyone getting their graphics? Thanks, Mike Donovan

RichardGee

My Feedback: (156)

The killer instrument panel can be acquired from Vogelsang... they also sell nice pilots, although I would caution you AGAINST adding much weight that far after of the CG!
http://www.vogelsang-aeroscale.com/nolla-j.html

Yes, a full body life like pilot looks great, but a pilot bust is lighter.

Dummy engines are available from a variety of sources, including Fiberglass Specialties and Williams Brothers.
Tower Hobbies does sell the 1/4 scale Wasp kit and it actually looks really good even in this 31% size cowl.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWAF6&P=7

Fiberglass Specialties is extremely durable and considerably heavier (a good thing), but lacks all the detail of the Williams Bros. model.

Dennis Kirby of Kirby's Kustom Graphics sells a graphics package. http://www.angelfire.com/oh2/kirbysgraphics/
CARF offers one as well.

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks for all that info Richard...Your P-47 excellent, you must be one proud owner! I received my GeeBee graphics from www.badbradgraphics.com Ill post a pic today, they look great and less than half what CARF charges for theirs.

Jimmy

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Graphics!!! NR2100 on the wing for scale size

Jimmy

hotrodblazer

Hi Gee Bee fans,
I have resumed work on my CARF R2. It resides on it's own worktable and has been there for two years.
I generally do not make posts unless I feel I can contribute in some way, but here is a topic that has not been approached thus far.
When time to cut cowl for exhaust routing , I ask"where did full scale exhaust exit?"Well the original racers used individual cylinder stacks and exited between cowl and fuse behind each cylinder.When Delmar started out, he did the same, but after repeated spitting off broken stacks from metal fatigue, he merged some together,then finally added a true collector ring and used two lower outlets behind cowl.This is the current configuration, as it sits in museum.
So back to my model,I have a concern with the cans dumping under the engine with a totally non-scale appearance and function.
This detail seems to have been missed by those that worry about less obvious details.
So if I must cut holes and exit exhaust, I want it to at least appear scale.So I removed downpipes from Johnson cans on 3W 150,blocked holes and fabbed new pipes that exit back under dome.
The pics reveal the results and am eager to see puffs of smoke pop from the polished tips!
Here I must credit The Rickster for his talented aluminum welding! I made no less than four trips to his shop for tack welds,changes and final welding.We are still deciding on the exhaust treatment to his Moki-powered Gee Bee.
We fly together at the same club and one day will bring two Carf Gee Bees out, Mine as #7, and his as #11, with R1 cowl.
Hopefully I may inspire others to consider similar methods,as pipes and rear mounted exhausts have proven to be problematic in the past, with CG changes.
Thanks Danny

TheRickster

My Feedback: (12)

That is the "GeeBee's Knee's"!!!!!!

Rick