hannes83

A Video of the Gee Beeflown bythe germanKlaus Svancara with the MOKI radial:

video.search.yahoo.com/search/video

hannes83

The "transportplate" for the trailer is ready to install:

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Hey Hannes, I think I see a spec of dirt on the floor!!! Lol Hannes, how about a shot of the GeeBee on that nice rack you have.

Jimmy

hannes83

Here is a pic for Jimmy - the Gee Bee is in the trailer




And now, I think it´s time for some other pics I hope you like it

hannes83

My favourites:

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks for the pics Hannes really nice set up...I noticed that the wires on the belly of the fuse are attached on a structure that I could not make out, what did you do in that area? I have been flying a lot since the weather has improved and have not put much time into the GeeBee build. However, I am planning on the flying wire construction next week and am compiling all ideas and reviewing the manual before starting. One question on the wires refers to the length. Are the listed lengths in the manual the lengths I want to cut the wire or is there another guide I should follow? I am going with the easier surface mount which doesnt require any hatches to be built. I am also using a 97% silver and 3% copper solder but dont know which flux to use. Any recommendations about solder type and brand of flux would be greatly appreciated, I want this to be done right the first time Thanks for any help GeeBee pros!!

Jimmy

carlb1120

Hannes

You have a great eye for detail.  I love everything that you have done with your trailer including the matching wheels.  The photos with the Gee Bee in the court yard at your house (?) are most impressive.   I know you bought and modified that trailer for a reason!   I can't wait to see the maiden flight videos.

Swinny

Hi Guys, I'm currently up to mounting the elevator servos into my GeeBee, and I'm wondering what other people have done. I notice in the manual it talks about making sure they are removable, but I'm concerned that if I use bolt and nuts to fasten the mounts in place it will crack or pull through the surface material.

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks Swinny, I got an email from Richard Gee and he recommended Stay Brite solder which can be purchased from towerhobbies and it comes with the flux I needed a couple of things anyway. Regarding the servo mounts, I have not read that far into the manual. Could it be that they are talking about the actual servo being removable? I will read it today a see what it is you are referring too. Ill be glad to get the wires finished

Jimmy

nexusdc5

My Feedback: (4)

Hey Everybody! F I N A L L Y !!!!!!!!! I get to start on my Gee Bee, I went out to the Painter 5 months ago But now look at it!!!! Totally worth the wait!!! It Is Pearl White and Metal Flake Red! And All the Lettering is all Air Brushed on. And If you will Notice, No Seams!!! Anywhere!!! Woo Hoo!!! Now I can Finally Mount my Moki!!..... Ill Keep you guys posted during my build!

n8622t

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Hannes, the dog is cool!!

Jimmy

40GeeBee

That fancy paint job is not going to make it fly any better!

n8622t

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Come on 40geebee you know these babies fly like trainers!!

nexusdc5

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lol... Your Absolutely Right 40GeeBee, I couldn't Agree with you more, BUT... It sure will Look great and Sound Awesome Flying by!

40GeeBee

Nexusdc5-where do you do your flying at? Mine was test flown at Madera, which they won't let us use any more, bummer

nexusdc5

My Feedback: (4)

Hey 40GeeBee, I used to fly out at Trabuco Canyon A Wile Back, I stopped flying there only because the Club became to political. Not to mention the People. So I moved on. Now Lately Ive been going out to Prado... In Chino. Its a huge field, All paved. They hold Events like Wings Over Chino and such. When my Gee Bee is finished, I'm going to apply to join that Club. Its Big enough, lots of space.

hannes83

Today I got a packet the pilot arrived:

nexusdc5

My Feedback: (4)

Hey Hannes, Your Pilot looks Great! Your stealing my Ideas!!! lol... There's a guy out here that if you Send him a photo of your head, 360 Degree view and he will Carve your head and Exact face out of a block of Wood. Ive seen his work. He will carve it to what ever scale you need it... Anyways.... Looks really nice Hannes.

FYI!!! This message is for anyone who intends on Using a Moki to fly you Gee Bee.... I was talking to Gotz from Areoscale and he just received two Engines back from Over heating Damage! And thes engines were flying the Gee Bee! They were flying at over 300 degrees when they failed, The Moki Needs to be Baffled and the Temp comes down to 150 degrees! Please heed this warning, it will save you lots of $$$. The space in the cowl is just to big to Allow sufficient Air to pass over the heads and cooling fins. If the Cowl was smaller then it wouldn't be a Problem. If you need more info, You can ask me or you can call Gotz at Areoscale and he will fill you in... They are ,making their own Baffle for the Moki and will start selling it in a few months... Its Very Good Insurance...

Vince...

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Hey Swinny, I looked at the elevator section and now see what you were referring to...how about drilling a small hole, say two mm to start, above the servo location, so that the allen wrench or screw driver can pass through the horizontal stab and reach the screws that hold the servos on the servo trays? Or, just mount the elevator servos on a cross plank behind flying wire former and use carbon fiber rods to make long elevator push rod? That is what I plan on doing. Hope this helps.

Jimmy

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Hey Hannes, not a bad likeness on the pilot Here is my little pilot

Swinny

Thanks Jimmy, Richard's manual says to make sure they are removable so you can change the servos, horns etc. Which is good advice, as they do wear out or need a lube every now and then. That's a good idea on the small holes, but I don't think the servo will clear the stab in order to take them out, which is why the servo mounts come with two hold predrilled in them so you could use a captive nut and bolt them from the outside. Then the whole servo and mount is removable.


I had thought about mounting them forward as you suggest, but was concerned about flutter as they are fairly large surfaces, and the less slack I can get the better I think.

Has anyone placed the servos forward? Care to share your experience?

Or has anyone used Richard's suggested method in the manual?

Cheers

Swinny

Hannes,

Could you post a photo of your elevator servo mounting solution? Would appreciate it.

You GeeBee looks amazing BTW, it will be hard to tell it from the real thing in the air!

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Im sure you will figure out something Swinny, flutter can be a real problem if there is any slack in the connection, thats why I always use a swivel link at the end attachments. The only slack that could exist with these would be in a cheap or under rated servo, or by using a pushrod that isnt stiff enough. Anyway, there are a variety of ways to do it, to each his own.

Jimmy

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Cut and soldered the flying wires yesterday...there definitely is no room for wrong measurement, if one is long the other end of the wire is too short! Definitely measure three times

Jimmy

40GeeBee

When i made my flying wires, I took brass tubing like a telescope and and you can slide them in and out and get the length
rite on.