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Old 11-18-2019, 06:35 AM
  #43776  
FlyerInOKC
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Originally Posted by Captcrunch44

if it has steel throttle arm you should start with that low speed flush if it has plastic the low-speed is an 8 inch below. That’s about the best place to start and a1/16 turn is a lot.
also when you Overhaul the engine did you overhaul the carburetor also the gasket on the high-speed needle gets dried out and the low-speed needle and those two combined will give you fits if they have a been replaced in a while
Cap, do you mean 1/8 inch?
Old 11-18-2019, 07:55 AM
  #43777  
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Helpful. Thank you. It is the metal arm on this 80. Does anyone have an answer in turns from closed based on experience?
Old 11-18-2019, 08:03 AM
  #43778  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Cap, do you mean 1/8 inch?
yup 1/8 inch.

Fixed it, boy one should not text and drive

Last edited by Captcrunch44; 11-18-2019 at 08:06 AM.
Old 11-18-2019, 08:04 AM
  #43779  
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Originally Posted by Hyjinx
Helpful. Thank you. It is the metal arm on this 80. Does anyone have an answer in turns from closed based on experience?
no I do not personal have a count. literally everybody starts with the low-end needle valve flush with the outside of the arm whatever turns that is and that is the best place to start you might have to turn it in maybe a half a turn
Old 11-18-2019, 03:43 PM
  #43780  
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Hyjinx, the more details you share about your poorly running engine the more accurate the responses will be. I'm sure it's something simple like Crunchy said. Could just be tuning too.
Old 11-18-2019, 04:46 PM
  #43781  
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I just ran my Saito 80
and it ran great. I started with the LS flush with the throttle arm and had to turn in the LS 1/2 a turn to get a good idle.
this is the 80 that had the shim under the cylinder that I didn’t put back in. Do to the test location now I need to find some in Incandescent lighting I tried switching out one of my lights with a LED and that didn’t work either Still showing the good old 360. So I was unable to get any tach reading’s. However on 30% nitro turning a 13-6 APC it ran and idled like a top.

Last edited by Captcrunch44; 11-18-2019 at 05:00 PM.
Old 11-18-2019, 05:29 PM
  #43782  
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Good job Crunchy, it's always a good feeling when rebuilds run right first time. I've had head scratchers on my last couple of Saito rebuilds. One had an intermittently leaky intake manifold and the other had some debris that kept the rear bearing from pressing in all the way. Before that it was problems with leaky valves on my two 45 engines. One leaked on the intake side and the other leaked on both sides.

Yesterday I was given an OS fs91s to fix that "wouldn't run right". Several club members had tried to tune it at the field with no success. They run better when the cam timing is correct. Heehee. Well the guy was so happy I fixed it that he handed me a box and said to keep what's inside. Dang, two more OS fs91s engines. Oh well, can't win them all.
Old 11-18-2019, 06:13 PM
  #43783  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Good job Crunchy, it's always a good feeling when rebuilds run right first time. I've had head scratchers on my last couple of Saito rebuilds. One had an intermittently leaky intake manifold and the other had some debris that kept the rear bearing from pressing in all the way. Before that it was problems with leaky valves on my two 45 engines. One leaked on the intake side and the other leaked on both sides.

Yesterday I was given an OS fs91s to fix that "wouldn't run right". Several club members had tried to tune it at the field with no success. They run better when the cam timing is correct. Heehee. Well the guy was so happy I fixed it that he handed me a box and said to keep what's inside. Dang, two more OS fs91s engines. Oh well, can't win them all.
that’s ok I have a few OS 90’s rear cam models I have them just because there neat. They really don’t have that much power
Old 11-18-2019, 06:40 PM
  #43784  
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His 91 surpass made very good power, more power than I expected really because my fa62 keeps up with my 70 surpass. Thing is I have no 60 size planes to hang a pig heavy OS 91 on, just 46 size planes and 50cc gassers. Hmmmm, I may need to fill a gap!
Old 11-18-2019, 06:52 PM
  #43785  
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Wondering if anyone knows if saito made two different versions of the Saito 60T I have two now and looking to get a third and the carb looks different and it is in a white saito box instead of the normal gold and black box I see.
Old 11-18-2019, 08:40 PM
  #43786  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
His 91 surpass made very good power, more power than I expected really because my fa62 keeps up with my 70 surpass. Thing is I have no 60 size planes to hang a pig heavy OS 91 on, just 46 size planes and 50cc gassers. Hmmmm, I may need to fill a gap!
Now that sounds like a plan!
Old 11-18-2019, 11:00 PM
  #43787  
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Originally Posted by Hyjinx
Hey All
I have a FA 80 that is giving me fits tuning after repairs
Does anyone know what the factory setting of the low speed needle is in turns, rather than depth in its receipt?
Ok you say you are trying to tune the engine after a repair. Start with the lsn somewhere flush with the throttle arm, it doesn't really matter as long as it's set slobbering rich and the hsn more than three turns out from fully closed. Now start the engine and keep it running around 4000rpm for a minute or two till it warms up then go to full throttle and wind the hsn in gradually (leaner) till you hit max rpm then leave that needle alone because NOW and only now can you set the lsn properly, you'll be chasing your tail all day long if you don't follow that procedure in that sequence. Your peak rpm will be around two turns out on the hsn, sometimes less, depends on tank position and how far away it is etc. Dave may still have a pic of how far in the little brass screw inside the throttle arm needs to be wound in afterwards, just saying that it's quite a lot and to set the lsn throttle back till the engine runs roughly and start winding the lsn screw in, pretty soon you'll hear a big rise in revs (keep throttling back) and the engine will smooth right out when you are close. Checking transition will let you fine tune it then you can go back to full throttle and richen 200rpm or so and go flying! and flying is always the easiest way to fine tune the engine. When your finished smile a lot and have a few beers, well done.

ps dave how is geri?

pps i hate getting run over on my ducati by texting drivers, all of whom i look forward to killing over and over in the next life

Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 11-19-2019 at 12:37 AM.
Old 11-19-2019, 03:23 AM
  #43788  
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I for got to show you my indoor test cell.
I got this idea from someone on Facebook the only thing I don’t like it sets Awful high put in the prop About chest high for me.
Old 11-19-2019, 03:43 AM
  #43789  
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Originally Posted by Captcrunch44
I for got to show you my indoor test cell.
I got this idea from someone on Facebook the only thing I don’t like it sets Awful high put in the prop About chest high for me.
Your tach problems can be solved by using a dc light? Maybe one of those led lanterns?
Does the exhaust ducting have a fan?

ps, I'm not sure there is any height that is safe if the engine spits a prop. Face, chest, belly or a little lower and well.....not so good either

Last edited by Glowgeek; 11-19-2019 at 03:46 AM.
Old 11-19-2019, 04:06 AM
  #43790  
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Originally Posted by Rudolph Hart
Ok you say you are trying to tune the engine after a repair. Start with the lsn somewhere flush with the throttle arm, it doesn't really matter as long as it's set slobbering rich and the hsn more than three turns out from fully closed. Now start the engine and keep it running around 4000rpm for a minute or two till it warms up then go to full throttle and wind the hsn in gradually (leaner) till you hit max rpm then leave that needle alone because NOW and only now can you set the lsn properly, you'll be chasing your tail all day long if you don't follow that procedure in that sequence. Your peak rpm will be around two turns out on the hsn, sometimes less, depends on tank position and how far away it is etc. Dave may still have a pic of how far in the little brass screw inside the throttle arm needs to be wound in afterwards, just saying that it's quite a lot and to set the lsn throttle back till the engine runs roughly and start winding the lsn screw in, pretty soon you'll hear a big rise in revs (keep throttling back) and the engine will smooth right out when you are close. Checking transition will let you fine tune it then you can go back to full throttle and richen 200rpm or so and go flying! and flying is always the easiest way to fine tune the engine. When your finished smile a lot and have a few beers, well done.

ps dave how is geri?

pps i hate getting run over on my ducati by texting drivers, all of whom i look forward to killing over and over in the next life
Thanks Pete, she's very frustrated right now, she has to lay with her legs level with or higher than her heart. We're seeing a circulatory Doc. at 9:30 am.

A good angle shot of the 80 ls needle. This engine has seen many planes, it has even flown inside a storm cloud for 5 minutes or so and came out dripping wet. You gotta do something that's extra fun now and then.
Old 11-19-2019, 04:18 AM
  #43791  
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Originally Posted by rowdog_14
Wondering if anyone knows if saito made two different versions of the Saito 60T I have two now and looking to get a third and the carb looks different and it is in a white saito box instead of the normal gold and black box I see.
Not much help, but the Horizon page still exists: https://www.horizonhobby.com/product...er:-p-saie060t
Old 11-19-2019, 04:44 AM
  #43792  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Your tach problems can be solved by using a dc light? Maybe one of those led lanterns?
Does the exhaust ducting have a fan?

ps, I'm not sure there is any height that is safe if the engine spits a prop. Face, chest, belly or a little lower and well.....not so good either
I was thinking about that I have a few 12v lights I will mount up.

yes the exhaust has a fan with varying RPMs. And depending on the engine the size of fan changes accordingly
Old 11-19-2019, 04:49 AM
  #43793  
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Originally Posted by Captcrunch44


I was thinking about that I have a few 12v lights I will mount up.

yes the exhaust has a fan with varying RPMs. And depending on the engine the size of fan changes accordingly
Nice. Be careful reaching for those needles. With no way to stand behind the prop it's gonna wanna get your arm!
Old 11-19-2019, 05:19 AM
  #43794  
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Originally Posted by rowdog_14
Wondering if anyone knows if saito made two different versions of the Saito 60T I have two now and looking to get a third and the carb looks different and it is in a white saito box instead of the normal gold and black box I see.

Want another one?

I am about 1/4 of the way thru selling off all my Saitos. There is a very nice one of those on the shelf to get rid of. PM me if you are interested, as it is headed for RCG Classifieds otherwise. Probably tonight or tomorrow.
Old 11-19-2019, 05:25 AM
  #43795  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Nice. Be careful reaching for those needles. With no way to stand behind the prop it's gonna wanna get your arm!
so far it’s ok but yes being carful. I did run a 120 in there and I didn’t like that so much I also didn’t do to much tuning on that one I just wanted to see it run.
Old 11-19-2019, 05:41 AM
  #43796  
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I get a kick out of the Youtube engine test experts. Setting fine safety examples by hanging around the fronts of running engines. Once started, I move to the backside.
Old 11-19-2019, 05:47 AM
  #43797  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Hyjinx, the more details you share about your poorly running engine the more accurate the responses will be. I'm sure it's something simple like Crunchy said. Could just be tuning too.
I appreciate all the kind help and have been blessed by those who have shared experience and collected knowledge.
in this case I was seeking a simple, specific answer to a individual question.
I followed my typical tuning routine on the engine yesterday at the field. It is running well. Found a
​​minor intake leak beyond the carb, contributing to the inconsistent running the day before.
Flew it on a Twist test bed last night and stuffed that sucker into the ground promptly!
Ran good though lol





​​​​​​all the help
Old 11-19-2019, 05:47 AM
  #43798  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
I get a kick out of the Youtube engine test experts. Setting fine safety examples by hanging around the fronts of running engines. Once started, I move to the backside.
Yep, I move to the back of the prop as soon as the engine starts. No reaching over or around the prop to remove the ignitor or tweak needles.

So why do I still take prop readings from the front while adjusting the hsn from the rear? It seems more ergonomically comfortable that way but I probably shouldn't do it that way.
Old 11-19-2019, 05:51 AM
  #43799  
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Sorry to hear that Hyjinx, those Twists are fun planes. Congrats on getting the engine right.
Old 11-19-2019, 05:56 AM
  #43800  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Sorry to hear that Hyjinx, those Twists are fun planes. Congrats on getting the engine right.
Engines are permanent. Airframes are temporary!
Love this hobby 😁


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