Welcome to Club SAITO !
#7576
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hey! I have a Saito 182 Twin in a Sig 1/4 Scale Spacewalker II . I need a good onboard glow system for it....It has a tendency to lose a cylender at idle...Anyone know of one that works good ?...I have been waiting for one that Sullavin makes to come out but they keep delaying production.
Also what kind of fuel is recomned for Saito Twin engines I have been useing Wildcat 20 20 in it.
I also have a Saito 80 in a Great Planes 46 U-CAN-DO and it runs great.
Thanks for any help.
Also what kind of fuel is recomned for Saito Twin engines I have been useing Wildcat 20 20 in it.
I also have a Saito 80 in a Great Planes 46 U-CAN-DO and it runs great.
Thanks for any help.
#7577
My Feedback: (16)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Electro Dynamics EDR-103 GLOWLITE glow driver $46
http://electrodynam.com/rc/EDR-103/index.shtml
The Wildcat 20-20 is good. I use Omega 15%.
http://electrodynam.com/rc/EDR-103/index.shtml
The Wildcat 20-20 is good. I use Omega 15%.
#7578
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have a old style 120 that has a problem. It has been running great and then at 1/2 throttle in the air it died. THe dead stick was uneventful. The engine sounded bad when I turned the prop so I took it home and pulled the cowling. The backplate was busted. The cylinder sleeve had beat the top out of the backplate. I pulled the sleeve out and it had a rough place inside at the bottom. The ring does not run this low but the piston would hang there and pull the cylinder sleeve down thus I assumed busting the backplate. I replaced the bearings, ring and backplate and honed the bad place from the bottom of the cylinder sleeve. Everything seemed smooth and as good as new so I started the engine. It idled great. After running the plane around on the ground for a few minutes it did the same thing again. The cylinder sleeve appears again to have been pulled down with the piston and busted the backplate. Any ideas?
#7580
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Are you saying the sleeve is normally not replaceable and is pressed into the cylinder in the 120? What is required to convert to a 120S? Am I looking at a new cylinder, piston, ring, valves, etc.?
#7582
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I certainly have a problem then because the sleeve slides right out. I'm not sure if is worth it to put a 120S cylinder on it. I feel sure I would also have to buy the adapter from the head to the carb since the 120 and the 120S have different size threads. And then add the new backplate and I am nearing $170. That is not including anything on the top end of the engine or the piston and new ring if needed. This thing may be a good paper weight now.
#7583
My Feedback: (16)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I had an old model 120 once that a fellow had put a 120S jug on it. It had the air bleed carb.
Don't know much about the engine for I gave it to William Robison.
I think you can use the old valves as long as you use the old springs, retainers, and keys?
There was the first 120S model that had a tubular intake but the current 120S is made just like your old style engine where the intake screws on with a compression nut.?
Don't know much about the engine for I gave it to William Robison.
I think you can use the old valves as long as you use the old springs, retainers, and keys?
There was the first 120S model that had a tubular intake but the current 120S is made just like your old style engine where the intake screws on with a compression nut.?
#7585
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
well i'm new the Saito's as well. i have a FA100 and was breaking in this weekend and noticed that on these 4 strokes there a always a ticking sound. is this a normal sound in these engines? i'm running it rich of course and it's running really well so far. swinging a 15x6 prop and stock muffler.
so far i'm so impressed with the sound of these little engines.
thanks
so far i'm so impressed with the sound of these little engines.
thanks
#7588
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Many thanks w8ye for your reply re the Saito FA-80 Gasket set. I have a couple of questions tho:
1. I think the little fat o-ring fits in behind the throttle spindle, and is a seal for the slow idle needle - please confirm?
2. With the intake manifold, is the order of the seal at the head end: Cylinder head, then rubber o-ring, then steel washer, then slide in manifold?
Also, I am planning to run a 16 x 6 prop on my Saito 120s... is this a good choice for prop size?
Cheers.
1. I think the little fat o-ring fits in behind the throttle spindle, and is a seal for the slow idle needle - please confirm?
2. With the intake manifold, is the order of the seal at the head end: Cylinder head, then rubber o-ring, then steel washer, then slide in manifold?
Also, I am planning to run a 16 x 6 prop on my Saito 120s... is this a good choice for prop size?
Cheers.
#7589
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
The ticking is normal
The ticking is normal
do you know what it is? con-rod, lifters,? i guess anytime i hear that kind of 'metal on metal' ticking i worry.
#7591
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: blw
swixtt- you are member #527
swixtt- you are member #527
here is my AT502 with the 100 in it! it's my first short-kit build and has taken since the fall to complete.
#7592
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
That looks really nice!
ORIGINAL: swixtt
cool thanks! i can't believe the amount of posts in this thread! and some people have an obscene amount of 4stroke motors! i envy that but maybe one day when i'm retired and am less able to ski and ride my bike i'll have a few more. they truely are an engine that i'll be seeking out for future aeroplanes!
here is my AT502 with the 100 in it! it's my first short-kit build and has taken since the fall to complete.
ORIGINAL: blw
swixtt- you are member #527
swixtt- you are member #527
here is my AT502 with the 100 in it! it's my first short-kit build and has taken since the fall to complete.
#7593
My Feedback: (16)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Lets hope that your Air Tractor meets a better fate than the original N9151C
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief2.asp?...04LA156&akey=1
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief2.asp?...04LA156&akey=1
#7594
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Tuning question. Saito 82, 13 x 8 APC, tuned per manual, idles at 2300 RPM, good transition to full power, 9600 RPM. If I let it run at full throttle for 10 / 15 seconds, throttle back and hold at idle, the RPM immediately drops to around 4000 and holds there for about 15 seconds, then the RPM drops back to 2300. I slightly richened the low end and now the idle comes down right away to 2300. When the low end is a bit too lean, why did the engine behave as it did?
Thanks
Al
Thanks
Al
#7595
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Al, I like to set the Saitos to idle well at an rpm slower than what I'm actually going to use in flight. At the slower idle its easier to tell if the mixture is set correctly, using 2,200 rpm as an example, they'll idle on a pretty poor setting at the higher idle rpm. At 1,800 or below they'll let you know instantly if the mixture is not good, by quitting or shaking, when the mixture is "dead on" they will idle smoothly no matter how slow you can get it to idle. This is a picture of my second Saito .62, both will idle forever below 2,000 rpm.
#7596
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I use to set my Saitos for the lowest possible idle but now I think it needs to be just a little rich for fuel flow on the high end and cooling during idle. The low needle can restrict fuel flow on the high side. I have run both ways and didn't see any issues either way, just my prefference to run rich. Some people don't believe this and say it only waste fuel but It only makes sense that there isn't any harm to just be a tad rich but not a tad lean. Running rich can make an engine last for years, running lean shortens the lifespan and causes problems.
#7597
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi, guys. Pretty much new to Saito (and 4 cycle) engines and new to this forum, but a long-time modeler and RCer. I have had a Saito 56 that I've used off and on for the past few years with no problems. However, I'm trying to break in a new Saito 150 on the stand and it's driving me nuts.
I ran 2 and a half 13 oz tanks through it, very rich, w/ no problems. Byron 15% nitro, 15x8 prop -- both on recommendation of Horizon support. Idled down well, and tached right at 3800-4000 pretty much full open. But now I can't get it to start. Tried several times over the past few days. I use an electric starter, and a 3" spinner for breakin purposes. Now all that happens when I hit it with the starter is a "pop" and the prop spins free because the prop nut(s) have loosened. And I have them on there as tight as I can get them! Then take the spinner off, tighten everything up, hit the starter, "pop", prop loose again. Repeat the above. About the third time this happens I use some strong language. I have made sure that the idle screw even with the top of its housing, but the result is the same.
I'm sorry if this repeating stuff on here before, but I sure could use some suggestions/help! I'm really frustrated, and my 1/5 Waco is waiting for its maiden!! And I have a couple of other large Saitos awaiting breakin as well.
Or in the alternative, anyone want to buy the aforementioned 150, and two NIB 180s? I'll go back to OS 160 2-cycles! LOL
Thanks
Al
I ran 2 and a half 13 oz tanks through it, very rich, w/ no problems. Byron 15% nitro, 15x8 prop -- both on recommendation of Horizon support. Idled down well, and tached right at 3800-4000 pretty much full open. But now I can't get it to start. Tried several times over the past few days. I use an electric starter, and a 3" spinner for breakin purposes. Now all that happens when I hit it with the starter is a "pop" and the prop spins free because the prop nut(s) have loosened. And I have them on there as tight as I can get them! Then take the spinner off, tighten everything up, hit the starter, "pop", prop loose again. Repeat the above. About the third time this happens I use some strong language. I have made sure that the idle screw even with the top of its housing, but the result is the same.
I'm sorry if this repeating stuff on here before, but I sure could use some suggestions/help! I'm really frustrated, and my 1/5 Waco is waiting for its maiden!! And I have a couple of other large Saitos awaiting breakin as well.
Or in the alternative, anyone want to buy the aforementioned 150, and two NIB 180s? I'll go back to OS 160 2-cycles! LOL
Thanks
Al
#7598
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
You are too rich, especially now that the engine has been run. Turn in the idle screw one or two full turns and try to start it again.
It is throwing the prop because it is backfiring due to being overprimed, probably because it is too rich.
If you opened the throttle 100% and only got 4000 RPM then your highspeed was super rich as well. While you want to be rich for break-in, I'm not sure being that rich is necessary.
It is throwing the prop because it is backfiring due to being overprimed, probably because it is too rich.
If you opened the throttle 100% and only got 4000 RPM then your highspeed was super rich as well. While you want to be rich for break-in, I'm not sure being that rich is necessary.
ORIGINAL: mobyal
Hi, guys. Pretty much new to Saito (and 4 cycle) engines and new to this forum, but a long-time modeler and RCer. I have had a Saito 56 that I've used off and on for the past few years with no problems. However, I'm trying to break in a new Saito 150 on the stand and it's driving me nuts.
I ran 2 and a half 13 oz tanks through it, very rich, w/ no problems. Byron 15% nitro, 15x8 prop -- both on recommendation of Horizon support. Idled down well, and tached right at 3800-4000 pretty much full open. But now I can't get it to start. Tried several times over the past few days. I use an electric starter, and a 3" spinner for breakin purposes. Now all that happens when I hit it with the starter is a "pop" and the prop spins free because the prop nut(s) have loosened. And I have them on there as tight as I can get them! Then take the spinner off, tighten everything up, hit the starter, "pop", prop loose again. Repeat the above. About the third time this happens I use some strong language. I have made sure that the idle screw even with the top of its housing, but the result is the same.
I'm sorry if this repeating stuff on here before, but I sure could use some suggestions/help! I'm really frustrated, and my 1/5 Waco is waiting for its maiden!! And I have a couple of other large Saitos awaiting breakin as well.
Or in the alternative, anyone want to buy the aforementioned 150, and two NIB 180s? I'll go back to OS 160 2-cycles! LOL
Thanks
Al
Hi, guys. Pretty much new to Saito (and 4 cycle) engines and new to this forum, but a long-time modeler and RCer. I have had a Saito 56 that I've used off and on for the past few years with no problems. However, I'm trying to break in a new Saito 150 on the stand and it's driving me nuts.
I ran 2 and a half 13 oz tanks through it, very rich, w/ no problems. Byron 15% nitro, 15x8 prop -- both on recommendation of Horizon support. Idled down well, and tached right at 3800-4000 pretty much full open. But now I can't get it to start. Tried several times over the past few days. I use an electric starter, and a 3" spinner for breakin purposes. Now all that happens when I hit it with the starter is a "pop" and the prop spins free because the prop nut(s) have loosened. And I have them on there as tight as I can get them! Then take the spinner off, tighten everything up, hit the starter, "pop", prop loose again. Repeat the above. About the third time this happens I use some strong language. I have made sure that the idle screw even with the top of its housing, but the result is the same.
I'm sorry if this repeating stuff on here before, but I sure could use some suggestions/help! I'm really frustrated, and my 1/5 Waco is waiting for its maiden!! And I have a couple of other large Saitos awaiting breakin as well.
Or in the alternative, anyone want to buy the aforementioned 150, and two NIB 180s? I'll go back to OS 160 2-cycles! LOL
Thanks
Al
#7599
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Al,
I agree withRVM, but I would pull the plug and turn it over several times to clear the cylinder. You may be experiencing a hydraulic lock with all that fuel.
Jim
I agree withRVM, but I would pull the plug and turn it over several times to clear the cylinder. You may be experiencing a hydraulic lock with all that fuel.
Jim
#7600
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Jim, the TurboHeader with the baffle is a keeper for the 1.50, great sound, deep and strong sounding but not loud, about a 150 rpm gain over the newer cast muffler and just about 200 over the original fire hose nozzle muffler as the earlier muffler was affectionately called. I'll set it up for my UltraStick Lite 1.20 and get pics.