w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Often the bearings are bad in a used engine.

Feel for roughness when turning the crank. Listen for noise?

Ken6PPC

I kinda like Saito 82 engines. I have three of them!

Depending upon how much ground clearance you have, try either a 15x4, 14x4W, 14x6, or a 13x8.

You will get more top speed with the higher pitch props, but more power to pull out of a hover with the larger diameter, lower pitch props. Your flying style will dictate which you prefer, and there really isn't a bad choice out of those four.

Like w8ye said, be sure to check the bearings carefully. If the previous owner didn't store it properly, they may be rusted. Rotate it slowly with the glow plug out, to check for any resistance, roughness, or hesitation. (Don't mistake the valves opening and closing for a sign of bad bearings.) Push the prop shaft side to side to check for play. You shouldn't feel any side to side play.

However, if you DO find that you need to change the bearings, don't get discouraged. It isn't tough to change them, and they aren't terribly expensive either if you buy them from RC Bearing.

[link=http://tinyurl.com/yreudg]Saito 82 Steel Bearings from RC Bearing[/link]

blw

My Feedback: (3)

clbrown7309- you are club member #561. I sure hope you upload pics of your B-17 when you are building it. That sounds like a great project.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I just ran the new Saito .40a and took some comparo pics. of it and the old FA .40, there is very little difference in performance with the .40a turning the Bolly 10.5x6 at 10,550 peaked. I guess this is an excersize in futility since Horizon has dropped the .40a and the .30. The pics. show there is quite a difference in physical size and the .40a has the new crankcase like the 2.20 and the 1.00.

jessiej

I have a 40a which runs very well. I had not realised it was that much smaller than the older 40.

jess

rexracer

Wow! that really is quite the size difference. I must say that I'm impressed with the power of these small engines. It looks like that .45 would give some .40 2 strokers a run for their money. The new 56 might even out perform most .40 2s.

vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

If anyone else could confirm this on the saito 220. My scale reads 1077g.saito lists 1100g engine only.
the exhust nipple is 38g.
if my scale is right, the 220 is almost 1 once lighter then what they say.

mango12

Hi All,
I recently aquired a Saito 300T, used, on ignition. Could someone tell me what the recommended prop size is for this engine? Thanks in advance.
Scott

mono wing

sport 18x10 20x8 20x10 20x12 22x8 22x10
scale 20x8 20x10 22x8 22x10 24x8

RPM's 2,00 to 5,000

All info right out of the book hope this helps.

mono wing

mango here is a link for a manual

http://h1071118.hobbyshopnow.com/Pro...oke_Manual.pdf

maybe this will give you any info that you need

JAkridge

Is the Saito 125a and the Saito 100 the same engine case? I want to use the Keleo P-51 Scale Muffler they have for the 100 engine but I'm not sure it will fit the 125a case.
Thanks for any help.

Ken6PPC

The crankcases for the Saito 100 and 125 are NOT the same. They are very close, but different.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAI10015

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI125A15

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The exhaust is larger on the 125

Hibrass

My Feedback: (1)

Connecting Rod question...

I have been going over a recently crashed 150 of mine. I thought I might need to change the bearings. But after taking the jug and piston off the crank bearing seem perfect. (They seemed fine assembled.) Now this motor does run and before I disassembled it, it would turn an APC 16.5x5 at 9300RPM but would fall on its face with a Xoar 17x6 (No more than 8300.)

Anyway I reassembled the engine and brought the Piston up to TDC with out the plug. Using a allen wrench to feel the piston, I feel some rotational play at the crank without the piston moving at TDC? I can't tell is the slop is at the top of the Connecting Rod or the Bottom.. But the bottom does seem lose...

Should I consider replacing the Conn Rod???

Thanks,

Ed

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The slop at the top is normal. There is clearance on the rod. When at top dead center it takes considerable rotation to take up the normal clearance of the rod.

The Zoar is too much prop. 8300 rpm is about right for this combination.

Hibrass

My Feedback: (1)

w8ye,

Thanks for the feedback...! I will just put it back in operation and stay with the APC prop.

What RPM would you expect a 180 to get with the Xoar 17x6?

Ed

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I don't own a 180. I just have a 150

Hibrass

My Feedback: (1)

No Problem..

Ed

Ken6PPC

Yeah, that too!

s_moorman

I own a saito 72 and 180. I have two questions.

In regards to the 180, what is the best prop to use during break in?

In regards to the 72, I have about 2.5 gallons of fuel through it and it runs great except for the top end. I originally started with a 12x8 3 blade but couldn't get more than 8800 RPM's. I swapped to a 12x6 3 blade and got to 10,300 with it richened to 10,000 for flying. It flew well but the engine was constantly "surging" at full throttle. I swapped to a 13x6 two blade and then a 13x8 two blade. THe engine continued to surge with each one. I failed to record the RPM's with the 13x6 but I only got 9100 with the 13x8. I don't mind the lower RPM's but I'm tired of the surge. I put a 11x7 three blade on it and once the engine crossed 11,000 RPM's the surging stopped and it runs fine but it will obviously exceed RPM limits flying based on that static setting.

I run Cool Power 15%. Any suggestions?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The rpm's you have shared with us on the 72 using different props are in the ball park for this engine.

BLW and I have both fought with the surging at times with different engines. We managed to eventually tune it out. Seemed to be lean when surging than not. The 12-6 three blade and 13-6 two blades are the props I always ran on the 72.

I do not own a 180

JAkridge

When you say "The Exhaust is Bigger" w8ye, that must mean the exhaust outlet???? I did some searching and it looks like the 100 has a 12mm outlet and the 125a has a 13mm outlet.
Thanks for the help.

vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

can you stop the engine by opening the needle valve if you cant the problem is dirt somwhere in the carb.
next thing check all the way to the clunk and the muffler for leaks.
make sure there is no air leaks in the carb system.
ie put side presure on the needle when it runs.... if the rpms start to move you have a air leak.
but b4 you do any of this steal a tank of fuel from your buddy at the field.. of course make sure his engine is running good first.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

JUZ,

That is correct on the sizes

s_moorman

Apparently I have an air leak then because when I put pressure on the high speed adjustment, the RPM increases. How do I fix this?