ORIGINAL: AmishWarlord

rrengineer, the video is just something for the engine lovers that can just watch an engine idling for 5 mins.

I didn't plan for it to be a ''how to break in'' video.

That video is made from 5 mins of an hours worth of running.

I did learn some things.

I need to install diagonal braces to keep the brackets from vibrating on the stand.

I'm thinking about getting a child's wagon and filling it with concrete and an imbedded steel eye bolt.

I then could use a ratchet strap to pull the wagon up and lock the stand down into the ground.

The stand weighs 30 pounds and that engine can only put out 20 pounds but it was still starting to tip the stand over.

I had read about that Y connector problem but forgot about it.

It's true that left just is a fuel hog and starves the right jug.

I think I'd go with two separate fuel tanks rather than two pick up lines in one tank.

The video is a fuzzy HD 740 but I filmed it in 1080 full HD.

I'm trying to load the full HD video but Youtube is taking 4 hours to upload and my laptop keeps dropping connection during that time.

I think 4 hours to upload is ridiculous for a 5 minute video! It should take 45 secounds! I feel like I'm back in the days of dial-up.

ORIGINAL: earlwb

I think the Enya VT-240 has a sound reminiscent of a radial engine running. So they do sound really great.

ORIGINAL: Ram Jet

Now to call RC Bearings tomorrow.

Cheers,
Bill

ORIGINAL: AmishWarlord


Then scream, ''Are you kidding me? I could have just bought a NIB engine off ebay for that much''!

ORIGINAL: Sport_Pilot

I have never seen a camshaft bearing go bad.

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Thats good to know, Bill. I'll make a note of that if/when I have to replace the bearings in my 60-4C. I found another bearing joint on the internet, AvidRC.com. These guys sell a huge assortment of bearings, all for $1 each. I bought a bunch of their bearings for my RC cars axles and transmissions, and so far they seem smooth and work well. I dont know if they carry engine bearings or not. I'll have to look into it.

Since I'm thinking about it, I have to ask the Enya folks here... My 60-4C has about a gallon through it now, tried several different glow plugs. I can get satisfactory performance from it, but it will not transition smoothly from idle. Either its lean and cuts out slightly on transition, or its burpy and smokey and transition is slow. Sounds as though its going to quit. If I set it between these two ''extremes'' it will still burp and gurgle. Will this engine ever transition smoothly? I've read a number of articles and reviews of this engine when it came out (the last article was a review by Peter Chinn) and they've all said that these engines ran well, transitioned good, and ran on straight FAI fuel for break-in.

I've tried several plugs, OS F, Fox Idlebar, Fox Miracle, McCoy 59. Fuel I've tried is 5% nitro / 20% castor, 15% nitro / 18% oil (80/20) byrons gen2, 20% nitro / 20% oil (50/50 cas/klotz). Props I've ran are 12x6 and 13x6 APC, both fully balanced (blades and hub). On the 12x6 it transitions rich, but it sounds better than when running on the 13x6. After revving up and back down to idle, it hangs a high idle for a moment, then drops to the burbly rich idle it seems to like. If you try throttling it before this ''high idle'' drops, it cuts out. I have the engine idling between 2700-3000rpm per the Enya instruction leaflet. The airbleed is about 2/3 closed, and to get it to idle at this setting, the throttle barrel is open about 1/4-1/3 of its travel. Any thoughts? Am I beating a dead horse expecting a relatively smooth transition? I expect some burbles, but the other day while running the engine it quit on me in an inconvenient spot. I've been running it about 300rpm rich of peak RPM.

ORIGINAL: AmishWarlord

Na, just see those bearings on eBay when looking for engines. Saw a set for the Super Tigre G-45 for $80 a new G-45 is only $75!

ORIGINAL: Ram Jet



I wish I could give you some advice. I have a brand new, never run Enya 1.55 that I just put a Bowman ring in and a .46. I have yet to run either. I don't have an application for either engine but I'm looking forward to breaking them in on a test stand anyway. I have them because I love Enyas and I got both for a song. I think that I might consider installing a Perry carb if the throttle transition annoyed me enough. I know you care about your little .60 because you've put a-lot of time into it. The are some real sharp 4 cycle Enya guys on this site that can probably chime-in on this issue.

I admire your determination to get the .60 ''right'' Stay with it and maybe I'll learn something to.

Cheers,
Bill

ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

Well, I've been running it on an airboat lately, and after some extra test stand time, I had it running really well despite the slow burbly transition. I chocked it up to still breaking in, as it is still doing now I believe. It runs fine on the top end, and it idles nice and low. Watching the prop momentarily stop at 1400rpm is neat. If I kept the plug lit, I could probably get it to idle down to 1200 or less. This is not the objective though. I more or less wanted to know if the .60 (and consequently the .80) will transition smoothly after it has enough time on it. I'm happy with the engine, and I'm fine burbling it at idle... I would like to see it transition a little better. I'm probably chasing my tail on this one, but based on those articles I read, This engine should transition better than it is. I have some videos of the airboat running with the Enya on it, and in one of them you can hear it cut out a little here and there, which was me getting back on the throttle before the idle dropped to the burble. The idle hangs 500-600rpm higher than the burbly idle for 2-3 seconds before dropping to the real idle speed. This tells me the idle is too rich, but any leaner and it cuts out on transition.. I'll get it.. It might involve getting my hands on some Enya #3 plugs, which is what plug they used in the Review article. I'd be bothered if it only runs ''great'' on Enya plugs and ''OK'' on anything else. It prefers Fox long idlebar plugs, but does okay on OS F plugs too. The way this engine transitions, I would not trust it in a plane.

I'm going to go outside and run it a little, I have another new glow plug to test in it - a McCoy MC4C. I have a few other props to test, of which I'll post in my tach thread.

ORIGINAL: Ram Jet



I was going to suggest the Enya #3 plug to you. Over the years I have read over and over again on this forum that the #3 is what two and four cycle Enyas like. Myself i don't mind buying Enya plugs regardless of the cost. Why, because the poor SOBs at Enya have never gotten a dime from me. I bought my .09, 2-.19s, .40BB, .46, 1.55 all on eBay. I feel a-little guilty. Especially when I contacted Ken Enya yesterday and asked for the PDFs of the specs and instruction shetts for my .46 and 1.55. They were in my E-mail box inside of two hours. Great support from a great company and I buy my engines on eBay. I hang my head. Buy the GD #3s from Enya direct. They are great plugs and how much effort have you put into your engines thus far? What's a couple of bucks for what I think are the finest model engines you can buy?

Cheers,
Bill

ORIGINAL: rrengineer

Enya makes a four cycle plug now...