Warning

My Feedback: (5)

Hey Everyone . . .

For the first time in a while I am on my own for tuning my own engines . . . and a few days ago I thought I had my .46 OS FX glow engine tuned right but apparently not it died of landing and caused a [:@] . . . and I don’t want that to occur again . . . any tips so I don’t mess up again . . ..


Thanks for all of your help!

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

Go search the engines forum. Tons of tips already there.

In the mean time, change the glow plug. A properly tuned engine requires a good glow plug.

If your fuel is old or been stored in a non-airtight container for a while, replace it.

Start the engine. Adjust the high speed needle using a tachometer to 300-500 rpm below peak on the rich side.

Adjust your idle speed using the throttle trim on the transmitter to get your lowest RELIABLE idle.

Let the engine run at idle for about 30 seconds, then listen carefully as you punch the throttle to full. If the engine hesitates and then runs up to full speed, the low end idle is slightly rich. Lean out the low end needle 1/8 turn. If the engine hesitates and dies or just dies, the low end is probably lean. Richen the low end needle 1/8 turn.

Restart the engine, readjust the high end needle (this is vital), then repeat the entire test. Do this until you achieve a reliable idle around or below 3000 rpm, and the engine transitions smoothly to full throttle.

You'll also find that as the tuning improves, so does starting. A well tuned engine can often be started with just a quick backward flip of the prop-nut or spinner.

Good luck!

Brad

jaka

Hi!
Are you sure you are running a 11x6 prop (APC )and a Enya 3 or OS 8 glowplug and that the fuel is fresh and contains no more than 15% nitro (5% is perfectly enough) ???

Regards!
Jan K

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

Heres the extreme basics. Tune the engine as best you think it is. Then check to see if it's any good. Let the engine idle. While its at an idle either remove the fuel line from the carb or pinch it until the engine quits running. As the engine quits listen to the rpms. If the rpms increase as the engine quits,low end is to rich. If the rpms just go down and quit, low end too lean. I set mine for a very slight increase.

Now each time you do this, re adjust the high end to bring it all together, your engine should be tuned pefectly with this

Julian537

My Feedback: (9)

Cyclic is correct. I tune all of my motors with the pinch method.
I also pinch the fuel line on the high end. Tune it so when I pinch the high end, the motor accelerates a bit. if it does not accelerate, the high end is to lean. Use a tach for perfection. Some motors with a pipe are hard to hear the change in RPM.

Cyclic Hardover

My Feedback: (3)

Thing is if you do it right the first time, you should not have to mess with the low end again, like for whatever season your in. Now the high end is a daily deal. I have not lost a plane or had an engine quit on me in a few years due to tuning. I may proclaim myself to be an excellent engine tuner but I am just as prone to stupid crap happening as the next guy. Fuel tanks splitting, mufflers coming loose , blowing plugs and the rest of it.

Whenever this happens, engine tuning is last on my thing's to check out.